8 replies to this topic

[torgtoe]

I have now checked out the history of my new 95 2.0 Stratus. The car is carefully driven, but has never had a proper tune up (exept for headgasket).

Spark plugs and battery are new.

Car runs fine and starts easy(not perfect) when cold in the morning. Throuout the day when starting start motor have to turn 5-6 times before it starts.

Where should i fokus on slow starting issue?

Batterypoles are ok. Batterywires -i dont know. Sparkplug-wires are not new at all. Coil is old. Cat-converter has never been changed. Code 21-32-33 is still there. EGR is blocked off from import to Norway.Transduser is thou there.

Edited by torgtoe, January 31, 2012 at 04:37 pm.

[ImperialCrown]

You might want to start with a fuel pressure leakdown check. A pressure gauge that rapidly drops off to zero after shutting off the vehicle may indicate a leaky fuel injector. On a warm engine this would cause a rich restart. On a cold engine, it wouldn't cause as much of a starting problem.
Fault code 21 is for the downstream O2 sensor which controls fuel trim which could affect warm restarts if it is skewed rich.
Code 32 is the EGR that the PCM is looking for. A battery disconnect may train the PCM into thinking that it is not equipped with EGR (not all applications used an EGR). The transducer would have to be left unplugged for this.
Code 33 is no A/C.

[torgtoe]

I found some support for this you describe here - but one thing i dont understand, i have no experience with injectors-. if an injector has a leak, where is that? o-rings? must it be changed?
  ?

Edited by torgtoe, February 1, 2012 at 04:43 pm.

[digitalrailroader]

torgtoe, on February 1, 2012 at 01:02 pm, said:

I found some support for this you describe here - but one thing i dont understand, i have no experience with injectors-. if an injector has a leak, where is that? o-rings? must it be changed?
  ?

Usually, when an injector is leaking, its either the O-rings where the tip goes into the Intake manifold, or its an internal fault, requiring Injector Replacement.

ImperialCrown, on January 31, 2012 at 06:09 pm, said:

You might want to start with a fuel pressure leakdown check. A pressure gauge that rapidly drops off to zero after shutting off the vehicle may indicate a leaky fuel injector. On a warm engine this would cause a rich restart. On a cold engine, it wouldn't cause as much of a starting problem.
Fault code 21 is for the downstream O2 sensor which controls fuel trim which could affect warm restarts if it is skewed rich.
Code 32 is the EGR that the PCM is looking for. A battery disconnect may train the PCM into thinking that it is not equipped with EGR (not all applications used an EGR). The transducer would have to be left unplugged for this.
Code 33 is no A/C.

This may be a Long Shot, but a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator can also cause the fuel pressure to drop rapidly.

[ImperialCrown]

Agree.
Fuel draining back to the fuel tank after shut-off will usually cause a long cranking time on a cold engine and also to some degree on a warm engine.
The fuel pressure check valve is part of the fuel pump/regulator assembly in the tank.
A scan tool may display the fuel trim/adaptives, any large positive or negative values would indicate a problem. Within +/- 5% is OK.

Edited by ImperialCrown, February 2, 2012 at 04:19 am.

[torgtoe]

Ok - im listening. Here is my plan; first im replacing cooling sensor and evt thermostat to make sure engine not running cold. i must check all sensors and wirings

Then i will wait some weeks til snow is gone(Daytona has occupied garage to wifes misery-: )  and i can remove gastank and replace fuelpump and pressure regulator. thanksso far, but remember there are other issues need help for with this car

[ImperialCrown]

I would diagnose this first, not just replace parts that you may not need to fix the car. You want to replace only what has definitely failed.

[digitalrailroader]

ImperialCrown, on February 2, 2012 at 12:17 pm, said:

I would diagnose this first, not just replace parts that you may not need to fix the car. You want to replace only what has definitely failed.

I agree, Throwing Parts at a car is EXPENSIVE.

[torgtoe]

I agree too- however it depends on economy-

If i buy a fuel-pump from Us to Norway, i would pay about 30-50% of what i would have to pay here.
Lets say i spend one day doing the job installing pump -  total cost will be 350 dollars includes pay for my own work.
Thats about the prise i would have to pay just for letting a shop do a check. Car shops are horrible expensive. i got a estimated prise on timing-belt job on my Neon. They wanted 3000 dollars. I got another shop that charged med for 500 when i held parts. But first offer is the normal prise here. Thats what people pay.

But sure - i can and will do a simple diagnoses. But if i remove tank and pump-sure a new one will go in.
You see- we have very high costs an expences and very high income, that means import of parts is good business we even import milk here- That does not include import of cars(cause of taxes)

Edited by torgtoe, February 2, 2012 at 06:09 pm.