[Volunteer]

Take the black wire and the red wire (that normally attach to the ammeter) and join them together with a machine screw and washer and nut, tighten securely and tape really well.
Then, install a voltmeter somewhere else.

[64ragtop]

Volunteer, on Feb 5 2005, 01:43 AM, said:

Take the black wire and the red wire (that normally attach to the ammeter) and join them together with a machine screw and washer and nut, tighten securely and tape really well.
Then, install a voltmeter somewhere else.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Or. even simpler, remove the nuts and washers from both studs on the back of the guage and pull either wire off its stud. then place that wire on the other stud, so both wires are on one stud. It doesn't matter which one. Then replace the nut and washer on top of the two wires. No tape needed, and no worries of shorting anything out.

One caution: always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS remove the ground cable from the battery before doing electrical work on any car! I made that mistake (again) just recently. In the past, all I had done was blow a fuse. This time I darn near burned my 64 ragtop to the ground. Burned the heck out of my hand, too. Maybe the scar will remind me next time! I thought "heck this'll only take a second, and I've been doing stuff like it for thirty years, and higher voltage too" Well, it was a stupid mistake and I was lucky! Remove any worries, remove the ground cable before you start playing with the wires!

[64ragtop]

Herzeleid, on Feb 5 2005, 04:51 PM, said:

Thanks!

    This sounds easy enough. Do I need a voltage meter or is it optional? If I do need it where is a good location to install it? I had read somewhere that you're able to completely cease all voltage going through those two wires by running the fusible link directly to the starter relay? I'm not to sure if I read that accurately but that's what I gathered from reading step number five on these directions.

Vintage Chrysler Electric Repairs And Updates

Well once again I appreciate the help and any other suggestions are always welcome.

-Sean

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sean, That article is great, and following it 100% will solve all your problems. I'm going to modify his proceedure a bit when I get around to redoing my '64 Dart, but his way is just fine! In step five, he is bypassing the two circuits in the bulkhead connector that go to and come back from the ammeter. In step six, he mentions that some current still flows in that circuit. He has just removed the battery charging current. The ammeter will still work, but (and I'm guessing here) it will most likely never show a reading to the positive side of the scale. Neither would it show as much discharge current as might be occuring at any given time. This would scare me, so I hope to find a slightly different way to read charging current. I would certainly not want to go without a working ammeter or a volt meter. I just don't care for extra guages cluttering up the classic dashboard look.
The exception I make is that I do have a tachometer on my steering shaft, cause that's a classic muscle car touch I grew up with. You can find "cups" for aftermarket guages, and using one of these with a voltmeter instead of a tach would give that "look". Otherwise, you're stuck with the aftermarket guages in panels that they sell at any auto parts store you will find. Personally, I don't care for their look. However, I will have a voltmeter if I don't find a way to rig an indirect reading ammeter. In fact, I may add a voltmeter anyway, maybe in a second guage cup on the column.
Referring back to Ehrenberg's article, If your guage cluster looks like the one he shows in step three, you will need to be sure to put the positive wire going to the guage on top of the rest of the wires on the negative. The way I wrote my reply referred to there only being two wires on the guage.
While you're doing this, you should read part two of Ehrenberg's article. Do that stuff too, and you will be well on your way to being a pretty good antique Mopar dash guage technician. None of this stuff is hard, nor should it be scary. Basic soldering techniques are important, so as not to ruin parts that will be hard to replace. You might want to buy a basic soldering book at Radio Shack when you buy your soldering iron and other supplies. And don't forget to disconnect the negative battery cable before doing any electrical work in the car! I think I may have mentioned that before ;)

[dale martin]

Herzeleid, on Feb 5 2005, 08:51 PM, said:

I appreciate the long and detailed response. I understand how it works now, I just needed someone else to put it in perspective for me, It makes learning this stuff a heck of a lot easier. I have basic soldering skills so I should be Ok in that department if indeed I do decide to take on this project. I believe for now I'll just do what you mentioned earlier and combine both the wires until I buy a tachometer that has the rest of the gauges included in it as well, the only reason I haven't done that yet it is due to lack of money. Once again thank you for the help and advice, I'm sure I'll be back soon for some more :)

-Sean

I'm in the same boat with my 68 dart.
So I will bypass amp gauge by putting the red wire on the neg wire and tight down on the gauge poles in the cluster. ? Run a 10 gauge wire from alternator to starter relay ( with fusible link). ? Then add aftermarket volt meter where i feel looks and works best ? I hope you can verify this for me . I also read the step by step article very cool but i need the short version.

THANKS
DALE

[68RT]

Another option is to install an "Idiot" light. It just tells you if the alternator is putting out. It just does not say if it is enough or too much.