[Stratuscaster]

I'd just as soon go with a quality bulb after making sure my headlight lenses were clean and clear.

[chuzz]

Have you tried the clean and polish procedures a lot of guys here have done to the lenses? That could possibly be the bulk of your problem. Fogged lenses.

[fjb37]

My 95 LHS had the 9007 bulbs and the headlights were terrible. I always had the fog lights on along with the low beams. My 94 GC has very good headlights but they are clean and bright, no yellowing at all. Just my $0.02.

FredB

[smandzak]

I had good luck changing out my 9004's to 9007's. A bit more light that I immediately noticed. Only thing I needed to do besides the standard modifications was to aim the headlights down a bit. The bulb change moves the bright spot a bit so if you dont re-aim the lights people will think you have your high beams on.

For the yellowing housings, I just wet sanded them with fairly smooth grit sandpaper and then clearcoated them with UV resistant paint to protect the plastic from further yellowing.

[Beans]

smandzak, on Feb 24 2009, 10:49 PM, said:

I had good luck changing out my 9004's to 9007's. A bit more light that I immediately noticed. Only thing I needed to do besides the standard modifications was to aim the headlights down a bit. The bulb change moves the bright spot a bit so if you dont re-aim the lights people will think you have your high beams on.

For the yellowing housings, I just wet sanded them with fairly smooth grit sandpaper and then clearcoated them with UV resistant paint to protect the plastic from further yellowing.

You have to think of your headlights like eyeglasses or your windshield.
If you keep wiping stuff on them, or spray them with paint you're going to diffuse the light.

The headlights need to have all the pits sanded out, and then be polished smooth.

When I got my '97 used, I could barely tell the headlights were on.
After sanding and polishing them, and adding the Silverstars, I have no problems with seeing the road ahead of me.

The pits need to be removed from the headlights in order to get more light directed in front of the van.
-beans

[Beans]

A way to get great headlights

This post has been edited by Beans: 24 February 2009 - 11:46 PM

[Andreb]

on my '96 I wet-sanded and polished the lense + I upgraded the whole headlight wiring harness: heavy duty 9007 sockets, gauge 12 wiring soldered and shrink wraped, with heavey duty relays and sockets, wired straight to the battery for the + and the ground. On that new harness I sports some 100w/90w 9007 bulbs and I think it's much better than it use to be!

[smandzak]

If you were a registered user, you would not be seeing this!

Beans, on Feb 24 2009, 11:39 PM, said:

You have to think of your headlights like eyeglasses or your windshield.
If you keep wiping stuff on them, or spray them with paint you're going to diffuse the light.

The headlights need to have all the pits sanded out, and then be polished smooth.

The pits need to be removed from the headlights in order to get more light directed in front of the van.
-beans

That was the point in sanding the lights - to smooth them out. My main problem was the factory UV coating coming off, and the flaking and discoloration from no UV protection was throwing off the beam. I wetsanded it to well past 1200 grit, and then you have to add on a new UV protectant to keep the plastic lense from deteriorating further. You can't just leave the plastic bare.

[Beans]

smandzak, on Mar 15 2009, 11:21 PM, said:

That was the point in sanding the lights - to smooth them out. My main problem was the factory UV coating coming off, and the flaking and discoloration from no UV protection was throwing off the beam. I wetsanded it to well past 1200 grit, and then you have to add on a new UV protectant to keep the plastic lense from deteriorating further. You can't just leave the plastic bare.

You're right about the UV coating thing smandzak.
I looked into this.
There are some replacement coatings, nothing like the specially applied coating on the lens when new because it uses an industrial process to get it on there (or so that's the way its explained out there on the internet.)
The closest thing I found was a product called LenSaver - but that's $90.00 for a kit to handle two headlights.
I'm guessing there was enough UV protectant in the polishes I used, because its been a couple years since I did my headlights, and they are still clear.
I've gone over them by hand with the plastX a few times, but nothing more. My van is always outside.
Occasionally, things go my way and I don't end up in a deeper mess. So far, this has been one of those things that worked out OK for me.
Now, I'm up north in the Great Lakes region. The little protection from the polishes may not be enough as you head south.
I think Mother's plastic polish touts its UV protection abilities. Of course, you can't just put something like a polish on once and expect it to last years. You have to hit the lenses up regularly.
And then there is the thought that that factory protection doesn't last all that long itself...
Life was easier with those round glass headlamps that were - two sizes fits all.

This post has been edited by Beans: 16 March 2009 - 12:52 AM

[minivanin]

find e-code headlights, they use an H4 bulb

its seems hit or miss, my old '94 GC headghts sucked @#$...yet my '94 Voy headlights are tons better...i think the inner reflector was dull on my GC lights

[caraturbose]

This is the problem on my 94 T&C...I ve polished and de-yellowed the lens and yeah they look great but the light out put is horrid. Heres the only solution... the inner reflector wears off which gives better light, I'm ordering new brand new ones!! I ve found them online for about $55 each.

[Rick Anderson]

I have wet sanded and just polished the yellowed lenses, if you wet sand and then polish the lights, it does produce a noticeable improvement. BUT, it quickly oxidizes and yellows again, I thought I saw a product somewhere that seals the lense after polishing to help prevent it from yellowing again.

