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47 plymouth update chassis

47 special deluxe

36 replies to this topic

#21 dana44

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Posted October 19, 2011 at 10:31 am

Was the 47 missing the whole frame, or what? I would think that connecting the front subrame to the existing frame would not at any point require frame connectors at all. If welding instead of bolting the front subrame onto the existing frame, a plate top and bottom yes, but subframe? I am at a loss as to how you are doing this swap portion.

#22 OldBill

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Posted October 21, 2011 at 04:20 am

I am using the entire drive train, suspension, brakes, wiring harness, A/C and floor pan from the chrysler. Tied the subframes front to rear. The 47 frame and worn out suspension goes to the scrap yard. I am planning a 5,000 mile trip in 2013 and I want all the amenities!

#23 dana44

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Posted October 21, 2011 at 09:52 am

I would have gone with the 47 frame from about the firewall back, but as long as you have frame ties that are sturdy enough to hold it all together, it will work, just the hard way as far as strength goes. From there, are you cutting your floorboards out and adjusting/altering the Cordoba floorpan to fit within the body width/edges of the 47 and welding them really good? Sounds like a plan, all the amenitites is always a plus.

#24 OldBill

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Posted May 29, 2012 at 05:17 am

This thing has been stalled for the last 2 months due to my attempt to do my own Sandblasting of the body.. Bought a Smith Compressor - Circa 1970 100cfm w/ buick V6 power to do the rust removal. After only 6 bags of sand and one door and one fender cleaned, the compressor quit. Parts for the machine are no longer available... Making my own air valve repair kit. In retrospect, I should have just paid the "professionals" $1100 and been ahead of the game. Hope to be back in the sandblasting mode in 3-4 weeks... and no, I do not plan on making this a business. Its tough to learn lessons at my age.

#25 Bearhawke

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Posted May 29, 2012 at 11:18 pm

This thing has been stalled for the last 2 months due to my attempt to do my own Sandblasting of the body.. Bought a Smith Compressor - Circa 1970 100cfm w/ buick V6 power to do the rust removal. After only 6 bags of sand and one door and one fender cleaned, the compressor quit. Parts for the machine are no longer available... Making my own air valve repair kit. In retrospect, I should have just paid the "professionals" $1100 and been ahead of the game. Hope to be back in the sandblasting mode in 3-4 weeks... and no, I do not plan on making this a business. Its tough to learn lessons at my age.


You may be able to recoup your expenses by selling that ol' Buick/Jeep 225 V6; they still have a following with some of the Jeepers as well as people restoring 1960's Skylarks. :)

#26 OldBill

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Posted May 30, 2012 at 09:04 am

Selling the Buick V6 isn't likely as there is only one cylinder head, the other is the Smith compressor head, so its pretty much useless except as a compressor. Still hoping to get it back up to pressure again.

#27 OldBill

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Posted September 3, 2012 at 06:51 am

Rented a rotary compressor from the local equipment rental yard. Awesome pressure, 185 cfm, already used 14 bags of sand and it looks like I will need more! Sand revealing more holes than I first imagined. Good thing I've got a wire welder... Regarding my replacement 360 motor, still can't find anyone who has seen the 1 cam cover plate bolt with a hole in it for my 360 motor. I hate to button it up without that. Starting to brace the body with new steel in the rockers, running boards, crossbrace above the differential and at the rear of the trunk. Also struggling with the window mechanisms in the back seat. There must be a trick to getting them out? Found my digital camera in the tool box. will try to post some new pic's soon.

#28 dana44

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Posted September 3, 2012 at 06:29 pm

Yes, you will use a lot of sand, hopefully you have some kind of shelter that can catch the sand, you can sweep it up and sift it to reuse without a problem. The finer the sand becomes the better it blasts, based on experience I had from my early childhood and some slight commercial sandblasting I did. Stings a lot less, too!

#29 OldBill

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Posted September 18, 2012 at 06:20 am

After sandblasting and a quick primer coat to keep the rust down I now realize I must replace the bottom 3" of most of the body sheet metal. It is all just too thin! I am real thankful for the local trailer and steel building mfgr (J&I). They have lots of steel shapes that work real well in replacing the body bracing on the car. I have to figure out how to put some of my pictures on this topic. It appears I will have to condense them a lot to post them and I am not sure they will have enough detail to explain some of my efforts/issues.

