[gstringe]

The cabin air filter is accessed from underneath the glove box area . There is a narrow snap in plate that covers the filter. It slides down and out and as I remember it is jointed in the middle because you can't pull it straight out but have to bend it a little. The filter is about 3/4 inch thick and about 6 inches by 10 inches. Sort of like mini furnace filter.

When my old one went bad it stunk like barf whenever the fan was turned on, must have been the activated charcoal gave out.

[steve812]

Thx, I revised my previous post to include both Normally Open and Normally Closed fuses. They have changed throughout the years, I guess different engineers. Here's some pics of dirty heater boxes and a dash fire.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL856/1102933/2077148/132772397.jpg

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL856/1102933/2077148/132772401.jpg

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL856/1102933/2077148/132772400.jpg

[alainb]

Hi,

Thanks gstringe.

Just got this link from another forum about the cabin filter location:

http://hastingsfilte...ucts/af1203.pdf

Thanks to whoever posted it. :)

Alain

This post has been edited by alainb: 12 March 2006 - 07:01 PM

[steve812]

alainb, on Mar 12 2006, 04:55 PM, said:

Hi,

Thanks gstringe.

Just got this link from another forum about the cabin filter location:

http://hastingsfilte...ucts/af1203.pdf

Thanks to whoever posted it. :)

Alain

You're welcome!

[turbospeed]

I am working on replacing the blower motor on the wife's 01 GC. Whenever she runs the fan at lower speed settings it blows the thermal fuse on the resistor block. I have been changing thermal fuses for about two years. The blocks at my dealer now go for about $25 in Connecticut. I changed the cabin air filter with no improvement. I'm on my second attempt to get the blower motor out. The problem is that two of the screws that secure the lower half of the motor cage are installed from the top side. One screw is easy to get at from behind the glove box, but the other has been a real nightmare as it is located up against the firewall. I have access to broescope equipment, so I can find it with the scope but I haven't been able to get an 8mm socket on the screwhead yet. I made myself a flexible socket driver from about a foot and a half of 6 gauge cable enclosed in 3/8" copper tube and silver-soldered 1/4" male/female square sockets on either end. By the time I got the flexdriver bent to a position to get a socket on the screw, I couldn't turn it anymore. I would love to hear from someone that has successfully done this repair. A few years ago the dealer quoted me about $600 labor to change the fan motor. I'm not willing to give up yet.....
turbospeed

[fred2]

grandcaravan01, on Dec 26 2005, 05:50 PM, said:

I put in a new resistor block last month. Tonight, the fan only worked on HIGH once again. Is this a sign that I need a new blower motor?

If so, should I buy a brand new one or a used one? (I assuming the answer will be NEW because the old one may do the same thing, right?)

I have a 99 Intrepid. The resistor block went out about a year ago. I replaced it with one from the dealer (about $20) and it lasted about 6 months. Recently I replace it again with one from the dealer and also replaced the blower motor ($10 used). So far so good.

I am sure that there are tests that you can do on the blower motor to measure the loads that it is drawing. I managed to find a used one cheap and just changed it out.