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Dodge Daytona Iroc (red)

The Dodge Daytona and Chrysler Laser

1969-70 Dodge Charger Daytona | 2006+ Dodge Charger Daytona

daytona row

General Dodge Daytona history

The Daytona first debuted from Dodge in 1984 along with its look alike, the Chrysler Laser. Design was based mostly on the K-cars (Reliant and Aries), and retained the fuel efficient 2.2 liter 4 cylinder engine. The Daytona was mounted on an extended K-frame and had front wheel drive. The Daytona has always been a 3 door 4 seater, but the rear seats are very small and it should really be considered a 2 seater for all practical purposes, with its small 97" wheel base. These cars are known as 'G' cars because their body style was designated G (later, AG).

Pre-production Daytonas circa 1985

Stock performance with the 2.2 was not up to the Daytona’s looks, but it was produced as an economy car and Dodge relied on the turbo versions and sporty looks to attract younger drivers; few automakers made a fast, affordable sporty car at the time. The Laser was aimed at older drivers who appreciated a plusher vehicle, and with luxury options. In both cases the five-speed stick-shift provided a substantail speed and gas mileage boost. As Dodge pointed out, the Daytona was the first American-made front-drive sports car with a turbocharged engine.

These were also some of the first cars to really make use of computer aided design technology (CAD).

Dodge DaytonaThe car first debuted as the prototype G-24 Super Sports Car in 1982-83.  If you look real close and squint a little you can see remnants of body styling from the 1969 Charger Daytona that swept NASCAR.

The original Daytona models had a length of 175 inches on a 97 inch wheelbase, a width of 69 inches, and a height of 50 inches.

In October 1982, Motor Trend wrote that the 1984 "Chrysler G-24" would have four bucket seats, be a hatchback, and stand on the K-car platform but share no body panels with any other Chrysler product. They noted the fuel-injected 2.2 as the base engine, saying there would be an optional turbo 2.2, but spent more time on the interior, "definitely sportier" than other Chrysler vehicles, with "restyled analog instruments and a few digital items." (Thanks, NDNRacer)

1990 dodge daytona

What might have been

Lotus’ Michael Royce wrote that Lotus Engineering had been contracted (in 1985) to engineer not only the Turbo III variant of the 2.2 liter engine (used in the Daytona R/T), but also a naturally aspirated 16 valve 2.5 liter engine and a four wheel drive Daytona Turbo.

In the fall of 1986, the 2.5L NA Program was cancelled due to engineering budget constraints. The unusual combination of a long stroke (104 mm) with the 16 valve head fixed the 2.5L's breathing problems, and gave a nice smooth engine that would rev easily up to about 7500 rpm. It gave about the same performance in a vehicle as a Turbo I.

The 4WD G-24 program was cancelled in November 1987, again due to budget constraints, just as we were getting the car to perform and handle as well as the Audi Quattro, the target vehicle. John Miles, from Lotus, was leading the chassis development.

Bob O’Neill noted that the side louvers were made of ABS plastic, while the rear deck louvers were powder-coated aluminum (his own 1986 Turbo Z with T-tops came with the rear louvers, but not the side louvers).


Relevant Allpar links

2.2 / 2.5 TBI engine | 2.2/2.5 turbo engine | 3.0 V6 | Daytona forum | EEK family
2.2/2.5 TBI modifications | Links

Year by year Dodge Daytona history

1984
Daytona, Daytona Turbo, Daytona Turbo Z, Laser, Laser XE, Laser XT
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1)

1984 dodge daytona turbo z

1985
Daytona, Daytona Turbo, Daytona Turbo Z, Laser, Laser XE, Laser XT
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1)

1985 laser

1986
Daytona, Daytona Turbo Z (w/wo C/S package), Laser, Laser XE, Laser XT
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 146hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  2.5 Liter 96hp 4 cyl
1987
Daytona, Daytona Shelby, Daytona Pacifica
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl  
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  2.5 Liter 96hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter Intercooled 174hp 4cyl (Turbo II)
 
1988
Daytona, Daytona Shelby Z, Daytona Pacifica
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl  
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  2.5 Liter 96hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter Intercooled 174hp 4cyl (Turbo II)
 
1989
Daytona, Daytona ES (w/wo Turbo), Daytona Shelby
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl  
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  2.5 Liter 100hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter Intercooled 174hp 4cyl (Turbo II) 
5.  Turbocharged 2.5 Liter 150hp 4cyl (Turbo 1)

1989 dodge daytona

1990
Daytona, Daytona ES (w/wo Turbo), Daytona Shelby
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.2 Liter 93hp 4cyl  
2.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 142hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  2.5 Liter 100hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter Intercooled 174hp 4cyl (Turbo II) 
5.  Turbocharged 2.5 Liter 152hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
6.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter VNT 174hp 4cyl (Turbo IV) 
7.  3.0 Liter 141hp SOHC V6
 

