.
cars

Jump to content


Hello, Allpar Forums member or visitor! If you were an active member (more than two posts) or subscriber, you would not see this ad!

Register for a free account or Sign in (see top right of page for Facebook/Open ID login icons).


Photo
- - - - -

06 Sebring 2.7L, oil light comes on at idle after engine hot


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
26 replies to this topic

#1 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 03:23 am

I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring sedan with the "R" code 2.7L V6. I recently had to replace the engine in the car and purchased one out of a salvage vehicle with 66k miles. Immediately after installing the engine I ran "motor flush" through it before changing the oil, because I pulled off one of the valve covers to get a peek at the engine and it appeared to have some sludge in it (perhaps from irregular oil changes, etc.) After reading that the earlier 2.7L engines had problems with oil sludge blocking oil passages, I figured it would be a good idea.

At any rate, I changed the oil after running the motor flush through it. Once the engine is completely warmed up (sometimes it takes an extended period of driving on the highway), and I come to a light and the engine slows to idle, the oil light begins to flicker on. As soon as I accelerate (RPMs above about 700) the oil light goes off. I thought perhaps some of the motor flush was still in the engine and was causing the oil to become to thin so I changed it again, this time with 20W-50. Still the same result, although I have noticed in the last few days of driving it is not consistently coming on after getting off the highway and sitting at a light.

Is it possible I have a weak oil pump? Would it help to go back to the recommended 5W-20 weight oil? My understanding was by '06 Chrysler had rectified the oil sludge problem in the 2.7L engine? (The engine I installed was also out of a 2006 Sebring). Is it possible I still have plugged oil galleys, thus too much of my oil is at the top of the motor after extended driving, thus lowering the oil pressure?

Thanks for any tips!

#2 bill4253

bill4253
  • Active Member
  • 396 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 06:29 am

You need to hook up a pressure gauge to see what pressure you have. Connect it at the oil pressure switch location. If it indeed is low, then drop the oil pan to see how much crud is in there and to see if the oil pump pickup is clogged. You can also check the rod bearings to see if you have too much clearance. All you'd need to do is see if you can "rattle" each rod at the crankshaft. If there's any movement, then you have major problems.

Was the salvage engine run by the junk yard? Did it come with a guarantee? You may have some recourse if the engine is bad.

#3 valiant67

valiant67

    Rich, Corinthian Leather

  • Supporters III
  • Others:Forum Leader
  • 22,480 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 06:40 am

If you are lucky, it may be as simple as a bad oil pressure sending unit.
As mentioned in the post above, the proper thing is to use a pressure gauge to check. If it is within specs, replace the sender. Depending on your access to a gauge to test the pressure, you could just try a new sending unit.

#4 plypete

plypete
  • Inactive
  • 233 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 10:41 am

I had an 02 Intrepid with the 2.7 and had the same problem at about 100,000 miles. After replacing the sending unit, it was ok for a month or so then the light came back on intermittently. I hooked a pressure gauge to it and it was well within specs. After replacing the sending unit once again, the problem never came back. My engine had NO sludge however. With the reputation of the 2.7, if I was to do it again, I would just install a gauge it the car so I could see what was actually going on.

#5 ImperialCrown

ImperialCrown
  • Supporters
  • Others:Forum Leader
  • 11,781 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 10:59 am

There was a TSB on early 2.7L's with an oil pressure light coming on. The fix was to replace the o/press switch connector. The connector needs to 'breathe' to the atmosphere or the switch can't react to the pressure inside the oil galley. The old weather-proof rubber sealed connector wouldn't allow this.
It would be nice to know what the gauge pressure is. Is the engine noisy at all? I believe that the minimum hot oil pressure is allowed to go down to 4 psi before the switch closes. That is what is stated in the service manual. I personally would like to see 20 psi or more.
The pump may be fine (it is supposed to be the best lubricated part in the engine). If the main/rod bearing clearences are getting excessive then the pump can't produce the oil volume needed to keep up.

