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1977 Chrysler LeBaron 4-door base model owner.

Discussion in 'F-J-M: Volare, Diplomat, etc, 1977-89' started by 77LeBaron, Feb 3, 2017.

  1. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Hello I am the new owner of a beautiful 1977 Chrysler LeBaron 4 door base model pretty well equipped has the standard 318LE , A/C, AM/FM radio, Chronomatic Clock, need to know if a 1985 AM/FM cassette deck will fit in the 1977 dash. They all look the same from 1977 to 1989 I like the chrome look of the mid eighties radios and the LED display , Want to swap out the dash trim chrome to my 1977 . Any ideas about the radio connectivity or mounting issues ? Also looking for the aluminum allow OEM wheels on those 1977-81 models , Any fellow !977-1981 LeBaron owners out there ? Thank You
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  2. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator Level III Supporter

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    The radio size is 1½ DIN, like all domestic Chrysler products of the mid-70's to 2000's. The mounting ears are at the lower left corner and upper right corner.
    The wiring harness connectors changed in 1984 for the ETR. The wire you have to add will be fused battery power for clock/station preset memory. Tapping from the nearby cigar lighter wire would work.
    The speaker wiring would have to be isolated from the body (-) common. The 1977 body was used as a speaker return conductor back to the older radio. This could damage the newer radio audio output ICs. You need what is called a 'floating ground'. There are floating-ground adapters available, but I have never used one. An example:
    Scosche FGA Floating Ground Adapter
    You would want to splice the car wiring to the newer style connectors or use plug-in adapters so you wouldn't have to cut wires:
    ChryslerDodgeRadioWiring.jpg
    I have used Metra brand radio connector kits when doing car audio conversions.
    You will want to use the braided ground strap secured to the radio case.
     
    77LeBaron likes this.
  3. goair99

    goair99 Member

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    Pics??? No one ever has pics...
     
    wolfsblood07 likes this.
  4. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Wow Thankyou for all the technical info I probably would have destroyed the newer radio. I just want the chrome /aluminum facing and the LED readout of the 82 -87 dashboards, I also plan to use the chrome/aluminum light housing also. I just love the 1977-1979 LeBarons and am coming around the 1980 styling . I am also wanting to add the factory option rear defroster if it is not to difficult a task. Thankyou for the technical help now to hit the junkyards and find my Radio and trim pieces .
     
  5. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I will post many a picture in the next few weeks after a good detailing. My first car was a 1976 Plymouth Volare Premier Black Exterior Burgundy vinyl or leather interior not sure which, had the 318LA . I bought in January 1982 for 800.00 while in the Army in N.C. Had the rust issues but not to bad but the car was originally from upper Ohio. That car took me from Canada to Florida and everywhere in between. Never had any mechanical problems other than a bad carb. A/C blew cold and all power windows worked . The funny thing is I never really performed routine maintenance on that car I had it for almost 3 years and did not once change the air filter, spark plugs , or any fluids only once changed the oil. The car never burned or ate oil, the brakes were as strong as when I bought it I must have put 60,000 miles on it. I Left the car in N.C. to another soldier in 84 with a set of pretty bald tires for 500 dollars. The Volare Premiers are hard to find these days so I was really surprised when the 77 LeBaron appeared. I do miss that 76 Volare though.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  6. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Imperial Crown I just noticed your moniker I had a 1967 Imperial Crown 4 door hardtop pretty optioned out minus Duel Temp. What Year is your Crown Imperial ?
     
  7. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator Level III Supporter

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    1966. The car was a Chicago couple's 20th wedding anniversary gift to themselves. It was a fun car. I did sell it to a Lincoln Continental club member a few years ago. I had too many projects that were getting neglected and needed the room in the garage.
    Elwood Engel was the stylist who left Ford for Chrysler and did both cars.
     
  8. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Beautiful cars were the 66 Imperials. Sadly I parted with my 67 also.
     
  9. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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  10. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Imperial you seem to have great electrical knowledge. I have just started my shakedown inspection of the 77 LeBaron and the interior lights (minus the instrument lights which work fine ) do not function. One did on the underside of the drivers side dash but would not go off which drained the battery I gently barely moved the wire around the light and it does not get power now or blew out . The Chronomatic Clock works fine but goes off when the ignition is off . All other lighting and switched function as normal . What could be my problem or problems ? Thankyou in advance Sir.
     
  11. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator Level III Supporter

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    I looked at the similar F-car 76 Aspen/Volare wiring diagrams:
    http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1976/76VolareA.JPG
    http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1976/76VolareB.JPG
    You might try a main library or find the factory service manual set (volumes I and II) for this car if you need more specific electrical information. Volume II is the electrical book. An example:
    Chrysler Lebaron and Dodge Diplomat Service Manual 1977 Used
    https://www.amazon.com/CHRYSLER-SERVICE-including-convertible-Diplomat/dp/B00HSQOVDG
    Finding a tattered paper manual with missing covers may save you money as it is the information inside that counts.
    Do you have the owners manual that shows which fuses are for what?
    A 12 volt test light show help hunt down the problem. You may have to disassemble some of the dashboard if you can't reach things from underneath.
    Pink (PNK) looks to be the power wire to the interior courtesy lamps and Yellow (YEL) looks to be the switch-to-ground side.
    If the Yellow wire is grounded to the car body or a door switch is stuck 'on', the lamp will stay on. Pink should have power all the time.
    The Pink wire splices into a Red wire and goes to the fuse box where it gets fused battery power.
    The headlamp switch's instrument cluster dimmer control has a 'click' at one end of the knob's turning to keep the interior lights on.
    In the larger 1976 cars (Newport/NYer) with a clock, the clock is powered by a Red wire that is on the Horn circuit. Does your horn work? The other side of the clock is a Black wire going to ground at the instrument cluster. I'm assuming that your wiring is similar to these as the 76 Aspen/Volare/Fury/Monaco don't show a clock in the wiring diagram.
     
  12. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather Level III Supporter

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    If the interior lights are not working, make sure your brake lights are working. On some of these cars the interior lights and brake lights are on the same fuse circuit.
     
  13. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I will check the brake lights tonight . Alas a new major problem is potentially lurking the smell of dreaded anti freeze in the heating mode . I have bad sinuses and sense of smell to start with. Yet the smell is there and even one time while out this day I switched to A/C which is functioning properly to to heat and adjusted the temperature slide from cool to heat and what appeared to be a vapor cloud was coming out of the drivers side dash vent. Any schematics of the Heater core location ? I never seem to learn with old cars !
     
  14. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Hey Thanks Imperial I purchased the service manual for about 18.00USD ! Looks like I may have my work cut out for me.
     
  15. Scrounge

    Scrounge Member

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    Before spending too much time and money on a heater core, there's a cheaper part beneath the dash that may be the culprit. I want to call it the heater control something, but that could be wrong; you might consult the shop manual. Mopers from that era sometimes had this problem, and it's much cheaper and simpler than replacing the heater core.

    Also, check the hoses to the heater core on the firewall. Sometimes, the connection will come loose; more likely, the hoses should be replaced.