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Flathead Six Rear Main Seal


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Meadowbrook

Meadowbrook
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  • 47 posts

Posted July 7, 2010 at 10:12 am

Hello, all.

I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 1950 Meadowbrook.

Any tips would be welcome.

Looks like I need to pull the trans, clutch, fluid drive unit and unbolt some little seal 'carrier' that holds a face seal. There are also 2 little pieces that look like they fit around the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.

Do I need to pull the pan?

Thanks.

#2 68RT

68RT
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  • 4,603 posts

Posted July 7, 2010 at 11:04 am

Going by memory now. I don't believe you are correct. Almost all cars of that era used a wick like material with half in the upper and half in the lower. You had to drop the pan and rear main bearing cap to access and change the seal. You used to be able to purchase a chinese finger arrangement to pull the new seal into place on the top half (bottom is easy to change)and the hard thing was to cut the seal off flush without nicking the crank. I have seen an alternate solution where thin shims were snaked behind the old seal to force the upper down tighter against the crank. Seemed to work satisfactorily. Some took an easier route of replacing the bottom only and leaving the ends a bit extra long which was then forced up into the upper to distort it tighter. Ineither case, the bottom or top is left a bit long but cannot get caught between the face of the block and lower bearing half. I would recommend a face shield during this process as oil dripping onto the face sucks.

#3 dana44

dana44
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  • 16,625 posts

Posted July 9, 2010 at 10:57 pm

The name of the tool to get is called a "sneaky pete", and it will be a wick type seal, soak it in oil for a few minutes before pulling it through, it is a little messy but helps.

#4 Meadowbrook

Meadowbrook
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  • 47 posts

Posted July 12, 2010 at 10:24 am

Hi.

I did pull the rear main seal and it came in 2 pieces, an upper and lower assembly, each consisting of a metal plate with the 3 bolt holes and a rubber 1/2 circle @ the edge that was the actual seal.

Also, it looks like I will need to loosen the rear main bearing cap because there are 2 little inserts that are between the bearing halves that must seal the area where the 2 seal halves meet.

Also, the manual says the new seal must be loosely assembled to the bearing before re torquing the cap.

#5 dana44

dana44
  • Active Member
  • 16,625 posts

Posted July 13, 2010 at 01:46 am

Hi.

I did pull the rear main seal and it came in 2 pieces, an upper and lower assembly, each consisting of a metal plate with the 3 bolt holes and a rubber 1/2 circle @ the edge that was the actual seal.

Also, it looks like I will need to loosen the rear main bearing cap because there are 2 little inserts that are between the bearing halves that must seal the area where the 2 seal halves meet.

Also, the manual says the new seal must be loosely assembled to the bearing before re torquing the cap.

OOOOPS, back further in design than I we were thinking, I admit forgetting about that style.

#6 68RT

68RT
  • Active Member
  • 4,603 posts

Posted July 13, 2010 at 02:54 pm

Much better than the wick design. I never cease to be amazed at how advanced Chrysler products were in comparison to most. They really spent time engineering excellence.


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