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Removing the Tevis ABS hydraulic assembly from a Chrysler TC and installing a conventional vacuum booster system.
Allpar says: proceed at your own risk and knowing that you will be removing your car’s antilock brake capability, which may result in longer stopping distances in poor-surface conditions. This change may be necessary because reliable replacement parts for the Tevis ABS brake system are becoming scarcer with time. Always use high quality parts and caution when working on brake systems.
By Hemi Andersen
You may find yourself with a failing ABS brake system on your TC. To remedy that condition, I acquired the power brake booster and master cylinder from a 1989 Chrysler LeBaron with four-wheel disc brakes. The master cylinder was marked “4 WHEEL DISC BRAKES.”
Note: It is important to use a four-wheel disc brake master cylinder!
You need a booster like this, the hydraulic lines down to and including the proportioning valve, and the lines to both front brakes from the donor car.
Disconnect the battery!
Inside the car, you need to remove and (replace later) the brake-pedal swing arm complete with retaining clip from the booster push rod. As you can see, they are quite different.
Oh, yes, you need to make room for yourself in order to work under the dash.
Remove the Tevis ABS system (four nuts under the dash), outside the hydraulic lines to the front brakes, and the line to the TC’s unique proportioning valve, mounted on the frame rail. Retain this line to use after re-flaring (double flare) the forward end with a new or used line nut that fits the donor proportioning valve.
Loosely mount the LeBaron proportioning valve and lines for the master cylinder before installing any other major components. This is the time to install the front brake lines and connect them to the proportioning valve. Also install the re-flared line to the TC’s proportioning valve. This is the only line needing this.
Note: The flares are different between the European and the domestic style.
Since all domestic cars have two brake lines leading to the rear, plug either one of the two fitting holes for the rear brake lines in the metering block. This is a special plug which must be purchased. The single line on the bottom of the newly installed proportioning valve can be installed in either available position.
Once all of this is in place (loosely), you can mount the booster – easiest without the master cylinder attached. Firmly tighten the four mounting nuts prior to installing the brake-pedal swing arm on its pivot. Attach the booster pushrod and retaining clip. Reattach the stop-lamp switch. Adjust after the system is filled and bled.
Back under the hood, determine the attachment of the two brake lines to the master cylinder while having it rest on the two booster studs. You will need to reshape the lines for them to fit. You are on your own here – use the proper bending tool as needed. Pre-bleed the master cylinder and install permanently.
Once everything fits properly in place, tighten whatever you have loose, the lines, valve, and bracket. Bleed the brakes in whatever way you prefer.
Check for leaks.
Install the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the booster and the line to the air conditioning control, as in the picture at the top of the page.
Start the engine, and test the system.
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