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Edelbrock 318 Intakes


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12 replies to this topic

#1 72coronet

72coronet
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Posted December 25, 2009 at 04:35 pm

I've got a couple of questions pertaining to Edelbrock intakes for the stock , small port 318 LA motor :

1. Are the so-called "Street Master Small Port 318 " manifolds still available ? I realise that Edelbrock hasn't made them in many years ; but , I'm trying to find one via craigslist , et.al.

2. What brand of carb is recommended for this intake with a stock profile broom handle cam ?

3. Will the intakes for the 340 / 360 head motors "fit" the stock 318 two bbl heads ? I know that it'll bolt-on ; but what about the mismatched ports ?

I'm on a virtually non-existent budget , so I'm looking for the 'easy' way out on an intake upgrade .
This is for my daily driver '72 Coronet , with its stock , untouched-but-in-solid-condition 318 ( I did , however , replace the head gaskets ( etc. ) back in May . The bores looked great ; hardly any ridge at the top of the bores , and the crosshatch was still
noticeable! )

I'm eventually going to replace that lame cam with an R.V.-profile cam ( basically , more lift @ the same duration ) and new lifters ; a new roller timing chain will also be a part of the deal .

Any help / direction is greatly appreciated Posted Image
Posted Image Posted Image

#2 Rodger

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Posted December 26, 2009 at 03:36 pm

Happy Holidays "Moderly New".

Soooo, you have a 1972 LA-318. It seems as
if you are doing a "step - by - step" as funds
permit. No problem if this is the plan of
attack for that is what happens here too.
**************************************************
For now I would not look at other intakes
and carbs.
**************************************************

As you plan for "the parking lot of dream's",
remember the LA-318 was a Bread and Butter
Engine that MoPar sold more of than any other
MoPar V8. It is a Engine Version of that TV
Commercial of the Battery that keeps on ticking.

From the LA-318's birth to the end it was a
continueing up-grade of the Heads. The
Engineer's did this and that to stay at the peak
for what the Smog Lords wanted and the public
got.

You can keep your heads and have the local
machine shop cut the valve part's to accept
the standard any year LA-360 Valves. This all
that you need to do at their shop. The LA-360
heads using the same size of vales will out
flow the 318 heads. The 340 or 360 heads
on your engine will "drown" your lil 318
below 80 MPH.

If you must change MoPar LA-318 Heads, look
for a set of 1987-1990 carbed heads from any
car , van or MoPar truck in the local pick
& pull. The Head Casting which ends with
302 is the ones for your carb'd LA-318. Due
to funds or weather, you can get one head now.
Replace the Valve Guides & Valve Seats with
new ones and the other head next time.
*************************************************

Your local NAPA sells a # 22599 Muffler.

This permits the above to happen because it
permits the "air pump of the engine" to flow.
Keep the same diameter size of the Exh Pipes
from the opening of the Exhaust Manifolds to
the muffler. This one muffler with the single
tail-pipe will act as good as a proper used
dual exhaust and it is at one half the cost
( no second muffler and second exh system ).
*************************************************

There is more that one can address on, but
lunch with my wife is starting to happen.


Rodger & Gabby
COS

#3 mountainrich

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Posted December 26, 2009 at 04:32 pm

I've got an SP2P intake on a 360. It's actually a 318 SP2P. I actually like it alot. W/ the 360 heads- no chance for reversion but on the 318 you may have to check the port matching. You can sometimes find this on e-bay. They were made for two or four barrels. They're usually $100 or less but hard to find.

For $25 you can get an HEI module and a dizzy's about $15 from the yards. Springs are >$1 and you could recurve it yourself. Just find one w/ a reluctor and adjustable vacuum advance. The adjustable vacuum advance will have a hexagonal (nut-looking) form right next to the vacuum line port.

Do a search for recurving- it's easy- though you may have to tinker to get it right for all applications.

PS What Rodger is telling you is right. The dizzy info is very cheap to do. A simple carb rebuild is also easy if you're up to it.
318 is a very good motor- NOT a race motor. I've seen them go 2-300K taking care of them.

Edited by mountainrich, December 26, 2009 at 04:38 pm.


#4 72coronet

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Posted December 27, 2009 at 01:48 pm

Thanks for the replies , everyone :D !

Just to recap : this is for my stock , daily driver '72 Coronet . Stock 2 bbl motor ; stock 904 ( with Trans-Go TF-1 kit ) ; stock 8.25" diff with 2.71's .

I'm not looking for a hot rod with this car ; I'm simply looking to upgrade from that measly 2 bbl carb and its heavy cast iron intake , with thoughts of better mileage , more low-end torque , and better passing power .