Another thing to consider, I got new lenses off E-Bay for my Neon, they worked great. Granted, side by side comparison, the quality was NOT as good as OEM. Yes, the lenses were very clear, but the the frame and backing, etc seemed more flimsy than the OEM. BUT, the quality was good enough, I have NOT had any problem with my $35 lense and get good light with stock bulbs. Much better than the old lenses that had been polished and wet sanded more than once, just to yellow or haze over again; and MUCH cheaper than OEM that was over $100 a piece.

BTW, GE NightHawk Bulbs, I've never found them in stores, you may need to order off the internet. BUT, they seem to be the brightest LEGAL bulbs I've ever found.

Beware the blue bulbs, its a trick to change the temperature of the light, it makes a more pleasing light to the eye, arguably even makes things up close more visible, but the light level far down the road is lower and you see less far off, the total light for the bulb is less than a stock light or that have a slight "yellowish" hue in comparison.

There are a few "Reasonable" blue lights, that keep the amount of blue to a low level and overdrive the bulb to make up for the blue filtering and produce the same amount of total light. I'm pretty sure the Sylvania SilverStar and some other versions of their bulbs are like this. Most people like them, I've tried them and they "appear" to me to have the same amount of total light as a stock bulb, with just a little bit of blue to produce a more eye pleasing light that does make things up close easier to see in better detail. I still like the GE NightHawk Bulbs over the Sylvania SilverStars though, you can see farther down the road.

[BluesMan]

My 2000 Town and Country has the most pitiful headlight performance I've ever seen. I tried working on the lenses, but there is so much clouding and pitting INSIDE that I can't get to. Anyone know if the lenses are removable so I can get to this? I was hesitant to try to remove them, as I didn't want to break something. Or can I remove the inside components and get to the inside of the lens from the back? Or is there a better option, like a new version of this lens or housing?

I replaced the stock bulbs with Sylvania Silver Stars, and I can't see any difference.

Thanks, Bluesman

[Philip]

XX29J9, on 18 August 2008 - 08:55 PM, said:

chuzz, I've had success with the regular use of Meguiar's PlastX. Fortunately, there's no noticeable buildup on the inside of either lens.


fjb37, your GC must be the exception to the rule. Even after getting mine clean and bright, on high they're barely adequate as low beams, and that's in the dry; once it's dark and raining, aaargh!

I bought my 98 new, the lights have never been a strong point. I recall consumers magazine at the time saying that the lights were weak. I think they are very bright when you look into them however they are unable to project that light out far enough.

[Doug D]

BluesMan, on 15 October 2009 - 09:59 AM, said:

My 2000 Town and Country has the most pitiful headlight performance I've ever seen. I tried working on the lenses, but there is so much clouding and pitting INSIDE that I can't get to. Anyone know if the lenses are removable so I can get to this? I was hesitant to try to remove them, as I didn't want to break something. Or can I remove the inside components and get to the inside of the lens from the back? Or is there a better option, like a new version of this lens or housing?

I replaced the stock bulbs with Sylvania Silver Stars, and I can't see any difference.

Thanks, Bluesman

If you have clouding/pitting on the inside, you don't have much choice but to replace the housing assemblies. I had a '00 T&C Ltd with the quad set up. Overtime the lights became terrible. Tried to clean them up with a Permatrex kit but it didn't help that much. Looked into replacing them, but the quads are about $200 per side - $400 total. I never had to replace a bulb, but I do believe they are accessible from behind. Not sure how involved R&R the assembly is.

[valiant67]

The owner's manual should tell how to remove the headlight assembly because you have to do this to replace the bulb. It wasn't real obvious how to do it on my 1999 Town & Country. I've been pretty pleased with the lights on this van, again this is the quad setup that is so much better than the Dodge or Plymouth vans got.

Right now might be a great time to look for a 1999-2000 Town & Country (can't remember if 1998 is the same or not) that has better lenses. There are more than normal in the junk yards due to cash for clunkers. Finding a set that's decent inside and only need external polishing will make decent light on the Town & Country.

[fsb]

About the Silverstar bulbs. I have had these in two Ford Focus's. One as headlights, and one as foglights. I have had them in my Infiniti G20. When they were in the G, I went to turn them on after work, at about 11 p.m., and the BOTH burned out at the same time!!!! I was 40 miles away from home. The brights worked, and everybody got to be treated to having this car with their highbeams on all the way home. I felt like waving an I'm sorry banner out of my window. On other forums they have stated that if you get these bulbs, make sure that they are Osram Sylvania. Not the kind that you get at Walmart.
When I used them as foglights, I was replacing them about once a week. So be careful about the ones you get.

[BluesMan]

Removing the housing on my Town and Country isn't a big deal at all. I replaced the bulbs in less than 20 minutes. Three screws and two harnesses on each side. I'm going to check and see if there is an aftermarket housing or a later model that will fit that doesn't have the same issues. Probably not, but I have to do something. I hate to pay $400, but that may be the only option. Have to have good headlight performance.

On the subject of Sylvania, Osram Sylvania, etc. I have worked for General Electric for 36 years. My facility doesn't make headlamps, but fluorescent lamps of all types and lengths. We make lamps for Sylvania, Westinghouse, and Philips on a regular basis. Nowhere on any part of the lamp or packaging does it say, "Made by GE". The same thing probably happens at the headlamp facilities as well.

Always thought that should be against some kind of consumer protection laws, but evidently not. I always imagined a customer who had a bad history with GE, and wanted to specifically NOT buy their products, so they opt for another brand, and they may get GE anyway.