#30 dana44

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Posted September 18, 2012 at 11:31 pm

I had a similar thing happen to my 39 Nash. I sandblasted it, primed it, then over the next five years it sat outside behind the garage in Washington State. Needless to say, sand which had collected in the body between the door and the wheelwells did rust through, collecting moisture, rainwater, moss, mosquitoes, you name it, and it did rust through a little bit in these areas, so I did have to replace it. Sitting inside several years, I didn't even realize the sand was there. At least your holes allowed you to realize it will need to be cleaned out.

#31 OldBill

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Posted October 1, 2012 at 06:21 am

Getting into suspension issues with the cordoba chassis. The Cordoba springs are too long for the Plymouth body. The old plymouth springs are not usable. I would like to find a set of springs that would fit, but getting a list of springs available with dimensions has gone nowhere. My dad used to work at a place that repaired and re-arched springs. I wonder if I could find someone who could shorten the Cordoba Springs? I need them to be about 6" shorter. I can be flexible as I can adust the rear spring hanger connection to fit, as long as it doesn't go out too far. Next step is the power brake booster which is too close to the hood spring. I am concerned that the relocation may throw off the petal mount connection... I still haven't figured out how to attach pictures to these topics.

#32 dana44

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Posted October 1, 2012 at 12:00 pm

Leaf springs are not shortenable (if that's a word). What you do is take the original long leaf with the eyelets in it and change the other shorter support springs. There is a centering bolt that holds them together, use a C clamp to hold the spring stack together, remove the bolt, then loosen the C clamp to get them apart. The shorter springs can be added to replace the worn leaves and the only real rule is do not allow the first spring under the eyelet leaf to be within an inch and a half to two inches of the eyelets. I have changed the leaves this way on several cars and it works fine. When the leaves are apart you can clean them and add new slider plates/insulation as needed to keep them from squeaking. Just make sure the replacement leaves are the same width, and replace the bushings in the ends, it helps in handling afterwards.

#33 OldBill

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Posted January 9, 2013 at 05:19 pm

Leaf springs are not shortenable (if that's a word). What you do is take the original long leaf with the eyelets in it and change the other shorter support springs. There is a centering bolt that holds them together, use a C clamp to hold the spring stack together, remove the bolt, then loosen the C clamp to get them apart. The shorter springs can be added to replace the worn leaves and the only real rule is do not allow the first spring under the eyelet leaf to be within an inch and a half to two inches of the eyelets. I have changed the leaves this way on several cars and it works fine. When the leaves are apart you can clean them and add new slider plates/insulation as needed to keep them from squeaking. Just make sure the replacement leaves are the same width, and replace the bushings in the ends, it helps in handling afterwards.

I got the spring change completed. Now the body placement is an issue. I decided to drop the body over the chassis a couple of inches. With the back tires centered in the body the front body mounts appear to be off about an inch? Or visa-versa with the front body mounts centered over the frame, the back wheels are not centered in the wheel wells? I don't know how to tell if the Chassis is off or if the body is twisted? There did not seem to be any damage with either car before the transplant started but I did not do any detailed check on the alignment.



#34 dana44

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Posted January 9, 2013 at 08:10 pm

Time to break out the tape and check length, width, and height points. Remember, offsets of the engine to one side by about an inch and a half was done in the mid sixties for balance, thus centering the appearance to a firewall can be offset, what with the full frame and floorpan. Body mounts can be adjusted.



#35 OldBill

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Posted January 20, 2013 at 06:14 am

Dana 44, The statement you made about the 1.5" offset got me thinking. Is there a place where I can see diagram of the 1975 Chrysler body locator points? I have that for the 47 Ply (P15) and it is symetrical. I just wonder about the 75 Cordoba (donor car) - maybe my offset is not an issue?

#36 dana44

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Posted January 20, 2013 at 11:06 am

A factory shop manual will give dimensions, might be able to find something online, or possibly someone that has a copy of the manual has the information you need.



#37 OldBill

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Posted April 1, 2013 at 05:42 am

Finally finished the wifes honeydew list and back on the Plymouth for a change! Got the body dropped 4" on the chassis straight (finally) and set the fenders, hood and doors in place for a test fit. More cutting required on the front frame, as it is sticking out in front of the fenders. No biggie, fire up the sawsall! I just hope I can get the Cordoba radiator to fit in when I am done? I would add some update pictures if I could figure out how?


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