Truly , IF I had the funds , I'd build a 360 / 727 for it without hesitation ; however , @ $9.30 / hour ( keep in mind that I live in "can't tax the blue collar working class enough" California , so this wage isn't 5H1T ! ) , I'm lucky to keep the car simply running !

I'm planning to ad an R.V.-profile cam as well ( which I can procure from work , where I can also grab a new , small 4 bbl carb ) .


#5 Rodger

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Posted December 27, 2009 at 03:46 pm

Sir

I think I understood what you was asking for in your first post.

The # 22599 Muffler from NAPA is about as stock appearing as
one can get, and still have a MPG and HP increase. It opens
up the exhaust system so that it may "breath better".

The same type of muffler started being used in the middle
60's on Dodge Trucks. It later appeared on the Dodge V10's,
the go-fast Durango's and Dakota's. Call or stop by several
muffler shops and ask what vehicle's ( any brand and any
version ) that use a dual in-let/single out-let muffler.

Also do the same with several "Dyno Shop's".

No matter how strong you think you are, you are nothing if
you can not breath. Adding a higher costing SP2P intake
manifold to your engine with the same choked up exhaust
system is like trying to walk up a gravel hill ( two steps
up and slide back some ).

Your Factory Exhaust Manifolds have proven to permit 300 HP
@ over 5,000 RPM's. They do not need to be touched. It is
the removing of the choking factory's "y" pipe from the
vehicle.

Another item for you to address is the removal of the power
hungry four paddle Cooling Fan and ex-change it for a 1979
or newer Cooling Fan. At the local pick & pull this is a
under $10 item. When you do this the hard mounted fan unit
will go bye-bye. Get a Thermo Silicone Fan Drive ( not
Silicone Fan Drive ). This unit was used by MoPar ( and
every other maker ) due to a better MPG item.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
In later years sometimes MoPar bolted the 360 heads to the
lil 318. The factory 4 bbl's from the 80's are really 360
unit's bolted to the 318. This was dropped in favor of
the better flowing #302 Heads. Sooo, this is just a
"retro fit" to your 1972 spec'd engine, to make it OK
with all. The intake/carb and heads should not be touched
until you swap the cam.


Rodger & Gabby
COS

#6 72coronet

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Posted December 27, 2009 at 05:45 pm

Thanks , Rodger .
I wasn't implying that you weren't aware of my initial post ; I was simply reiterating its contents for the benefit of those whom may have skipped to the most-recent postings .

My 'Net has ( actually , 'had' ... ) factory a/c , and thereby has the 7 blade fan , fan shroud and thermal-drive clutch fan .
I just replaced the original clutch this past Summer !
Regardless , thanks for the tip . It's one that I , too , mention to fellow MoParites whose cars still have that dumb direct-drive fan setup .

Thanks for the muffler and exhaust system suggestion !
I do definately plan on replacing the factory-installed single pipe and well-worn muffler .

I actually work at a NAPA store !
I buy everything that I can there , as their employee pricing is unbeatable !
I'm going through them for the new cam / lifters / timing chain for my 'Net . I'm getting an R.V.-profile cam .
Even at that , there are certain things which I refuse to buy at any auto parts store : motor / trans mounts ( Chinese garbage , regardless of which store you buy 'em at !! ) being the primary example . Schumaker is the only way to go on motor & trans mounts . They're 100% made in the U.S. ; they're top notch !

Thanks again , Rodger !

#7 Rodger

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Posted December 28, 2009 at 01:55 pm

Sir

In the 1972 era most makers had a std four paddle
Cooling Fan and a more HD design. Either way they
used the engine's power all the time. The Thermo
Silicone Fan Drive has been used by the Imperial
Division since about 1964/66. Then MoPar Perf
published the Thermo Silicone Fan Drive's stop
using power starting at about 1,500 RPM's. By
1979/80 every MoPar had this Fan Drive and the
hard drive mounted power eating unit was a thing
of the past.

PT II
When any MoPar had A/C in the 1972 era, they
used a seven paddle Cooling Fan. The low end
vehicles still used the hard mounted mounted
seven paddle unit. The next higher version's
used the Silicone Fan Drive with a seven paddle
unit. Skip a couple of "inter-med" version's
and the best of the best was the Thermo Silicone
Fan Drive with a better designed seven paddle
Cooling Fan. After the 1979/80 year the low
end version's used a five Paddle Cooling Fan
that had a better design of pulling air at a
lower energy level. This newer five blade fan
also did this at a lower audio level. The higher
end vehicles used a seven paddle version of the
five paddle unit.

