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95 Chrysler Cirrus No Spark


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8 replies to this topic

#1 tobkat

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Posted May 9, 2004 at 07:26 pm

I have a 95 Cirrus. It ran fine on the way home one day, the next day it would not start. It turns over but no spark. Engine is getting fuel. I pulled a spark plug, turned the engine--no spark. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor--nothing. I checked the supply and signal voltage on the camshaft and crankshaft voltage, voltage checked out according to specifications. I cannot figure this one out. I have troubleshot what seems to be everything in the ignition system...

Any Ideas or suggestions would be great.

Thanks

#2 tobkat

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Posted May 14, 2004 at 08:33 am

I have since replace the crankshaft sensor to no avail....I also tested the voltage on the ASD relay. Socket for Pin 30 has continuous power, socket for pin 86 also has continuous-(no key in ignition). What could cause this? Is it the PCM, the ignition switch, what.... I have absolutely no spark to the spark plugs, but everything has voltage where/when it is suppose to except for this pin 86. HELP!!!

Edited by tobkat, May 14, 2004 at 08:33 am.


#3 Bob Hohn

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Posted May 14, 2004 at 10:22 am

Hopefully it is not the infamous fried distributor. I had to replace one on my sister's 95 Cirrus. Also, if you do have to replace it, makes sure you pay attention to the orientation of the shaft, as it is possible to put it in 180 off...don't ask how I know :angry: Expensive and was dealer only 3 years ago. Her's went with only 68,000 miles on it. List price was somewhere near $600 I believe.

#4 tobkat

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Posted May 14, 2004 at 05:23 pm

All the pins test within specs on the distributor...but for some reason I have voltage on pin 86 of the asd relay all the time....I'm still troubleshooting it, hopefully someone out there can lead me to the actual problem. Thanks for your input Bob.

#5 tobkat

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Posted June 21, 2004 at 11:17 am

Just so ya'll know....IT'S FIXED!!!!! Turns out it was the distributor. Pricey little bugger, but the car is firing up.....thanks for all the input.

#6 Bob Hohn

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Posted June 22, 2004 at 09:42 pm

Sorry to hear it was your distributor. Are they still like $500? I wouldn't have trusted one from a yard. Sometimes I wonder if Mitsubishi was/is out to get us....

#7 GI_Dubber (converted)

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Posted June 23, 2004 at 10:29 am

I have the same exact problem with my 1995 Dodge Stratus with the 2.5l V6. I drove for two hours back home on Friday, then Saturday morning, no start. She cranks over like a champ but no start. My plugs are dry and I am not getting any spark. I am getting voltage in pins #'s 30 & 86 constantly at the ASD relay. All other related sensors check out fine (crank, cam).

I am happy to hear that your car is running again, but what led you to replace the Distributor?

#8 Bob Hohn

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Posted June 23, 2004 at 11:17 am

I had only knew because I was friends with a tech at the local Dodge Dealer and he specifically pointed out before I did anything the distributor would be bad. I just couldn't get over something so expensive could fail at such a low mileage.

#9 macjoedaddy (converted)

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Posted July 3, 2004 at 10:24 pm

Same story here. Bad distributor- I think? I've been waiting to pull the trigger on the expensive purchase. Weirdly, the car suddenly started running very poorly but hung in for a couple of days before finally stalling. I thought it was fuel related....but alas, no spark. Someone told me that a failing timing belt would exhibit these symptoms because the crank and cam sensors would no longer play nicely...I checked the belt and it was good, but I replaced it anyway...ouch.

I also checked:
Plugs/wires/dist cap/rotor: All replaced
resistence across primay and secondaries coil: good
Cam sensor signal output: good
ASD Power to Coil: Good-this is key (gotta have juice)
Fused Ignition switch ouput to distributor: good
PCM output to ignition coil driver: Good-this is key (this is what tells the coil to fire)
All connector continuity to the PCM: Good

So, I'm resigned to thinking that if the distributor is getting juice, and it is getting its signal to fire, then it must be the distributor. I figure if it was the crank sensor (which I didn't check), the PCM would refuse to signal the coil driver to fire. The part that bugs me is that the resistence checked OK across both primary and seconday coils. Any other insights before I drop the big coin?


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