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Switch Replacement On A604 Transmission
Posted June 25, 2004 at 09:47 pm
My local Chrysler dealership thought the two could just be switched. But this guy wasn't 100% sure and no one else was around. He could not tell me how to do this. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove this switch. The base of it is round. I can't tell if it pulls straight up or has to be screwed out, or if it can even be removed. I am afraid to break it.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 12:55 am
chrysler 4 1te (a604) new transmission range sensor
change beginning at the start of production 1996, some models equipped with the 41te (a604`) transaxle repalced the PRNODL and Neutral Safety Switch with a transmission range sensor
REASON to provide a common Shift Lever Position Senor and Transmission Contol Module (TCM) logicv system with the used in the 42LE (A606) transaxle for duarbility and reliability.
Parts Affected 1. PRNODL switch the previously used has been eliminated and replaced with the new transmission range sensor
2. Neutral Switch the previously used transmission switch has been elimanatated and replaced with a Transmission Range Sensor
3. Transaxle Case the casting of the case change with the elimination of the two threaded holes for PRNODL holes and Nuetral Safety Switch an access hole has been added to accomidate the new TRS Sensor Connector as the switch which is mounted on the valve body
4. Valve Body the manual arm shaft and roostered comb assembly and the valve Body changed in design to accommedate the mounting of the new TRS sensor
5. TCM the logic system flash into the computer program changed to accept the open and closed state of the new Transmission Range Sensor with the PRNDOL and Neutral Safety Swtich having been inagrated into one Intergraged Change Sensor the new logic system now has to utilize the one sensor to determine start up functions, refersee lamp operation as well as foward drive range shift and converted clutch strategies
6. interchangablities NONE of the updated parts listed above will interchange with any of the first designed parts used in the previous model vehicles between 1989-1995 first designed parts must be used with first desinged models and second design parts must be used with second deign models 1996--and above
Edited by madhater, June 26, 2004 at 12:57 am.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 01:18 am
this switch is attached to the Valve Body.. . from the inside of the transmission, don;t quote me on this ...i am looking at a picture.
Edited by madhater, June 26, 2004 at 01:24 am.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 07:42 am
this switch is attached to the Valve Body.. . from the inside of the transmission, don;t quote me on this ...i am looking at a picture
Madhater, yes I'll quote U because you're 100% correct, the switch is part of the manual shifter assembly, which is bolted onto the valve body, it comes out from the inside, after disconnecting the linkage and dropping the valve body which comes after dropping the oil pan etc...( I went thru this when I took my 41te apart few months ago.) it's a comb switch and it's much too big for that hole, you're only looking at the connector.
There must be a reason why they made the 2 connectors different, I would not swap them, I have a 99 and my back up lights were intermittant, contact cleaner on both side of the connector, no trouble since then, I know that because I have one of those sonar type transponders.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 08:37 am
I have a complete drivetrain from a 98 to put into my 99. The transmission from 99 (the one being replaced) has never given me any problems. The 'new' transmission from the 98 is an unknown quantity. It came from a lease vehicle with 78,000 miles on it. I will assume that the fluids were never changed.
I also don't know if they used the correct fluid. When I drained the fluid on the 1998 it smelled burnt. Don't know how bad that really is, or if it indicates they put in dexron. Also the sheet metal on the 98 is severly rusted. The metal on the outboard side is bubbling with corrosion and I don't know if this part is easily replaceable or available. (the tranny did drive ok in its last vehicle, I drove it)
I am just trying to set myself up with the best option here. Any recommendations are appreciated it.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 09:02 am
there should be nothing to readjust as far as I know.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 09:09 am
If I remove the pan from the tranny will the switch be visible to be removed? or will I have to delve much deeper into the tranny.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 09:47 am
No the switch is attached to your manual shifter post, that's the one you connect the linkage to from the cable that comes from the lever on the steering column, you'll have to drop the oil pan then remove about 24 small bolts on the valve body( either philips or torx, can't remember...) then you pull down the the valve body with the shifter attached to it it, I took some pix, send your email and will send them to you. wait wait..just click on my name and you should see a pic there.
Posted June 26, 2004 at 11:05 am
Just don't want to get in over my head without having some knowledge of what is going on.
I was also considering just changing out the entire wiring harness between the two vans, complete with computers at all. Not sure if that is an easier/better idea , but with the whole drivetrain out it would not take very much. Any reasons not to do this that you can think of?
Posted June 26, 2004 at 03:52 pm
so you won't be going that far, once you remove all the proper bolts, you can just ease it down, remember to keep your mouth shut while under there, or you'll be sampling some atf+3, the switch assembly slides over the manual shifter post, and secured by one screw, but you have not said why you want to replace the switch?
When my tranny broke, back in January, having heard and read so much about the 604, I wanted to see one on the inside as the diagrams were not comprehensive enough if you never visited one before, but after tearing it apart, and confirmed my suspission of the problem I found few places that were glad to rebuild it for me, it is a lot easier, it took the guy 1 hour to do it,so you can think the same way, try it and if you're stuck, then seek the pro help, if you decide to do it and I'll post the procedure .
ps: the original pix is clearer than what showed on the website, send ur email if u want it.
added: take a peek again at the pix, I cropped it.
Edited by shak911, June 26, 2004 at 07:39 pm.
Posted July 5, 2004 at 12:44 pm
It is obvious the small spring goes inside one of the larger springs, but which one?? I need someone to verify my assumptions that one has the smaller spring in it and one does not (case one flew off and I didn't see it). I then need to know which one do I put the spring in? The holes are aligned lengthwise along the car, one behind the other.
Any help would be great. Thanks.
Posted July 5, 2004 at 12:55 pm
drop me a note with your email, I'll try (later) to scan some diagrams and email them, I was afraid this might happen,