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Replacing Oil Gallery Plugs

Does the plug have to be coated with RTV or Anerobic gasket sealer?

There is this wonderful brown stuff available from Permatex with a name something like 'Aviation form-a-gasket'. It is available in small metal cans that have a brush attached to the screw-on lid and is usually next to the silicone and RTV in the parts stores. Brush a little bit on the edges of the plug, hammer it into place, let it cure for a while, and you're good to go. The plug is hammered in around 1/16” at the most.

How does one remove the transmission to get at the plug?

I just had to pull the trans on a 1989 Daytona Shelby T2 to do a clutch on it, so here's the procedure as well as I can remember:

I unbolted the sway bar from the lower control arms and swung it down and out of the way. Next was to remove the ball joint bolts, then press down on the control arms to pop the ball joints out of the knuckle. Next I removed the axle nuts (you may want to do this beforehand unless you have an impact gun!) and, with a drain pan under the transaxle, removed the driver's side axle shaft. I then unbolted the equal length driveshaft setup and removed the passenger side as an assembly, since the axle shaft is almost always stuck to the intermediate shaft as tenaciously as a wino holds his bottle of cheap wine - in other words, there is nothing on this earth short of a small thermonuclear device which would separate the two.

The driveshafts taken care of, disconnect the battery and, if you like having room to work, remove the battery tray. Now you can remove the starter without doing any amateur welding when the wrench that you are using to remove the positive battery cable from the starter comes into contact with the head, block, exhaust manifold, turbo, on any of the other wonderful conductive things that are grounded under your car. There should also be a ground on the transmission case towards the firewall side (black with a yellow tracer if I'm not mistaken), the speed sensor plug, and the backup light switch on the front of the case. While you're up top, remove the airbox and brackets as well as all the intercooler hoses to make working around the transmission easier.

If you haven't already, now is a nice time to remove the shift cables from the transmission, as well as the bobble strut and related bracketry.

Now you're ready to start disconnecting the transmission from the engine. Start by removing the little 10mm bolt holding on the lower inspection cover, the big 18mm bolts holding the transmission to the front engine mount, the three 18mm bolts holding the steel brace between the block and the transmission in the back. You can then rip the steel inspection cover out of there so you don't have to worry about catching it on something later. Looking in from the driver's side wheel well, there will be several bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission case.

Now that you're ready to pull the beast, place a floor jack (or better yet, a transmission jack) under the transmission so that it doesn't fall on the floor when you're working on it. Next, remove the body plug covering through bolt for the transmission mount and remove the bolt. Allow the transmission to drop slightly and remove the bolts holding the mount to the case. Removing this mount will ease maneuverability greatly when working on removing and installing the trans.

Remove the remaining two 18mm bolts holding the top of the transmission case to the engine block, then if necessary use a prybar to separate the engine and transmission (the input shaft will make this a bit difficult). Then the trick is to get the transmission out while maneuvering the differential around the K-frame.

I'm sure there are some really big, glaring, obvious omissions from my instructions.

(Can it just be unbolted and dropped out of the bottom?)

You betcha.

Thanks for any tips and tricks,

My biggest tip is to, once the intermediate shaft is removed, unbolt and remove that little tailhousing sticking out of the passenger side of the differential case. Trying to get that pig to clear the K frame and the mounting ear on the engine block was a bigger pain than having the mother-in-law visit for a week. Removing that housing lets you simply rotate the transmission out and onto the floor.

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