This means the newer 1979/80 Cooling Fan Unit
which is below $10 at most pick & pulls will
offer a better cooling and better MPG ( since
it uses less HP ) while cruising I-15 or I-80
to get to Reno's Annual "Hot August Night's".

A like or slightly smaller diameter ( aka six
cylinder with A/C )is OK. MoPar's with the Tow Pkg,
Perf Pkg and etc used a smaller diameter fan. A
larger diameter Cooling Fan can hit the inside
circle of the Fan shrould, so measure everything.


Rodger & Gabby
COS

#8 Gibons

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Posted December 30, 2009 at 02:17 am

A buddy of my dads has one of those low profile small port 318 intakes I've seen it nifty looking thing for low rpm grunt doubt you could get it out of him though. The ports on all the other intakes are larger though from say a 340-360 but to my knowledge all the factory 318 4 barrel engines simply used the factory 340-360 intake with no port matching done, I have a factory 340 intake on my 318 but I port matched them. pretty much took an old gasket put it on the heads color'd it out to match the gasket on both heads and intake and round the ports to match the coloring. It doesn't sound like you plan on pulling the heads though.

#9 Rodger

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Posted December 31, 2009 at 11:30 pm

Hello Sir

I was wondering around the internet and found
this site which has the 1972 Dodge Coronet
Dealers Brochure.

http://www.lov2xlr8....oro/72coro.html

Now you can see what your "family sedan"
looked as in yester-year and what was offered
as a option.

I saw the Tow Package was offered ( A-727
Transmission ... same spec's as the Taxi and
Police Pkg, 3.2:1 Rear Axle ... same spec's
as Police Pkg, Big AMP Alternator and Battery
... same spec's as the Taxi, A/C and Police
Pkg, Thermo Silicone Fan Drive and Seven
Paddle Cooling Fan ... the same spec's as A/C,
The larger Radiator and HD Water Pump ... the
same spec's as the Taxi, the Police Pkg and A/C ).

Happy Reading


Rodger & Gabby
COS

#10 Volunteer

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Posted January 1, 2010 at 01:13 am

To make a long story a bit shorter, one of my earlier Challengers was a '74 Rallye 318. It already had a good dual exhaust system, with 'garden-variety' turbo mufflers, running off the (small) factory manifolds. All I did was to purchase and install the factory chrome tips and dual rear valance. There was a very firm shift kit in the (column-shift) 904. I converted to the OEM style console and slap-stick. The engine with 62K. miles was all stock and still strong. I installed the (340) factory cam, lifters and timing set. The heads, intake, exhaust and carb never came off. The (8.75") 'open-style' 2.76 carrier was replaced with a 3.23" S.G. at the same time.
Prior to all this, the car would pull alright but basically run out of breath at around 4300 at 105 mph. After the changes, my top speed increased to 113 at 5100. I never 'tweeked' the distributor but did open-up the carb jets slightly. I recall accelerating to 92 mph at just short of two city blocks.(back then it was actually 'fun' to drive).
Anyway, to get to the point, since your Coronet is a little 'plumper' than an E-body, consider a gear swap to the factory 3.21's or rarer 3.55's. With tire diameter around 26.5 to 27 inches the numeric ratio will not be affected.
Without knowing your intended cam specs we can only speculate about what the power curve will be like but regardless, an upgrade to a small 4-Bbl. will definitely be an improvement. Without any head work, I would suggest you locate an Edelbrock Performer 318/360 such as PN. 2176. Little known fact about this intake is that the port dimensions are LARGER than the stock 318 but SMALLER than the stock 340-360. I know this because I measured all of them many years ago. The Performer will accept either square or spread-bore carbs. If seeking the 'former', stay within the 500-600 cfm range. The earlier 600 Vac. Holley is a good choice. If you go this route, use the larger (compo.) side gaskets and SOFT front/rear pieces. (Do NOT mess around with the more common thick cork-rubber type). The OEM (f/r) gasket pieces were of a soft, spongy material and there is at least one manufacturer that still uses them. They seal very well with a good RTV silicone. I personally do not like any type of engine leaks and build and guarantee my engine to not leak (from any gasket) for the first 4 years.
Often overlooked (when replacing the BBD) is the need for bigger air cleaner.
Since your car should be well setup for cooling there would be no need for upgrades here. Just make sure the rad is clean and use a new (180 or 195) thermostat and maybe a water pump.
Projects such as yours have been discussed on this Forum since day-one but one important bit of advice to keep in mind is to always remember that, no matter how radical or expensive the suggestions become, the final decisions (and the $ you 'invest') will come from you, not one of us. good luck.

