47 plymouth update chassis47 special deluxe
Posted October 19, 2011 at 10:31 am
Posted October 21, 2011 at 04:20 am
Posted October 21, 2011 at 09:52 am
Posted May 29, 2012 at 05:17 am
Posted May 29, 2012 at 11:18 pm
This thing has been stalled for the last 2 months due to my attempt to do my own Sandblasting of the body.. Bought a Smith Compressor - Circa 1970 100cfm w/ buick V6 power to do the rust removal. After only 6 bags of sand and one door and one fender cleaned, the compressor quit. Parts for the machine are no longer available... Making my own air valve repair kit. In retrospect, I should have just paid the "professionals" $1100 and been ahead of the game. Hope to be back in the sandblasting mode in 3-4 weeks... and no, I do not plan on making this a business. Its tough to learn lessons at my age.
You may be able to recoup your expenses by selling that ol' Buick/Jeep 225 V6; they still have a following with some of the Jeepers as well as people restoring 1960's Skylarks.
Posted May 30, 2012 at 09:04 am
Posted September 3, 2012 at 06:51 am
Posted September 3, 2012 at 06:29 pm
Posted September 18, 2012 at 06:20 am
Posted September 18, 2012 at 11:31 pm
Posted October 1, 2012 at 06:21 am
Posted October 1, 2012 at 12:00 pm
Posted January 9, 2013 at 05:19 pm
Leaf springs are not shortenable (if that's a word). What you do is take the original long leaf with the eyelets in it and change the other shorter support springs. There is a centering bolt that holds them together, use a C clamp to hold the spring stack together, remove the bolt, then loosen the C clamp to get them apart. The shorter springs can be added to replace the worn leaves and the only real rule is do not allow the first spring under the eyelet leaf to be within an inch and a half to two inches of the eyelets. I have changed the leaves this way on several cars and it works fine. When the leaves are apart you can clean them and add new slider plates/insulation as needed to keep them from squeaking. Just make sure the replacement leaves are the same width, and replace the bushings in the ends, it helps in handling afterwards.
I got the spring change completed. Now the body placement is an issue. I decided to drop the body over the chassis a couple of inches. With the back tires centered in the body the front body mounts appear to be off about an inch? Or visa-versa with the front body mounts centered over the frame, the back wheels are not centered in the wheel wells? I don't know how to tell if the Chassis is off or if the body is twisted? There did not seem to be any damage with either car before the transplant started but I did not do any detailed check on the alignment.
Posted January 9, 2013 at 08:10 pm
Time to break out the tape and check length, width, and height points. Remember, offsets of the engine to one side by about an inch and a half was done in the mid sixties for balance, thus centering the appearance to a firewall can be offset, what with the full frame and floorpan. Body mounts can be adjusted.
Posted January 20, 2013 at 06:14 am
Posted January 20, 2013 at 11:06 am
A factory shop manual will give dimensions, might be able to find something online, or possibly someone that has a copy of the manual has the information you need.
Posted April 1, 2013 at 05:42 am