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Power steering racks (mechanic Mike Stanhope): They are easy for a mechanic — the roll pin in the knuckle from the column is a bear to do, but the rest is pretty straightforward. Unbolt the rack, disconnect the steering, take the power steering lines off the rack, take the outer tie rod ends off the knuckles, and drop the K frame down a little and it slides right out. I think it took about 3 hours to do one on the last Chrysler I did.
Power windows (Dan McGuire): If the window has problems going up and down or falls into the door, you need to replace the rubber/plastic strip; it’s available at the dealer and costs around $30. It only takes about twenty minutes to put it in. Take off the door panel, unbolt the end of the broken strip from the window and run it past the end of the track. Take the broken bits and use them as a guide to cut the new strip to the right length, then feed the new strip onto the track, bolt it to the window and put the door panel back on.
Dim or slow tail lights and brake lights (Stan): A thin phospher bronze spring makes the ground contact to the outer socket shell; corrosion destroys the contact. The result is a dull bulb or slow lighting. My repair was to remove the shell from the socket, file a clean spot onto the shell, and solder the ground wire to it. Time was about half an hour (I work slowly). I don't recomend buying new sockets because the ones I found at the parts store and dealer are constructed the same way, and you'll eventually have the same problems.
“Gearhead” wrote about replacing 1986 Dodge Aries and Plymouth Reliant door hinge pins with Grade 8 bolts, to stop sagging doors. You may need to drill out the holes and add bushings as well. Craig Bilsky wrote, “ The auto body guy had to drill out the holes because Chrysler did not originally include sleeves. He then inserted Grade 8 bolts and the doors shut smoother than they did with the original pins.”
Also see A/C lamp replacement and engine and associated systems repairs
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