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2000 Stratus "0" odometer


11 replies to this topic

#1 stringpark

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Posted March 8, 2014 at 11:54 pm

Hello,

 

I'm hoping someone may be able to advise concerning a problem I'm having with a 2000 Dodge Stratus. Here is the story...A while back, I pulled up to our local Family Dollar and was in the store no more than five minutes. When I came out, the engine wouldn't even turn over. There were no problems with the car before this. I brought down a battery charger, but it still wouldn't turn over even in "boost" mode. So, I towed it home, where it has sat in the back yard for about two years (growing mold in some spots of the interior, so it must have gotten damp inside). A few days ago, I finally got around to replacing the battery and it started right up, but the odometer now reads "0" and the tach, speedometer, temp, etc. do not work or light up. The windshield wipers and electric locks also do not work. Here is what does work, the oil light still turns on when I first turn the key before starting the engine, the turn signals (including instrument panel indicators) work, headlights, brake lights, reverse lights, all work. The washer fluid pump also works. Although I haven't driven it far, it also seems to run just fine.

 

Here is some additional info, every once in a while "no bus" will display when first starting the engine. When it does this, it only displays for a second, then goes back to "0".  Also, when I started it up this morning to pull it around to the other side of the house for a wash job, the odometer actually came up normal and all of the gauges seemed to be working fine. However, after that one instance, it is now back to the same problem. I have reseated all of the fuses and relays, both in the engine compartment and in the dash (although I didn't really look for blown fuses since it did start up normal this morning). I've also tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Can anyone provide some insight on this problem?

 

Thanks, Dave   



#2 ImperialCrown

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Posted March 9, 2014 at 04:20 am

 Welcome to Allpar. Look for poor or corroded connections at the BCM (body control module). The BCM stores the odometer reading, controls the power locks and the wiper park/intermittent/delay functions. The cluster odometer only displays what it is told. The intermittent 'no bu5' message would confirm that the communication between modules is failing.

 The BCM is part of the dash fuse/relay box (called the Junction Block). Make sure that all connectors and fuses are seated tightly. Sometimes removing and re-installing a fuse or connector will 'scratch' a better contact into the terminal blades. Contact cleaners and dielectric grease may help to restore and protect a good connection.

 2010-02-20_152819_stratus.gif

 The moldy interior would suggest a water leak into the car (is the carpet wet?). High humidity will cause electrical terminal corrosion. The interior needs to be dry to prevent electrical corrosion. Wet carpets will also stink in warmer weather.


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#3 stringpark

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Posted March 9, 2014 at 08:12 am

Thanks for the advice ImperialCrown! I had reseated all of the fuses/relays in the Junction Block, but I'll try it again and focus my attention on the BCM. This makes sense to me too, since the interior was moldy (no wet pet BTW, but I've heard that cars that sit for a long time outside can get damp/moldy regardless). So does the instrument panel connect into the BCM or Junction Block? Is the BCM and Junction Block the same thing?

 

Thanks!



#4 ImperialCrown

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Posted March 9, 2014 at 09:22 am

 The BCM is part of the JB assembly, but can be serviced separately.



#5 Bob Lincoln

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Posted March 9, 2014 at 09:36 am

After you wet-vac or clean as best you can, try drying out the interior by placing a couple of open ziploc bags of rice in the interior (only if you are sure no rodents have or can get in), with the windows all closed.  Rice is a great dessicant and will pull moisture out of the air.  I agree, bad connections at the BCM are to blame.



#6 stringpark

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Posted March 9, 2014 at 12:49 pm

Awesome, thanks guys! Will post an update when I get a chance to tear into the BCM.



#7 stringpark

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Posted March 11, 2014 at 09:28 pm

Well, I dug into this some more tonight. I reseated all of the connectors going into the JB (as well as a few others close to the JB). When that didn't work, I removed the JB/BCM and separated the two. Having a close look at the BCM, the PCB looked really clean, no burnt components or anything. Put it all back, but still no dice.  Not sure which direction to go from this point. Are there certain connectors/pins where I should look for voltage to help narrow down the problem?

 

Thanks!  



#8 stringpark

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Posted March 18, 2014 at 08:29 pm

Just one more quick question for you guys. I found a wiring diagram online and used it to verify power to all circuits that power the BCM (fuses 5, 8, 9 and 11). When I first started it up this evening, everything worked, then later it wasn't working, then even later it started working again. What I've noticed is that everything stops and starts working together (instrument cluster, wipers and power locks). I have power at all four fuses regardless of whether it's working at the time or not. All this leads me to think that it is the BCM module that has gone bad. So anyway, all that to ask this.... Can I simply replace the BCM with a used one from eBay, or do these have to be programed to work with the other computers in the vehicle?

 ..



#9 ImperialCrown

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Posted March 19, 2014 at 03:14 am

 It could very well be the BCM that is failing, but all external causes must be ruled out first. That is the path of diagnosis. BCM failure isn't that common, but it can and does happen. The BCM can store fault codes, but an advanced scan tool is needed to read the codes. Fault codes may be useful in diagnosis. There appears to be intermittent 'loss of bus communication'.

The 'no bu5' message is the loss of communication between modules and your symptoms are all 'BCM related'. It controls these things. The intermittent nature of your symptoms are common to poor connections, etc. but could also be internal to the BCM. 

 The BCM does store the vehicle VIN and odometer mileage. It is configurable to the vehicle that is is applied to (also done with an advanced scan tool). 

 If your vehicle does not have the factory VTSS (security) system, you want to make sure that you replace the BCM with non-VTSS BCM also. A BCM with the embedded security feature will tell the PCM that it also has the feature, when in fact it does not. This will lead to having to replace both modules as once the feature is learned, it cannot be unlearned and you will have 'no start' issues.

 



#10 Bob Lincoln

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Posted March 19, 2014 at 09:09 am

I would rule out a grounding issue first.  The BCM has a body ground, usually near the inside right fender.  Often it can get corroded from water leaking in, or body rot allowing road splash in.



#11 stringpark

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Posted March 19, 2014 at 09:04 pm

Thanks for the help guys! Great suggestion on the grounds! That's sounds really promising, so I'll check that out next and let you guys know.

 

ImperialCrown, Thanks so much for the details on the BCM! Can I get clarification on just a couple things though? 1.) When you say that the BCM is configurable to the vehicle with the advanced scan tool, is that a requirement for it to work, or will it still work plug and play style, but just have the wrong internal VIN and odometer mileage?  2.) Also, when you say that VTSS cannot be unlearned, are you talking about the PCM or BCM? In other words, if I was to replace the BCM with one that has VTSS (without my knowledge of course), are you saying that the PCM would pick up on that and permanently "learn" that feature, in essence corrupting the PCM to where the car wouldn't start even if put the old BCM back in?

 

Thanks again for your time guys!  Can't even tell you how helpful this has been!



#12 ImperialCrown

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Posted March 20, 2014 at 03:06 am

 The BCM should work (if that's the problem), there are just features that can be toggled on or off under 'Customer Preferences' for power lock/unlock, headlights/DRL/on with wipers-type stuff that you may think is missing with a BCM swap.

 The VTSS-enable is transferred from either a PCM or BCM swap with a module that has the option. Either one can transfer the 'virus' to the other over the bus. Once transferred, the feature is now 'learned'. Both modules would have to be replaced with non-VTSS modules if this were to happen in a non-VTSS vehicle. This is why Chrysler discourages swapping modules between vehicles, even for test purposes. 

 




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