#6 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 12:59 pm

Thanks for the reply guys....I should have put this in my original post but forgot: As part of my troubleshooting I did replace the oil pressure switch with the one from my original engine, thinking also perhaps a faulty switch. That did not change anything. I do not readily have access to a pressure gauge but could purchase one if needed. I'm sure you know what a pain it is to get to the switch, having to move that heat shield out of the way.

What do you guys think about the fact that this only occurs when the engine is completely warmed up? Since I ran the motor flush through it for about 15 minutes, I would not think there would be any sludge left clogging the pickup screen.

#7 Bob ONeill

Bob ONeill

    325,000+ miles and counting...

  • Supermen
  • Others:Forum Leader, Superfriend
  • 29,380 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 12:59 pm

There is a TPS on this. On my '01 it was a bad sending unit which sprays a bit of oil on the wiring harness. We had this repaired and the problem went away.

#8 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 08:56 pm

There is a TPS on this. On my '01 it was a bad sending unit which sprays a bit of oil on the wiring harness. We had this repaired and the problem went away.



I'm thinking you mean a TSB?? I'll do some research on this site and on the Web to see if I can find it. I did notice on the original switch that is was oily, it did appear that there was a small oil leak on the switch. The used one I replaced it with appeared clean.

Were your symptoms the same? Flickering light coming on at idle once engine is warmed up? Unforunately for me, it sure seems to point to an oil pressure problem.

#9 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 13, 2009 at 09:57 pm

Well I did some Googling on this and found TSB #08-36-99. The symptoms described by this TSB are identical to what I'm experiencing, but I'm not certain this applies to my engine as I have a 2006 and this came out back in 1999. I read some other users experiences and there were some posts from people that had Intrepids as late as 2004 models with this issue, but have not found anyone reporting this problem with a 2005 or 06.

I guess it could not hurt to try.

#10 AC TC

AC TC
  • Active Member
  • 1,523 posts

Posted December 14, 2009 at 06:37 am

what oil and filter are you using?

#11 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 14, 2009 at 12:13 pm

what oil and filter are you using?


Mopar 090 filter and generic 5W-20 oil.

#12 Bob Lincoln

Bob Lincoln

    "CHECK FAULT CODES"

  • Supporters (L2)
  • Others:Forum Leader
  • 25,354 posts

Posted December 14, 2009 at 01:15 pm

I think perhaps you still have some residual flush in there. What brand and what quantity did you use?

I only flush motors with frequent oil changes. Typically if I buy a used car, I change the oil and filter once a week for a month.

If there was no problem with the oil pressure light in the original engine with original wiring harness, I think you can rule out the connector not being vented.

#13 Bob ONeill

Bob ONeill

    325,000+ miles and counting...

  • Supermen
  • Others:Forum Leader, Superfriend
  • 29,380 posts

Posted December 14, 2009 at 02:08 pm

I'm thinking you mean a TSB?? I'll do some research on this site and on the Web to see if I can find it. I did notice on the original switch that is was oily, it did appear that there was a small oil leak on the switch. The used one I replaced it with appeared clean.

Were your symptoms the same? Flickering light coming on at idle once engine is warmed up? Unforunately for me, it sure seems to point to an oil pressure problem.



Posted Image Bwaaaaa!!!!!

Yes, I did mean Technical Service Bulletin. TSB. Sorry about that.

#14 gts95

gts95
  • Inactive
  • 55 posts

Posted December 15, 2009 at 12:06 pm

I think perhaps you still have some residual flush in there. What brand and what quantity did you use?

I only flush motors with frequent oil changes. Typically if I buy a used car, I change the oil and filter once a week for a month.

If there was no problem with the oil pressure light in the original engine with original wiring harness, I think you can rule out the connector not being vented.


Well that is what I thought at first (there was still some flush in the motor causing the oil to thin-out), but I have changed the oil 3 times now since the flush. The first time with 10W-40, then 20W-50, and now 5W-20. I did remove the little "cap" from the secondary slot on the connector last night, in effect "venting" the plug. Drove this car to work this morning and did not get any oil light....however; it is much colder outside today than yesterday, and the car is also running cooler. The oil light usually only came on when the car was running warmer, right before the fan would kick on.

