Note: Allpar does not take responsibility for the veracity of any information or opinions here, does not claim expertise, and is not responsible for any consequences. Please proceed at your own risk.




Fuel pressure troubleshooting

A forum member needed to know how much fuel pressure was needed on his turbocharged Dodge Daytona (his was 80 psi) — he needed to know whether his fuel pressure regulator was faulty. (The correct fuel pressure for these cars, turbocharged, was 55 psi; the standard single-injector versions had lower pressure).

Abkshelby wrote that fuel pressure regulators seldom go bad on the 2.2 cars; “It is possible due to age but they leak gas in the vacuum side of the regulator when they fail.” He also said a faulty regulator usually resulted in a high, rather than low, pressure.

Neonturbo wrote that a plugged or kinked return line could cause excess pressure (Chrysler went to returnless injection in the mid to late 1990s - the first company to do so). He also pointed out that a stock regulator for that car runs around $90, with an adjustable one costing around $130 for modified engines.

The original car owner had the car moved to another shop, which replaced the computer and various other parts, without having any impact. Bob Lincoln strongly advised paying the bill and driving or towing the car home to avoid having the bill run even higher. “ I suspect that they are hoping to drive the bill up so high that you cannot pay it; then they’ll put a mechanic's lien on it and legally take it away from you.”

Abkshelby wrote:

With aftermarket parts (especially from Advance), you take a big risk that the remanufactured part you get is no good. Quality remanufactured parts are impossible to find now. Quality to them means just cleaning up and painting an already bad part.

Note: the information on this page is from the thread at http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125887

Also see our page on fuel pump issues and replacements

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