I had this EXACT same issue on my 95 Cirrus, same specs. Transmission cooler and all. When I bought it, it did this the day after the dealer. I would be driving along and it would jump right into limp mode. It would start out as this in cold, but if you restarted the car after it had warmed up, it would take a while before it went into limp mode. And sometimes it wouldn't even do it, but it had to be warmed up. Which is why I never noticed it on the test drive. Do you know the reasons for why the transmission needed rebuilt in the first place? I hope it wasn't to try and cure a limp mode... sometimes $50 diagnosis at the dealer is worth it. They kept my car for two weeks trying to figure out what exactly caused the problem. Code 41, and DRB-III said the transmission was 'stuck' in second gear. Turns out, the TCM had failed internally. And my car hasn't entered limp mode since, that was a year and a half ago.
The mid to late 90's Chryslers could put out codes using the 'key dance' method. Switch the key from off to on three times within five seconds without putting the key in the start position, leaving it in the on position the third time. To the blinking code, there will be a two second pause between each digit, and a four second pause between each code. Code 55 is end of readout. Example: Code 12 always sets when there is a trouble code. It will blink once, wait two seconds, blink twice. Then if there are no more codes, four second wait, blink five times, two second wait, five times again for code. Then it won't blink anymore unless you do the key dance again. You can usually get basic transmission codes out this way, such as code 41. Some of the later 90's would also display an OBD-II P0---- code on the odometer display. There is an amazing code chart that the amazing people here on allpar put together for us that you can refer your codes to. Access it by using the search bar up top. Depending on your code, you need to see a dealer. They will reset the code and set the TCM for re-learn once the problem is relieved. If you perform the repair yourself, ALWAYS use OEM parts for sensors and electrical items, aftermarket parts are too cheaply made and are often not in spec and can cause issues like this. Good luck!
Edited by 95chryslercirrus, November 4, 2013 at 02:41 pm.