How to wire “old school” mid-1970s through mid-1980s ignition systems and EGR systems
This is for a complete new electronic ignition system, replacing a current one (or a points system), on a Chrysler Corporation vehicle.
First, go down to the trusty auto parts store and tell them either:
- I would like a 4 pin Dodge/Chrysler ignition “ECU” box from a 1983 pickup truck (example Dodge D-150 with 318 v8) – and the 2 pin ballast resistor that goes with it.
- I would like a 5 pin Dodge/Chrysler ignition “ECU” box from a 1975 pickup truck (example Dodge W-100 with 318 v8) – and the 4 pin ballast resistor that goes with it.
One is not better than the other… they do the exact same thing. The 4 pin simply as extra ballast integrated into it. You can use a 4 pin box with a 4 pin resistor, but you cannot use a 5 pin box with a 2 pin resistor.
Note: all connections to be made with 14 gauge wire, and please do use di-electric grease when you crimp or snap on a spade connector / butt connector / bullet connector… the environment under the hood will foul up and rust the connections if you don’t.
(Dan Stern suggests: either a standalone late-model spool-type coil (GM or Mopar) or spend the $35 on an MSD Blaster, which fits the stock can-type coil bracket. Otherwise the coil will have a short life - Mopar used different coils on electronic ignition-equipped vehicles!)
The 5 pin box … with dual ballast resistor…
Note: “start” is only hot (+12V dc) DURING cranking, and “run” is hot (+12V dc) from the moment you turn the key on, through crank, and after crank.
The 4 pin box … with single ballast resistor…
Note: “start” is only hot (+12V dc) DURING cranking, and “run” is hot (+12V dc) from the moment you turn the key on, through crank, and after crank.
The simple man’s EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system – THAT WORKS!
For your 1980s smogger vehicles, for which you must have a working EGR to pass some/many state inspections, here’s your fix. Based off a 1988 EGR / Charcoal can setup from a Dodge Ram heavy duty with Canadian Emissions… but – it’s legal folks, and it works 100%.
Parts are actually Jeep Wagoneer parts, available from www.teamgrandwagoneer.com – a site devoted to restoring old school Jeep Wagoneers – luckily – the 360 and 318 in the old Jeep are identical to the 360 / 318 in Dodge / Chrysler / Plymouth cars and trucks – so, the parts, while having different numbers, are interchangeable.
To do this, you’ll need a charcoal can from an 80s-something Chevy pickup or van… it’ll have 3 vacuum hose connections… 1) “to air cleaner”, 2) “vapor” [stands for “to fuel tank vapor recovery line], and 3) “purge” [or may say “carb” or “bowl vent”].
Here’s how she works – quoting the 1988 W150 dealer shop manual…
The first 155 degree TIDC controls the EGR… “In this application, the switch is normally closed up to 150 degrees F, above this temperature, the switch opens subsequently supplying vacuum to open the EGR valve. The other [2nd 155 degree TIDC valve] behaves as a CVS3P. In this application, full distributor advance is ensured by supplying manifold vacuum to the distributor below 150 degrees F.”
“Below 150 degrees F, trapped manifold vacuum to the distributor ensures full spark advance at idle. During cold acceleration, distributor timing slowly returns to normal. This feature was added for cold weather driveability.”
“Above 150 degrees F, the three port switch [2nd 155 degree TIDC] turns control of spark advance over to the [220 degree] TIDC valve. Below 225 degrees F – carburetor vacuum to the distributor [is supplied], and above 225 degrees F, manifold vacuum to the distributor for full spark advance [is supplied]. This reduces engine heat rejection and increases engine rpm and thus fan speed.”
Now… what parts do you need?
1 – an EGR valve… any EGR will do so long as it fits your motor. www.teamgrandwagoneer sells one for all 318/360 motors that is kind of on the large side (its an old style) but it works. (note, you may need a 1” carb spacer if you use it because it doesn’t clear linkage on aftermarket carbs).
2 – charcoal can … boneyard – 1970s and 80s Chevrolets… they only have 3 ports… “purge, air cleaner, tank”. 10 bucks at most. To help with the purge canister hunting - part number... I had to get a new one because I accidently drilled a hole through mine when I went to put a new washer fluid thing in my truck. GP SORENSEN # 779-22019 available at www.partsamerica.com (Advance Auto Parts) @ $55 new with warranty.
