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Car Jolting While Accelerating


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12 replies to this topic

#1 codypet

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Posted October 22, 2008 at 09:14 pm

Hi guys!
Its been a while since I've posted but I have a real noodle scratcher here. My 2.6 Voyager is now up to 261,000 miles and I'm having a problem accelerating steadily from the 35mph to 55mph mark. It almost feels like theres not enough fuel and the car jolts slightly as I accelerate. The passengers don't feel this jolt, but you can definately hear the engine sputter in conjunction with the jolt. I just got a new fuel pump and filter I'd say 6 months ago. Once you lay off the gas, its smooth sailing. Any ideas?

#2 John Wood

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Posted October 23, 2008 at 07:46 am

Hi guys!
Its been a while since I've posted but I have a real noodle scratcher here. My 2.6 Voyager is now up to 261,000 miles and I'm having a problem accelerating steadily from the 35mph to 55mph mark. It almost feels like theres not enough fuel and the car jolts slightly as I accelerate. The passengers don't feel this jolt, but you can definately hear the engine sputter in conjunction with the jolt. I just got a new fuel pump and filter I'd say 6 months ago. Once you lay off the gas, its smooth sailing. Any ideas?


It really sounds like a mis-fire. Check or replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

#3 codypet

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Posted October 27, 2008 at 11:41 am

It really sounds like a mis-fire. Check or replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor.


I took the weekend to replace the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs and the problem cleared itself up through the weekend. Now its doing it again. Could it possibly be the ignition coil? I have an extra here ready to go if I need it. I just didn't want to replace it if I didn't have to.

#4 John Wood

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Posted October 27, 2008 at 12:05 pm

I took the weekend to replace the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs and the problem cleared itself up through the weekend. Now its doing it again. Could it possibly be the ignition coil? I have an extra here ready to go if I need it. I just didn't want to replace it if I didn't have to.



It could be.... especially if the old one is oily. Those old tank type coils are oil filled. Do you have a spare ignitor to try? That is the pickup in the distributor. So far, I have not had a problem with the ignitor in my vehicle. At least on these 2.6's there is no computer with a bunch of sensors. I hope it is not a carb issue.

#5 VABEAR

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Posted October 27, 2008 at 07:05 pm

Try a bottle of dry gas, HEET, water out, in the tank, if you have condensation in the tank she will buck on you.

#6 codypet

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Posted October 27, 2008 at 09:40 pm

It could be.... especially if the old one is oily. Those old tank type coils are oil filled. Do you have a spare ignitor to try? That is the pickup in the distributor. So far, I have not had a problem with the ignitor in my vehicle. At least on these 2.6's there is no computer with a bunch of sensors. I hope it is not a carb issue.


Thanks John. I replaced the coil after pulling it out and seeing a great deal of corrosion on the terminals. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the bucking problem. If it comes to having to replace the carb, I have 3 spares. I grab them at the junkyard whenever I can find them. That car is just getting so hard to find I grab whatever I can get when they show up.


Try a bottle of dry gas, HEET, water out, in the tank, if you have condensation in the tank she will buck on you.


I'll give that a whirl. It couldn't hurt and in Central Florida we're being plagued with stations with water in the fuel.

#7 codypet

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Posted December 1, 2008 at 10:52 pm

I wanted to give an update on what ended up happening. We found out we had some valve problems (ie chipped) as well as some misc. issues with the head. I managed to get a nice rebuilt head and put that in the car. While we were at it, I dropped the pan and got all that sludge out of the pan.... I don't know where it came from because I'm religious when it comes to oil changes. Either way the car is as smooth and a dream as ever. There is some idle/choke issues with the carb which I hear the 2.6 is notorious for. Its at a place I am happy with right now and in the mean time we'll be taking the spare carb (one of the 3 spares I have) and start rebuilding it. I envision the carb is the next thing to go since the tranmission was a rebuild and I put it in a year ago. Thanks for your help guys.

BTW has anyone had any luck with synthetic oil or that higher mileage stuff. I've only ever had conventional in the engine. All this sludge kinda worries me.

Edited by codypet, December 1, 2008 at 11:09 pm.


#8 Frank G

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 02:57 pm

All this sludge kinda worries me.


I'm generally reluctant to use an "engine flush" kind of product due to fears that smaller passages may be plugged by crud coming off the pan/valve covers, etc.

In my experience, excessive sludging is either due to infrequent oil changes or plugged and/or inadequate PCV systems.

Sorry I can't be of more help...

#9 Wizard

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 03:27 pm

Engine will be worn, Do you have vacuum gauge to read at idle and note how it vibrate or weavering, and do a blip test and snap shut to record the vacuum readings. Report back.

My 2.2 is not 100% healthy (pulling 18Hg, blip was near 1-2Hg then snap shut of appox 20-21Hg - worn or very small leak (I know of one in the computer transductor's diaphgram but no replacement available.)

Cheers, Wizard

#10 codypet

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 03:37 pm

Engine will be worn, Do you have vacuum gauge to read at idle and note how it vibrate or weavering, and do a blip test and snap shut to record the vacuum readings. Report back.

My 2.2 is not 100% healthy (pulling 18Hg, blip was near 1-2Hg then snap shut of appox 20-21Hg - worn or very small leak (I know of one in the computer transductor's diaphgram but no replacement available.)

Cheers, Wizard


Well this is the first time I've pulled the pan down since I've owned it so my hunch was that it was the caked on oil from at the very least the last 8 years maybe more! I'm certain it has vacuum leaks. I've patched them up the best I could but short of outright replacing the hoses, I don't see any more I could do. The ride is smooth now so I should be good there. I may try the PCV valve though, its been a couple of years since that was replaced.

Edited by codypet, December 2, 2008 at 03:38 pm.


#11 John Wood

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 03:43 pm

Given the age and mileage of the van, I would just continue using regular oil. I agree with Frank about avoiding a flush. With much buildup of sludge or hardened carbon, etc in that engine, you don't want to risk a chunk falling off and clogging an oil passageway.

I do use synthetic oil in my 86 van, but I have done so since 1991 (75,000 miles). I would certainly consider it on a lower mileage vehicle that you intend to run to 300,000 miles or more.

#12 Bob Lincoln

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 04:00 pm

Don't flush. Change oil and filter once a week for a month, then go normal intervals.

#13 codypet

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Posted December 2, 2008 at 04:45 pm

Given the age and mileage of the van, I would just continue using regular oil. I agree with Frank about avoiding a flush. With much buildup of sludge or hardened carbon, etc in that engine, you don't want to risk a chunk falling off and clogging an oil passageway.

I do use synthetic oil in my 86 van, but I have done so since 1991 (75,000 miles). I would certainly consider it on a lower mileage vehicle that you intend to run to 300,000 miles or more.


Thanks John. I was curious to know what you were doing considering you have a similar vehicle. You're right about not wanting a chunk to fall out. Right now the oil is honey colored since I wiped the pan clean on Sunday. It was a pretty good felling that now it is clean.


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