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Slant six manifold replacement


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6 replies to this topic

#1 dutchtower

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Posted June 9, 2010 at 07:42 am

I have a '63 dart with a 225 slant six that burned the metal gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds. I got it apart and had a machine shop get the burned off bolt from the exhaust manifold. Is there an article on replacing this? I am a little nervous as I'm not real experienced. I would buy a complete maintenance manual if that was in there.

Also one of the triangular washers and one stud is broken off and the cup washer and locking nut are missing and someone. Okay, I admit it. another stud broke off after I got it all together and it warmed up. I had torqued that one to 35 ft-lb as recommended on the gasket set. Are these parts available or can they be replaced with something else?

Is this replacement a local mechanic (I gave up) going to understand or should I get him a manual?

Lots of questions.
Thanks in advance.
TT

#2 valiant67

valiant67

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Posted June 9, 2010 at 08:15 am

This would be a good time to get a factory service manual for the car. The main things it will include are the proper torque specs and, if necessary, the sequence in which they should be torqued. Sometimes you must start in the middle and work your way out. Usually the procedure includes steps such as what else to remove to accomplish the repair.
I'd look on eBay for a 1963 Dodge service manual, like this example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item5885f01410
Any decent mechanic should be able to perform this repair, but I'd feel better if it was my car if I could provide the torque specs to the mechanic unless the mechanic has access to this older information.

#3 Rodger

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Posted June 9, 2010 at 09:07 am

Sir

while you are asking us questions and waiting for replies,
stop at NAPA to get the In-Take Manifold to Exhaust
Manifold Gasket Set, the long bolts/studs and every stud
that is screwed into the Head which either holds on the
In-Take Manifold part or the Exhaust Manifold Part.

Install and tighten all studs as they should be.

DO NOT tighen any bolt or stud to the Manifolds until both
items are loose-ly bolted/mounted to the Engine head.

As you tighten the pattern is from the center to the out-ter
in circular waves of pressure. This means tighten all to
fifteen pounds and when finished make the pass at twenty five
and to always tighten equal from the middle to out-side equal
in both sides as you progress.

When the In-Take Manifold and the Exhaust Manifold is fully
tightened to the Head, then tighten the In-Take to the Exhaust
( in waves using the same pattern ).

This information is the same from the 1946 Flat Head to the last
225 taken apart.


Rodger & Gabby
COS

#4 68RT

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Posted June 9, 2010 at 09:14 am

The first thing on a /6 is to be sure that the exhaust manifold is not warped (common problem) where it bolts to the head. Then I liked to lightly clamp the intake and exhaust manifold to the head and tighten the bolts slowly and evenly between the intake and exhaust to half torque and then bolt the manifold to the head (full torque) and then finish the tightening of the intake to exhaust. Unless both are surfaced on a milling machine to perfect 90 degree angles, there is going to be a slight imperfection in the gasket compression on the intake to exhaust and the head to intake/exhaust bolts are stronger than the 4 bolts between. You should be able to find a pick-a-part cup washer and nuts should be available at parts houses if not at the pick-a*part.

#5 Bob Lincoln

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Posted June 9, 2010 at 09:15 am

The torque spec for the bolts from the head to the intake-exhaust manifold set is 10 ft-lbs. 35 will definitely break bolts and studs.

I'd buy a junkyard set of intake-exhaust manifolds rather than separate them and fix them. And be sure to free up the heat riser valve for proper operation.

#6 dutchtower

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Posted June 10, 2010 at 07:57 am

Thanks for all of your help. I will see if I can glean enough to talk sensibly to the mechanic. Thanks again.

#7 318a833o/d

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Posted June 11, 2010 at 12:26 am

Bob is right, my /6's have '10 ft.pounds only-do not overtighten' clearly cast in big letters on the in manifold. I tightened mine a bit more, by feel, as threads were rusty; hard to believe 10 would hold, what with the way they shake.
most public libraries still have repair manuals; you can photo copy the parts you need.


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