3 – carburetor …either the stock Carter or an Edelbrock 1400 performer series will work — note only the 1400 model, not the 1403 or 1406 —only the 1400 has the bowl vent port. You can use the other carbs; you will simply have to connect the purge port on the charcoal canister to MANIFOLD VACUUM. I found this out after initially trying to "T" it into the air filter line -- the way these charcoal can's work is as follows...
a) fuel vapors vent out of the tank and into the canister where they're trapped.
b) The "air cleaner" nipple on the canister is the output, the path through which the vapors flow out and into your
carburetor's bowl [if you have an aftermarket carb, you simply drill a small hole in the base of your air cleaner, put a nipple on it, and hook it up to there].c) when vacuum is applied to the purge nipple on the canister, a valve is opened inside the canister that allows the fuel
vapor to flow out through the air cleaner nipple on the can. If you don't apply vacuum, then it will not open, and the system is useless. Old carburetor purge ports were nothing more than metered manifold vacuum.
4- spark decay delay valve – mopar part number 53002381 (old number) and 30997 (new number – same item).
5- EGR delay valve – mopar part number J3236285 (old) and 60989 (new number – same item).
“Coolant Temperature Overrides / Thermostatic Vacuum Switches / TIDC’s”
6 – 3 port “red” 220 degree F vacuum switch … Jeep number = J5358881 / Dodge number = 3200853 / Borg Warner number = EC970 / Napa Echlin number = CRB21000 / Everco number = H1934 / Filko number = 38-116 / Wells number = E900
7 – 3 port “yellow / green” 155 degree F vacuum switch … Jeep number = J3235917 / Dodge number = 3229450 OR 3216448 / Tomco number = 13303 / Borg Warner number = EC945 / Napa Echlin number = CRB229035 / Everco numbers = H2942 OR H2944 / Standard number = PVS10 / Wells Number = E901 ….. YOU NEED TWO OF THESE SWITCHES — TWO OF THESE!!!!!!
8 – bunch of vacuum hose and connectors and junk…
9 – lots of time on your hands.
TOTAL COST = about $200 with the hoses and everything, but now I don’t have to worry about passing emissions, and I can have peace of mind knowing that my setup isn’t hampering the performance of my vehicle because it’s hooked up incorrectly. It’s simple, it’s effective, and it’s correct. What more can you ask for?
Well… I hope this helps… again, a great place to get all this stuff really easily is www.teamgrandwagoneer.com … I ordered my stuff on a Friday, got it by Monday, with one minor slip up (shipped me a 2 port instead of a 3 port) that they are correcting very quickly… so I’m happy.
Credits go to …
http://www.drbob.tqhosting.com/tech/cto.html
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/wagoneer/401/intake.html
1988 Dodge Plymouth Trucks D150-350, W100-350, Ramcharger/Trailduster Shop Manual
http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com
Alternative method (by Dan Stern)
That's a fine tutorial on how to install a Mopar electronic ignition box, but a GM HEI module is better. It creates a hotter spark and doesn't use a ballast resistor (which means *adios* to the failure-prone thing!). The way I do it:
1) Fetch a piece of aluminum 1/4" thick by about 2" by about 3-1/2"
2) Drill two holes in it to match the HEI module's mounting holes
3) Squirt heat sink compound on plate, put HEI module on plate, secure plate and module to inner fender.
4) Remove ballast resistor. Discard.
5) Wire module like this: http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html
The author says you have to have the GM connector, but that's not true. All you have to do is make sure you use the correct-size female spade terminals (three of the four terminals on the module are one size, the fourth is 3/16".)
Holding the module with the convex side down or toward you, upper left is terminal"B," battery; lower left is "C," trigger; two on right are for pickup coil. "Which pickup coil wire goes to which module terminal?" is determined by trial and error. If engine is difficult to start or runs poorly after installation, swap these two wires.
So, two wires from ordinary Mopar electronic distributor go to two RH terminals, upper left "B" gets connected to coil (+) primary so that it gets +12V from ignition switch (no ballast resistor in between!), and "C" goes to coil (-) primary. The only other thing that needs to be assured is a proper module ground, but it's very difficult *not* to have this!
There is an interesting potential option to add knock sensing with corresponding ignition retard easily. There's a 5-pin HEI module specifically designed to listen to a knock sensor, which would simply have to be mounted and its wire connected to the relevant HEI module pin. I'm researching this.
6) Leave the stock coil if you want, or -- better -- use either a standalone late-model spool-type coil (GM or Mopar) or spend the $35 on an MSD Blaster, which fits the stock can-type coil bracket.
7) Open plug gaps from 0.035" to 0.045" (improved starting, idling, driveability, mileage)
8) Drive and enjoy.