Will keep monitoring it.

#15 acreman

acreman
  • Inactive
  • 1 posts

Posted January 17, 2010 at 06:09 pm

Well that is what I thought at first (there was still some flush in the motor causing the oil to thin-out), but I have changed the oil 3 times now since the flush. The first time with 10W-40, then 20W-50, and now 5W-20. I did remove the little "cap" from the secondary slot on the connector last night, in effect "venting" the plug. Drove this car to work this morning and did not get any oil light....however; it is much colder outside today than yesterday, and the car is also running cooler. The oil light usually only came on when the car was running warmer, right before the fan would kick on.

Will keep monitoring it.



How do you get the cap off the sending unit?

Edited by acreman, January 17, 2010 at 06:09 pm.


#16 dmwagner

dmwagner
  • Active Member
  • 83 posts

Posted January 18, 2010 at 02:25 pm

My 3.2L had this problem as well. I finally just took it into a shop so they could test the pressure and replace the sender if it that was it. Turned out, pressure was fine, sender was bad.

If I would have had time, I would have just picked up a cheapo gauge and tested my pressure that way myself.

#17 Emculate

Emculate
  • Inactive
  • 6 posts

Posted August 15, 2011 at 09:12 am

I have an 2005 sebring 2.7L And Im having that problem right now. I replaced the sending unit, but the prblem still exist. Does the water pump have anything to do with this. I was told I have a small leak, which Im replacing this weekend. Should I replace the termostate, and oil pump to. I've only had the car for 3 weeks. Brought for 4600. Im hoping I didnt make an bad investment. Also, should I use only Mopar replacement parts.

Thanks, for any help. E. Mc

#18 Emculate

Emculate
  • Inactive
  • 6 posts

Posted August 15, 2011 at 01:28 pm

Also my idling speed is at 500 rpms (low) I would like it to idle at 750 rpms. any idea on whats causing the low idle speed?

#19 B10alia

B10alia
  • Active Member
  • 1,686 posts

Posted August 15, 2011 at 03:52 pm

Check codes-- turn the key to ON without starting the engine and back to OFF three times within 5 seconds. If you have a digital odometer, you will get either a P-code or a two digit number, if not, your ck eng light will blink-- for example, 5 blinks, a pause and another 5 is code 55, the "end of stored codes" code. This might help pinpoint the idle speed issue.

Edited by B10alia, August 15, 2011 at 03:56 pm.


#20 AC TC

AC TC
  • Active Member
  • 1,523 posts

Posted August 17, 2011 at 07:28 am

The thicker oils, were they HDEO (diesel) oils?
Using an oil designied for big rig usage will gently clean your engine
and they also have a much higher HTHS value than passcar oil.
Using xw-40/50 oils in an engine speced for 0w-20 maybe a bit harsh but you
can substitute 1/3-1/2 of the oil fill with HDEO esp if you find Rotella 10w-30 at the store.
Dont bother searching for syn HDEO oil since they all have to meet the same spec, go for API specs
CI or higher and an API spec of SL.
The HDEO is cheap but may come in a gallon bottle or 20-25 quart can wich can be anoying.
(i use 4 or so of these cans every year so i dont mind and the price is about 1/4 compared with of the shelf passcar oil)


.
Allpar

Home · Cars · Engines · Repairs · People
Tool and Car Reviews · News

Please read the terms of use and privacy policy. We are not affiliated with Chrysler Group, makers of cars, minivans, trucks, and Mopar (TM) parts. We make no guarantees regarding validity or applicability of information, opinions, or advice. Posts may be edited and used in other parts of allpar.com and affiliated Mopar (Dodge, Chrysler, etc) car related sites. We have the right to remove or modify any message, and to ban or suspend any user without notice. Logos and site-specific information copyright © 2001-2013 Allpar LLC; Chrysler PR materials remain property of Chrysler Group.