1997 Chrysler Town & Country LXi, 67,000 miles.
The van is equipped with power locks, remote keyless entry, and the factory alarm system.
When locking and unlocking the van using the key in the driver's door lock cylinder, all the doors of the van will repeatedly lock and unlock very rapidly. The doors lock and unlock so rapidly that they cannot be opened and continue to cycle lock and unlock as long as the key is turned. Occasionally the doors will start to unlock and lock as soon as the key is inserted (but not turned) in the cylinder. Sometimes the locking and unlocking will stop briefly enough that the door can be opened, but this usually tricks the alarm into thinking that the vehicle is locked and the alarm will arm and sound. This problem started a couple years ago and has been getting worse. All the doors unlock normally using the key in the passenger side and tailgate locks, from the interior lock buttons, and when using the remote keyless entry. The problem occurs no matter which of our several keys are used.
Is this a problem with the door lock cylinder itself, or an electrical or linkage problem? Thanks for any suggestions. I'd like to fix it myself if possible.
Andrew
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Guest Message by DevFuse
97 Town & Country Power Lock And Alarm Problems
Started by
ats001 (converted)
, Apr 13 2004 at 10:10 pm
11 replies to this topic
#2
usa2sea
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Posted April 14, 2004 at 07:16 am
I don't know the answer, but I have the exact same problem on my 96. My wife always uses the remote, so she doesn't know it's broke, and I haven't had to fix it. The way I get in is to pull the door handle when the lock is temporarily in the unlock position. It continues to cycle, but I get in and on mine the alarm doesn't go off. I hope someone has the real answer, it is annoying!
#3
A. Murphy
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Posted April 14, 2004 at 12:36 pm
I'd be inclined to think you have a faulty switch contacts in the drivers door switch
Also check the wires between the door and the frame for corroded contacts and cracks due to flexing of the wires in the bundle.
What about the control switches ont eh arm rest, anything funky with them?.
or any strange/alternate behaviour if the door is open vs closed.
Also check the wires between the door and the frame for corroded contacts and cracks due to flexing of the wires in the bundle.
What about the control switches ont eh arm rest, anything funky with them?.
or any strange/alternate behaviour if the door is open vs closed.
#4
ats001 (converted)
ats001 (converted)
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Posted April 14, 2004 at 01:41 pm
The interior switches at the armrest work fine. The only problem is when the key is used, and it's only in that one lock. It happens regardless of whether the door is open or closed.
I have not taken off the door panel in this van, but working on other cars with electric locks, there is usually a metal linkage rod that goes from the key cylinder to the door lock actuator which what electrically operates the locks. I'm wondering if this may need to be adjusted somehow. My other theory is that the actuator is bad. I don't think it's a wiring problem between the door and the car since the locks work fine using every other control.
Since we have several drivers in the family who use the van, not everyone has remotes (or remembers to carry them along), and it is annoying to have to use the passenger or tailgate lock to unlock the car. The alarm going off gets annoying as well, so I'd really like to fix it.
Anyone have good instructions on how to take the door panel off? They can be tricky.
Andrew
I have not taken off the door panel in this van, but working on other cars with electric locks, there is usually a metal linkage rod that goes from the key cylinder to the door lock actuator which what electrically operates the locks. I'm wondering if this may need to be adjusted somehow. My other theory is that the actuator is bad. I don't think it's a wiring problem between the door and the car since the locks work fine using every other control.
Since we have several drivers in the family who use the van, not everyone has remotes (or remembers to carry them along), and it is annoying to have to use the passenger or tailgate lock to unlock the car. The alarm going off gets annoying as well, so I'd really like to fix it.
Anyone have good instructions on how to take the door panel off? They can be tricky.
Andrew
#5
mpearis
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Posted April 14, 2004 at 03:57 pm
If you find out let us know. Both my '96 Caravan Sport and my new to me '97 T&C do the exact same thing. Both have power locks, keyless entry and alarm. Thanks!!
#6
A. Murphy
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Posted April 14, 2004 at 04:53 pm
Sound more like it is limited to the lock contact mechanism, or at least that's where I would start based on the details.
getting off the panel,
Remove anything that looks like a pushed on button as there is probably a screw to be removed behind it.
then with a $5 tool you got at your local Napa, etc, lift out each pop in plastic retainer.
probably a sheet of plastic behind that to remove or cut through, remember to remove it carefully or replace it, if you want the rain to stay on the outside.
manuals are available from www.Techauthority.com
Programmable remotes should be available from the dealer for about $40-50. or on E-bay.
getting off the panel,
Remove anything that looks like a pushed on button as there is probably a screw to be removed behind it.
then with a $5 tool you got at your local Napa, etc, lift out each pop in plastic retainer.
probably a sheet of plastic behind that to remove or cut through, remember to remove it carefully or replace it, if you want the rain to stay on the outside.
manuals are available from www.Techauthority.com
Programmable remotes should be available from the dealer for about $40-50. or on E-bay.
#7
int_53185
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Posted April 15, 2004 at 12:37 pm
Theres a switch on the lock cylinder[inside the door near the outside door panel] these switches are very flimsy and break easily...id say if your remote is working and the inside lock switch works...this switch must be bad...ive broken a few of these at work....i believe theyre $6..order from the dealer...either that or simply unplug it and live without it...
#8
ats001 (converted)
ats001 (converted)
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- Guests
Posted April 20, 2004 at 04:03 pm
Thanks for the information. I still haven't had a chance to open up the door to see if that switch is indeed causing the problem. Do you happen to know the part number or name for that switch?
Thanks,
Andrew
Thanks,
Andrew
#9
Rube (converted)
Rube (converted)
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- Guests
Posted May 15, 2004 at 04:16 pm
I could have written that complaint - and was going to do just that but I saw this post first!
I'll be tearing into my '96 soon and will report findings. This problem started with my driver's door and now I see it on the passenger door. I don't use the RKE so I get the alarm often (grrrr...)
Rube
I'll be tearing into my '96 soon and will report findings. This problem started with my driver's door and now I see it on the passenger door. I don't use the RKE so I get the alarm often (grrrr...)
Rube
#10
WEB
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Posted September 1, 2004 at 07:19 pm
Did anyone figure out the repair for this (no posts since May)? My '98 T&C also does something like this - driver's door relocks before you can open it.
#11
fastblack
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Posted September 2, 2004 at 09:27 am
Has anyone tried a new BCM? Or a swap with somebody else's whose locks work fine?
#12
Werner
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Posted September 2, 2004 at 10:09 am
I personally suspect the door lock switch, had the same problem, changed the switch and installed a RKE since than no more problems.
The switch has actually 2 smd resistors to tell the BCM to open or close as this is done with a multiplexed signal (fewer wires).
Hope this helps
Werner
The switch has actually 2 smd resistors to tell the BCM to open or close as this is done with a multiplexed signal (fewer wires).
Hope this helps
Werner
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