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p0700 p1776 p0351 p0352 codes


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Ed D

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Posted October 27, 2010 at 10:39 pm

97 GC 3.8L 180K - rebuilt trans 2 years ago. p1776 p351 p352 p0700 in that order

I was accelerating hard from a dead stop and about 30 mph it bucked and shutdown. I rolled to a stop and could not restart. No chk eng light.

Towed it home and pulled the codes. It seems anyone else only gets p0700 & p1776 and that would be a solenoid pack and maybe a TCM. I thought I should have been able to get a restart and limp home if it was just a trans code problem. Now I have had previous P351 etc. codes and it was always a connection problem with the coil. A re connect usually fixed it.

Is there any reason that i got all these codes at once or is it just coincidence? If so then I have 2 seperate problems. I am getting a new solenoid pack and then check coil connection again.

#2 JusBringIt (converted)

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Posted October 27, 2010 at 11:00 pm

The codes were just stored and may not all have come at the same time. I've had codes with no display (no cel) so that's not out of the ordinary. This coil problem not being properly fixed initially could have caused the transmission issue. The bucking could have triggered the solenoid code.

#3 Ed D

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Posted October 27, 2010 at 11:23 pm

The codes were just stored and may not all have come at the same time. I've had codes with no display (no cel) so that's not out of the ordinary. This coil problem not being properly fixed initially could have caused the transmission issue. The bucking could have triggered the solenoid code.



so get it running again first ( coil problem ) and then see if it is still a trans problem? I see that logic.

#4 JusBringIt (converted)

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Posted October 27, 2010 at 11:45 pm

so get it running again first ( coil problem ) and then see if it is still a trans problem? I see that logic.


That's basically what I'm suggesting. After getting it running, you should be able to notice any transmission issue. If no issue, have the car scanned again after 200 miles to see if there are any hidden codes(usually the check engine light appears and then disappears). If none, then you should be all set. I cannot say for sure whether or not the coil issue caused permanent solenoid damage however.

#5 ImperialCrown

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Posted October 28, 2010 at 03:35 am

It may not be the ignition coil itself that has failed. If the stall occurs when that particular winding in the coil should fire, it can set the P035x fault.
P1776 isn't automatically a sol pack failure, you need a diagnostic procedure book to follow for an answer. P0700 is just the PCM saying that a code is stored in the TCM.

#6 Ed D

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Posted October 28, 2010 at 09:23 am

I went through 2 previous coil replacements and still kept getting no starts and cel/codes. I worked on connector and codes went away previously. The connector & length of wire to connector are suspect and I may have to get another from the scrap yard and patch it in. I still won't rule out another coil. thanks

#7 Ed D

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Posted October 30, 2010 at 11:33 pm

I went through 2 previous coil replacements and still kept getting no starts and cel/codes. I worked on connector and codes went away previously. The connector & length of wire to connector are suspect and I may have to get another from the scrap yard and patch it in. I still won't rule out another coil. thanks


Drum roll please...................... :rimshot: it was a 20A engine fuse in the under the hood box.
Codes clear and running fine again........... :facepalm:

#8 Mick M

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Posted October 31, 2010 at 12:45 am

Good. It was simple and easy to fix. sounds like a great day.
Mick

#9 Ed D

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Posted October 31, 2010 at 07:44 pm

Good. It was simple and easy to fix. sounds like a great day.
Mick


Well not so easy. I drove it around town and it was fine. I then i took it for a beat run - hard acceleration (like the time it quit on me).

3rd time it quit. I put many fuses in and it blows every one when I turn ignition on. I get P0351/353 codes each time. I disconnected coil and same result. I jiggled wires near coil etc. no good.

I am studying the wire diagram to see where to go next. The transmission ran and shifted fine and no more trans codes..

#10 JusBringIt (converted)

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Posted October 31, 2010 at 09:11 pm

Glad the trans codes are gone. Elec. power cutting out while there is power to the wheels can do severe damage.

Sounds like you have a short elsewhere.

#11 John Wood

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Posted November 1, 2010 at 06:15 am

Check your wiring harness and pigtail leads for any wire insulation that may have rubbed through. Particularly check the wires going to the O2 sensor (front unit and rear unit). The heater wiring for the O2 sensors is on the same fuse as the coil primary wires.

#12 Ed D

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Posted November 2, 2010 at 01:29 am

Front O2 sensor - I unplugged sensor and found wires in harness side twisted almost 360 degrees. I couldn't tell if they were shorted but the connector had been laying on exhaust manifold. I uncoiled and spread apart added new fuse and starts right up.

I will have to dig into harness repair.

#13 Frank G

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Posted November 2, 2010 at 01:36 am

Front O2 sensor - I unplugged sensor and found wires in harness side twisted almost 360 degrees. I couldn't tell if they were shorted but the connector had been laying on exhaust manifold. I uncoiled and spread apart added new fuse and starts right up.

I will have to dig into harness repair.


Nice work, Ed! Hope this did the trick. Have one on me. :cheers:

#14 Ed D

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Posted November 2, 2010 at 11:06 am

Nice work, Ed! Hope this did the trick. Have one on me. :cheers:


I have to give credit to you all in leading me in the right direction ! Love the Larry picture

Edited by Ed D, November 2, 2010 at 11:06 am.


#15 Ed D

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Posted November 22, 2010 at 12:13 am

I have to give credit to you all in leading me in the right direction ! Love the Larry picture



It was a section of harness upstream of the O2 sensors by exhaust manifold. It had on wire that was shorting against the manifold. Patched it and now running fine.


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