1991
Daytona, Daytona ES (w/wo Turbo), Daytona Shelby, Daytona IROC
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.5 Liter 100hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.5 Liter 152hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  3.0 Liter 141hp SOHC V6
 

1992
Daytona, Daytona ES (w/wo Turbo), Daytona IROC, Daytona IROC R/T
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.5 Liter 100hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.5 Liter 152hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  3.0 Liter 141hp SOHC V6 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 224hp 4cyl (Turbo III)
 

1993
Daytona, Daytona ES (w/wo Turbo), Daytona IROC, Daytona IROC R/T
Engines Offered:  
1.  2.5 Liter 100hp 4 cyl (Base Production Engine) 
2.  Turbocharged 2.5 Liter 152hp 4cyl (Turbo 1) 
3.  3.0 Liter 141hp SOHC V6 
4.  Turbocharged 2.2 Liter 224hp 4cyl (Turbo III)
 


Dodge Daytona handling

Typical front wheel drive handling problems (torque steer, understeer) were countered with better than average success. The stiffer suspension assemblies in the C/S and Shelby editions were a large improvement. If you can locate these as parts cars, they are a real find.

The rigid rear axle means that at higher speeds the rear end will tend to become very light and hard to control (about 61/39 weight distribution depending on engine). The frame of the Daytona was never updated from 1984 and rigidity should be increased by owners with improvements later on this page. Steering is overall quite good, and the later version of the steering was used in the development of the Prowler.

[Added by webmaster] Bob O'Neil wrote: "Energy Suspensions offer urethane bushings for the Daytona as well as other cars. These are very low cost."

[Added by webmaster] Stefan P. Mullikin wrote this guide to Shelby Daytona springs and EEK / Daytona suspensions in general:

The front Konis have adjustment settings accessible from the top with a small screw driver. The rear unfortunately are only adjustable by compressing the strut and turning the housing. Generally I find that you don't need to adjust them very much as the middle setting seems pretty good all around. For track days and the like, just adjust them up while you're performing the typical routine maintenance one would do before hitting the track (checking for loose items, broken wiring, leaks, bleeding brakes, changing oil, etc)

You can probably "fix" the height difference front to rear with some spacers on the rear springs. Not ideal, but easier than adding jack screws to the rear perches (similar to NASCAR racers since their spring setup is similar to ours as its separate from the shock)

The Shadows, Daytonas, Lebarons, Lancers, etc share their suspension with the K-car so they can all use the same struts, springs, sway bars, cross members, etc. So the spring's measurements should be similar. The differences being free length and wire diameter (which determines height and stiffness) If you search the archives you'll might find the actual rates of the Eibach spring kits. I do know that the Shadow kit has a higher rate spring (280lb/in on the front if I remember correctly) Not sure of the free length difference between the two of them.

Independent rear suspension for the K-car would be plausible, but the gains would be unknown as the real issue is really with the front. Horrible camber curves, binding sway bars and control arm bushings, bump steer, lots of soft rubber to eliminate any hope of maintaining what little geometry you have, etc. The later model k-members help alleviate some of that, but it's still a strut front end and it will always have that as its main Achilles heal.

The best things you can do is to eliminate the bump steer with rack spacers. Reduce the sway bar's binding by either running a Quickor end link bar (better but not perfect) or running a custom unit that is mounted to the front core support. The idea is that the sway bar is only active during chassis roll, not during bounce or rebound (i.e. it would be nice to be able to move the control arms by hand with or without the sway bar attached)

Once the above has been done, the car won't pull much more lateral grip than before, but it will be much more repeatable. So when you turn into a corner, you should be able to the set the wheel into position and assuming you're driving relatively well you shouldn't move the wheel until you exit. Stock, you typically have to adjust the wheel a little while the suspension compresses. This makes predicting how quickly you can go through some corners difficult because they may have bumps in them that upset the suspension (and therefore the driver, heh).

On the rear the issues are typical trailing arm/solid axle issues. It's very similar to the rear suspension under a NASCAR vehicle only we don't have power transmitting through it so that eliminates that issue (at least its not as bad as a stock Mustang rear suspension) Specifically the change in wheel base as the suspension moves up and down among others. Chrysler also adds a neat element where the rear locating bar moves the suspension laterally as the trailing arm moves up and down. Sort of a rear steer solution only it works when you compress enough of the stock soft rubber bushings and flexible rear arm to make a noticeable difference. Since it's also a solid axle setup the standard solid axle solutions apply quite nicely. Watts linkage, mumford links, etc. Specifically look at some of the solutions that the Lotus Super Seven clone builders are implementing.

