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DIY Fuel pump swap

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by mr2tim, Mar 28, 2017.

  1. mr2tim

    mr2tim Member

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    8
    Fuel Pump Swap

    My wife’s 05 PT got flat-bedded home to me, with "no start" symptons. However it would crank the engine. There were no CEL codes! Being that she just fueled the car for this trip, lack of gas was ruled out. I checked the under hood fuse box and all fuses were good. In this Series 1 car (01-05) all the small relays under the hood in the fuse box are the same, so by replacing the horn relay with the fuel pump relay I determined the FP relay was not the problem.

    I had my wife key the ignition to on and placing a stethoscope (or a rubber hose) on the side of the fuel tank I could not hear any fuel pump whine. I next used starting fluid directly into the throttle body with the air filter off. Car started right up and ran a few moments, thus eliminating any non-spark or other incidental possible causes.

    I jacked up the rear of the car pulled loose the rubber hose going from the fuel filler into the tank. Then I used a simple hand siphon to remove 4+ gallons of fuel into containers, directly from this fuel entry point. Do not bother with siphoning from the fill cap since the fill tube must be removed anyway.

    Then I disconnected the electric & fuel connectors, which desperately needed the help of penetrating oil. None of the fuel or electrics connectors need special tools BTW.

    Then I un-strapped the tank (use of regular 15mm, required above exhaust tube) and lowered the rear of the, now nearly empty tank, (the front strapping does not loosen, it just pivots) and slid it out from under the car. Note: the fuel tank fill hole has restrictor which does not allow gas to spill out the fill hole.

    Again using penetrating oil, on the top tank connectors, I unfastened them. Using a hammer and screw driver I loosened the round steel seal atop the pump assembly (called a module) and removed the module.

    I need to point out 2 critical steps here. 1. Make a small sketch as to where the fuel lines are located or mark them. 2. Confirm with your part supplier that you need TWO (2) vinyl 7mm fuel hoses to complete the pump swap. Most suppliers have never, EVER!!, done this work and DO NOT understand BOTH vinyl (not rubber) fuel lines require removal (they’re non-reusable) to access the pump. (These fuel lines CANNOT be obtained from ANY parts store!!) BTW the fuel filter at the bottom of the pump must be changed to new so as not to void the pump warranty.

    Use of any jack under the fuel tank will assist the re-installation, as well as a 2nd pair of hands to steady the tank as someone uses the jack to lift the tank into position. Apply straps. Reconnect connectors after tank is in position and securely held in place.

    Fill w gas. Key the ignition on to prime the pump a few minutes.

    Smile and be proud. Even if the car doesn’t start you’ve just accomplished one of the harder tasks in maintaining the car. Certainly the stinkyest. (Trump wordJ


    Mister2 TIM
    SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
    A Toyota Race Team since 1987
    Boca Raton, Florida
     
    pt006 likes this.
  2. pt006

    pt006 Member

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    401
    Thanks for the write up.
     
  3. mr2tim

    mr2tim Member

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    8
    Interesting follow on my fuel pump replacement.

    Due to the fact that I replaced the fuel pump with screw clamps on hoses inside the housing assembly I find that the fuel system and it's piping no longer holds the pressure after I use the car. That is, I have to turn the key to on and wait a few seconds for the new pump to re-pressurize the system then start the car.

    Therefore I might suggest that if you can access heat shrinking 7mm piping if you can find it them. I could not and had to make due with what I could scrounge up on the Internet.

    Just thought I'd pass this note along.

    Regards from paradise,

    Mister 2 Tim
    SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
    South Florida
     
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