#11 72coronet

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Posted January 1, 2010 at 10:38 am

Prolific -
Thanks much for your reply and its well-thought and applied contents .

Thanks much to Rodger for his continuous updates and informative replies and info .

In my initial post , I ostensibly neglected to mention the obvious necessities ; the new air cleaner assembly ; the cooling system upgrades ; and all other items :facepalm: .

Nevertheless , I've decided on the following upgrades :

- Factory cast iron 340 / 360 manifold ( one of my customers from work is going to grab one from the 'local' pick-a-part today . Very nice of him ! ) .

- 600 cfm Edelbrock AVS-style carb with electric choke

- 340 / H.P. 360 cam & new lifters ( I replaced the rocker arms , shafts and pushrods a couple of months ago )

- Roller timing chain

- Open element air cleaner ( I'm going to strip its chrome and paint it Chrysler Engine Orange )

- Stock exhaust manifolds

- Dual 2" exhaust with turn-downs , no tips ( like the factory 340 / 383 / 400 / 440 cars with the 'Cleaner Air Package )

- The mufflers that Rodger suggested

The factory-installed 2.71's are just fine ; however , I'll eventually upgrade to 3.21's , which will stay in the factory 8.25" diff .

Thanks again for all of your help guys ! :group:


#12 Volunteer

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Posted January 4, 2010 at 12:54 am

I would like to know how you made out with the intake. As soon as I read your latest post, the first thing that came to my mind was that "there is no such thing as a 340/360 intake manifold" - at least in the literal sense. Technically, the 340 intake was available in the 'square-flange' configuration from 1968 thru 1970. From 1971 thru 1973 (the last year for 340) this intake was of the 'spread-bore' configuration. The 360 engine did not receive a 4Bbl intake until the '74 model year so all carburetted (4Bbl) 360 intakes through the seventies and into the late eighties were all of the spread bore design. The only carbs you could fit on them were the Carter/Rochester Thermo-quads (and a limited family of Holleys). The factory T.Q.'s were generally of two sizes., very big and very, very big. The minimum CFM value would (conservatively) be 750. A 500-600 CFM (square-flange) carb should NOT be adapted to any (factory spread-bore) intake.
If you do go with one of the factory cast intakes, please remember that the ports of the intake are significantly larger (mostly in height) than the stock 318 ports. I would not recommend installing it without matching (the ports) otherwise the inevitable 'reversion' of the intake air flow will inhibit the efficiency and overall performance potential. With your heads installed on the block it will be difficult, though not impossible, to enlarge the head-ports appropriately.
Please describe your intake and/or post the casting number. Until then I will stay with my original suggestion that you seek out a Performer-style intake. I had a brand new one that I sold only a year ago for $150. Used ones should be much cheaper and are still out there.

#13 Bearhawke

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Posted January 12, 2010 at 08:46 am

I would like to know how you made out with the intake. As soon as I read your latest post, the first thing that came to my mind was that "there is no such thing as a 340/360 intake manifold" - at least in the literal sense. Technically, the 340 intake was available in the 'square-flange' configuration from 1968 thru 1970. From 1971 thru 1973 (the last year for 340) this intake was of the 'spread-bore' configuration. The 360 engine did not receive a 4Bbl intake until the '74 model year so all carburetted (4Bbl) 360 intakes through the seventies and into the late eighties were all of the spread bore design. The only carbs you could fit on them were the Carter/Rochester Thermo-quads (and a limited family of Holleys). The factory T.Q.'s were generally of two sizes., very big and very, very big. The minimum CFM value would (conservatively) be 750. A 500-600 CFM (square-flange) carb should NOT be adapted to any (factory spread-bore) intake.
If you do go with one of the factory cast intakes, please remember that the ports of the intake are significantly larger (mostly in height) than the stock 318 ports. I would not recommend installing it without matching (the ports) otherwise the inevitable 'reversion' of the intake air flow will inhibit the efficiency and overall performance potential. With your heads installed on the block it will be difficult, though not impossible, to enlarge the head-ports appropriately.
Please describe your intake and/or post the casting number. Until then I will stay with my original suggestion that you seek out a Performer-style intake. I had a brand new one that I sold only a year ago for $150. Used ones should be much cheaper and are still out there.


Starting 1978: Mopar made the 318 with that '340/360' 4V spreadbore intake mandatory on cars sold in California and I believe the heads were the same as on the 2V Federal cars. Admittedly; by 1984 the 318 2V everywhere was the rule with the 4V option police only in passenger cars.


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