If you have your heart set on independent rear suspension, I'd look at a De Dion solution (modified solid axle setup, used on some Alfa Romeo's, etc.) that would probably be a little easier to implement since it shouldn't take up much more room than the stock rear axle solution. Next up would be to troll the local U-Pull-it type yards with a tape measure and find a suitable candidate. A completely removable sub frame would be easier to work with (Miatas and 2nd gen RX-7s come to mind) along with similar rear track and control arm length to the front suspension would help keep both ends working together. Though Bill Cultitta mentioned that the Stratus rear suspension would be a good solution since it's a little beefier than the Neon pieces and it should be 5x100.

Recalls

The latest recall information is at your local Dodge dealer. Or go to the National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration's web page.  Here are the notices I know of:

1984: Hood latch system has integrity problems. Hood may open while in motion.

1985:

1986:

1987: Fuel leakage may occur in low ambient temperature operation at connections of an engine aompartment fuel supply hose to the pressure regulator.

1989:

1990:

1991:

1992:

1993: The welding attachments of the front frame rails to the floor pan sheet metal may not be properly welded.


Performance upgrades

Typical path to upgrading your front wheel Drive Mopar:

Dodge Daytona orange from back1. General Tune Up: Engine, Tranny, and Suspension. DO THIS BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE! Grab your owner's manual and look up what routine maintenance needs to be performed on your vehicle based on its mileage. So many people dump hundreds of dollars into 'performance' upgrades, and neglect the fact that the car has bald tires, the timing is off, and the struts are shot.

2. Increase Air flow: Your engine runs on air and gasoline. The general rule of thumb is if you can get more these into and out of the engine faster then you will get more performance (of course there are exceptions). High flow exhaust, intake, headers, carbs/throttle body, air cleaner, new/bigger turbo.

3. Increase Spark: Performance igniton/spark control, Hi flow plug wires, good plugs, new/clean distributor, inspect charging system.

4. Increase Fuel Intake: Performance fuel pump, Carbs (jets), Performance fuel injectors, Hi-flow fuel filter.

**Note: All of these things can be done without tearing down the engine. Each one makes a good weekend project. After you have considered them all, then think about internal engine upgrades like cams, pistons, and a general overhaul.**

**Note:  Thinking Big Block?  Mopar Performance makes a rear wheel drive conversion kit (Part #P4529533) and 4.5" bolt circle steering knuckle kit (Part #P4529329).  Good Luck!

Turbo Engine Rebuild/Upgrade

Part Sources

2.2 and 2.5 carbureted and fuel injected Engine Upgrades

Allpar has a page dedicated to the 2.2/2.5 TBI and another to 2.5 Specs.

Your number one source for performance engine upgrades should be Mopar Performance. Their catalog is available from most Dodge dealers for $5. They have an extensive inventory of 2.2 performance engine computers, heads, cams, turbos and accessories far too large to get into here. The also have a great book called "2.2/2.5 FWD Speed Secrets and Racing Modifications." If you have a 2.2 or 2.5, get the book, it's the bible on performance engine parts.

Your second source will probably be Forward Motion. They carry Mopar Performance parts as well as their own line of custom engine parts. A mail order catalog is available. LRE (Lambros Race Engineering) also has an outstanding selection of mail order engine, suspension, brake, fuel, and other high performance accesories.

3.0 Engine Upgrades 

Allpar has a 3.0 Liter performance page (including instructions an building a Ram Air kit) and a page instructing you on how to go about fixing the leaky valve seals that plague many of these engines.

Make sure you sure you have a 52mm throttle body on your 3.0 Liter (only 1987's got it), others were reduced to 46mm.  If so, buy an aftermarket T.B. or visit the scrapyard for the larger 52mm.  It makes a big difference in throttle response.  You'll need a new gasket and will have to plug one port.

The only source I have found for any performance engine parts is Forward Motion. (see above). They offer an underdrive pulley that I have seen no where else.

Suspension Upgrades:

Go to Allpar's FWD handling modification page
or try these suppliers:
Mopar Performance , Forward Motion, Monroe, Eibach

Rear wheel drive / V8 kit

Perhaps this is the ultimate engine-performance kit: moving from a 135-cubic-inch four-cylinder to a 440-cubic-inch V8, driving the rear wheels. Thanks, Sgt. Jason E. Schrieffer, for sending in these photos.

rear wheel drive dodge daytona

“I have a 1989 Dodge Daytona that has been converted to rear wheel drive using the Mopar Performance kit, which is no longer available through Dodge. I did not build it, but it is strictly Mopar with a 440 and an 8 3/4 rear end.”

440 V8

V8 Daytona


Dodge Daytona maintenance

Turbo engines traditionally have required much more maintenance over the years than the non-turbos. The 2.2 blocks themselves were extremely solid engines. Good sources of info for maintenance are:

Troubleshooting: see the Chrylser FAQ.

