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Centering the Engine

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by chuzz, Mar 23, 2017.

  1. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Okay, about a year ago, I replaced the lower and upper engine mounts in my PT GT. Yesterday, I noticed the lower one looks like it's torn again. I have read about the engine having to be properly centered, but I just can't comprehend how to do this. I've had two brain surgeries in the past 13 years and have lost most of my cognitive skills. I have to do things more by trial and error until I get it right. Can anyone PLAINLY explain this procedure or, even better, show me a video or pictures? I'd like to replace the lower one again, but want to do it correctly. I found a link that I had actually posted last year, I think, but I just can't figure out where the 119 mm measurements are being taken. It's very frustrating. Thank you.
     
  2. NEMopar

    NEMopar Member

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  3. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Well, thanks for the link, NEMopar, but I can't figure it out. I don't understand what they're referring to as the rear engine mount bolt. I think I'll just leave it alone for now. Maybe my son will be able to explain it to me when he gets a chance to look at it. I can do the work, I just don't get where I pull the measurements from. Now I'm even MORE aggravated!
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator Level III Supporter

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    I used to just line up the bolt washers to the marks left behind by the bolt washers before. This way it would go back together in exactly the same spot as it used to be before I took it apart.
    The brackets are slotted and the engine/transaxle moves around for some adjustment.
     
    hemirunner426 likes this.
  5. NEMopar

    NEMopar Member

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    What the Hayes manual refers to as the "rear engine mount bolt" (point A in the diagram) is more precisely the "rearmost mounting bolt of the upper front motor mount". The view in the diagram and picture is from the right side of the car, above and over the right front fender. Hope that helps.
     
    pt006 likes this.
  6. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Yes, that clears it up for me. Thank you very much. I was under the impression that the measurements were taken from UNDER the car. No wonder it didn't make sense.
     
  7. pt006

    pt006 Member

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    Chuzz, on an 06 PT, there is a plastic bracket in the small front measuring hole. I left mine in and put a line on the bracket to measure from. The 4.72 inch [same as 119 mm] measurement must be done with both upper and lower torque struts [aka dog bones] loose and the forward part of the engine/trans jacked up. All you're trying to do is rotate the motor to the 4.72 [almost 4 3/4" dimension]. It takes very little jack pressure to do this. The picture shows a piece of sheet metal cut to 4.72" long and used as a measuring tool. Good idea. The hardest part is the inner fender plastic panel. Maybe it's easier when the temp is above freezing.
     
  8. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Thanks, pt006. I've already cut a piece of stiff wire to use as I can't get my tape measure or ruler in a good position for that measurement. I'm just waiting for the new lower strut mount to arrive from rockauto. I'm expecting it Wednesday, so I'll see how it goes. Hopefully it won't be too much of a pain. Can I use a crowbar in the lower mounting bracket to move the engine? I'm still not clear how people are getting it to the correct measurement. I'd thought about a 2x4 between the engine and firewall, but don't want to risk breaking a vacuum line or something. I don't have the lower plastic cover. It was missing when I got the car. And above freezing? I definitely don't have to worry about that. I live in Hell aka central Florida. It's always hot here.
     
  9. pt006

    pt006 Member

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    Chuzz; do not use the crow bar. The idea is to properly position the engine first and THEN tighten down both struts so that when you release the jack it will put equal pressure on each strut.

    The engine and transaxle assy. is suspended on the frame rails by motor mounts on each side. They support the entire weight of the assy. The torque struts prevent [limit] the engine from rotating forward and back. The 4.72" dimension locates the axle shafts in line with the wheel hubs.

    If you don't have an extra jack and spacer block, you can use a 2 x 4 cut to the right length and slide it onto a 2x6 laying on the ground. Shims and wedges will get you there. Trial and error.

    And use jack stands! We want you to make it out of Florida alive.
     
  10. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Thanks, man. I have 4 jack stands. I NEVER get under a car without it being on ramps and wheels chocked or up on jack stands. When I was a teenager and we had bumper jacks, I barely got out from under a car that stared falling. Scared the heck out of me and I've always made sure they're secure since then. I can think of better ways to go than being crushed under a car.
     
    Doug D likes this.
  11. djsamuel

    djsamuel Active Member Level 2 Supporter

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    When you get the lower strut mount from Rock Auto, you may have to grind away some of the material near the rear bolt hole in order to clear the engine block. For some reason all lower torque struts I get interfere with the block in that area. Just compare it to the original and you'll see what needs to be removed.

    Doug
     
  12. pt006

    pt006 Member

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    My memory tells me there were 2 different styles of lower torque struts. Be sure the old and the new match up.
     
  13. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    You're right, pt006. They're different between the turbo and n/a engines. I triple checked the part# for the turbo. If it's not right, I'll send it right back and just buy one locally.
     
  14. djsamuel

    djsamuel Active Member Level 2 Supporter

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    The one for the turbo may be fine. I've had issues with the strut for the N/A engine.
     
  15. chuzz

    chuzz Active Member

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    Anyone know the proper torque specs for both mounts? I figure around 120-150, but would like to do it right.