Technical Service Bulletins :These are bulletins published by Chrysler that warn and instruct mechanics of common problems when working on specific vehicles. They are available to the public and are extremely helpful the backyard mechanic.

Computer Codes: Most people never even check these and it is such an easy way to troubleshoot your engine. On 1983-90 Chrysler cars turn the ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds (do not start the engine) and the engine light will light for 2 seconds and then start flashing 2 digit engine codes. These codes can be extremely helpful, and most parts shops will give you lists of the code numbers and what they mean.

Chrysler Manuals: Chrysler service manuals, training videos, Technical Service Bulletins, supplemental manuals, and owner's manuals are available from Chrysler's publisher, Tech Authority. They can be reached at 1-800-626-1523 and have VERY reasonable prices. For example, I bought a full Chrysler shop supplement manual for disassembling a 3.0L V6 for under $10.

Also: 1-800-890-4038 for Chrysler service manuals and 1-800-346-4696 for the Chrysler Catalog Center (other docs)


Movies and TV

DOdge Daytona stock carTom Powell wrote: On the TV show Hunter, DeeDee McCall drives several Dodge Daytonas. I have noticed a garnet red / radiant silver 1984 and 1985 Turbo Z (early shows have the 4 lug rims, later epsiodes have 5 lug). Later in the show she had a flash red Daytona Shelby Z with t-tops and black rims (not factory). There is also an odd car; it has the Shelby Z body, with the Turbo Z seats and door panels, as they were updated and changed on the Shelby Z...it was probably made by Chrysler before all the final changes to the two Daytonas. In later episodes, the car is correctly badged and optioned as a Shelby Z.

The Wraith featured Dodge Daytonas; the Blair Witch Project featured a Daytona; and Frank Sinatra passed a Corvette at over 120 mph using a Daytona or Laser in Cannonball Run.

Buying and Pricing

The V6 models typically command a higher price. The IROC R/T (with 2.2 Turbo III) is the only model seen as a real collector's item. The base IROC model is nothing but a sticker package, don't be fooled! A small group of collectors will stay pay a good price for a well maintained Turbo Z.


Dodge Daytona specifications

Model/SpecShelby Z T21990 ES V-6IROC R/T
Base Price:X$10,995$18,542
Bore x Stroke, in/mm:X3.59 x 2.99/ 91.1 x 763.44 x 3.62/ 87.5 x 92.0
Displacement ci/cc:X181/2972135/2213
Compression ratio:X8.9:18.1:1
Valve gear:SOHC, 2 per cylSOHC, 2 per cylDOHC, 4 per cyl
Fuel System:XM EFIM EFI, Turbo, Intercooled
HP SAE net:174 @ 4800141 @ 5000224 @ 6000
Torque lb/ft SAE net:200 @ 3200171 @ 2800217 @ 2800
Redline rpm: 60006000
Curb weight (lbs):2812 (typical)30293134
0-60 mph (secs):X8.96.3

VIN Decoding

Only options available for the Daytona and Laser are listed to save space. Sorry, I don't have info on 91 -94 models, but I am guessing much of it is the same. Note that for convenience some engine codes may be listed even though the engines were not used in a given year. Some unnecessary codes are shown below ... since all Daytonas were made in the same place.

1. Country of Origin (1. US; 2. Canada; 3. Mexico; 4. Japan)

2. Make (B-Dodge ; C-Chrysler ; P-Plymouth)

3. Type is always 3, Passenger Car

4. Safety System is always B (manual seat belts) until 1989, when they added:

5. Model — AV is Daytona, AC is Laser until 1989, when AG for Daytona takes over.

6. Series: 1 is Economy, 2 is Low, 4 is High, 5 is Premium, 6 is Special/Sport, 7 is Performance Image

7. Body Style is always 4, or two-door hatchback

8. Engine: C is 2.2 carb; D is 2.2 EFI; E is 2.2 turbo; K is 2.5; 3 is 3-liter V6.

9. Check is a number or X and is just a checksum.

10. Model Year: E is 1984, F is 1985, etc... L 1990...

#11: Assembly plant

#12-17 uniquely identify your particular vehicle.

Pictures and Graphics

Chrysler Ads/Magazine Covers: 

Laser: 

Pacifica Daytona: 

Base Daytona: 

ES/Sport Daytona: 

IROC Daytona: 

IROC R/T Daytona: 

CS, Shelby, Shelby Z, and Turbo Z Daytona: 

Engines: 

Wheels 

Reference Material / Credits


  • Haynes Dodge Daytona and ChryslerLaser: 1984 Thru 1989 Repair Manual - $14.36 (at time of posting)
  • Visit Allpar's Daytona Owners' Forum!



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