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Power Steering Pump Replace On '99 Gd. Voyager 3.3


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13 replies to this topic

#1 teebee (converted)

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Posted August 17, 2004 at 10:22 pm

Found a hole rusted in the bottom of my power steering pump today (just in time for vacation). Does anyone know how to replace?

#2 Modman

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Posted August 18, 2004 at 09:24 pm

teebee,
on a cool engine 3.3 3.8L instructions.
remove as much fluid from the reservoir.
detach neg bat cable.
loosing the alternator so the belt is lose.
jack up van and place jack stands under front.
remove the accessory drive spalch shield
remove the accesory drive belts.
move the exhaust system as far to the rear and to the left side of the vechicle as possible. (maybe oprtional since this sounds like a lot of work)
detach the power steering supply hose, clamped on.
remove the pressure line. and any other lines connected to the pump.
remove the rear attaching nut to the front mounting bracket.
There are 3 bolts in front for the pump that is part of the bracket remove them. then seperate the pump from the bracket.
install new pump and reverse everything.
bleed system of air by slowly turning wheels back and forth.

I personally would take it into a shop, because as usual a lift will make this job 10 time easier. Good luck.

#3 gene - neonexpres

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Posted August 21, 2004 at 07:45 am

You might be able to remove it from the right wheel well.

Posted Image

Not sure which is more work (this way or through the exhuast), since you will have to remove the tensioner and aluminum support, a well as the pulley off the pump while still in the vehicle:

http://members.aol.c...8gc/pspump1.jpg

#4 Wizard

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Posted August 21, 2004 at 09:29 am

Whoa! Did that belt take out that steering pump pulley? I see cracked out
rim.

:o

Cheers,

Wizard

#5 Dan R.

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Posted August 21, 2004 at 12:38 pm

I've done this job several times. It isn't much fun. First of all, if your hole is in the reservoir (the back shell of the pump), you will have to buy the pump assembly from the dealer. When you buy a rebuild elsewhere, the pump does not come with the reservoir. You may be able to find it at a wrecking yard. When you reinstall the reservoir on a rebuilt pump, be sure there are washers underneath the nuts, or they will chew a hole in your reservoir and ruin it (been there, done that).

Another thing to carefully watch for are cracks in the non metalic pulley. Mine had several, and a friend's pulley flew apart because of cracks. Lose that pulley and that means you are shut down on the spot, since you have a serpentine belt. You WILL need the special tool to remove and reinstall the pulley, which is pressed onto the shaft. Hammer the pulley on and it's all over.

You will either have to remove your exhaust pipe from the manifold or pull out the passenger side drive axle (your choice) to make room to get the pump out.

Good luck.

#6 Dan R.

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Posted August 21, 2004 at 12:51 pm

Pardon the repeat, but this is a post I did on this procedure a few months ago, if you are interested.


This is my 4th pump replacement on this type of minivan ('96, 3.3 liter). I figure I'm getting pretty good at this difficult job and have some advice if anyone is interested.

The Chilton manual advises you to remove the exhaust pipe to make room to remove it, but for me, I found it easier to pull the passenger side drive axle out. If anyone has fought the exhaust manifold bolts, you know what a pain that can be. The pump can then be removed through a hole in the cradle plate near the area where the axle was.

Unless you buy a pump from your Chrysler dealer, the reman unit you get from the typical auto parts store comes without the rear shell (reservoir) on the pump. You will need to transfer the pulley and the shell from your old pump to the new one.

There are two bolts in addition to the high pressure outlet fitting which hold the back shell onto the pump body. There are no washers under these bolts (at least there were not any on my pump), and after I reinstalled the shell on my pump the second time, I noticed the shell was leaking around these bolts after I went to the trouble of putting the whole vehicle back together.

#1- Install flat washers under your bolts to keep them from chewing through the thin steel shell. This part is not available separately from Chrysler.

I have a friend with a Caravan who was recently stranded when his power steering pulley fractured. Having a serpentine belt means everything else is shut down when that happens. Thinking this was an isolated incident, I nevertheless took a good look at mine. It had several hairline cracks in it, and was ready to scatter!

#2- Take a good look at your pulley and replace it if in doubt.

A puller made for removing the pulley from the shaft (it's pressed on) is mandatory. It's well worth the small investment. If you try to hammer a pulley onto your pump shaft, you will ruin the pump.

#3- Take a good look at your hoses. They are close to the catalytic converter (who did that??). My return hose was in bad shape, and if it had sprung a leak, my new pump would have been ruined. Again.

Hope this helps anyone faced with this exquisitely pleasant job. Regards.

#7 gene - neonexpres

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Posted August 21, 2004 at 10:39 pm

Whoa!  Did that belt take out that steering pump pulley?  I see cracked out
rim.

:o

Cheers,

Wizard

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>



Nope. The tensioner broke, which took the chunk out of the pulley :(

I installed a tensioner[at]home in order to get it to my friend's shop, then put it on a lift to give me room to replace the pulley. (much easier to replace the tensioner from below than from up top :blink:

Posted Image

If you look at the photo in my previous post, you might be able to remove the pump after removing the pulley from it (I only changed the pulley) w/o removing the halfshaft. But, more room, the better.

But, if you look at the second linked photo, you will notice I went and removed the tensioner and aluminum bracket assembly to make room.

You can s I had the proper tool to change the pulley ;)

Edited by gene - neonexpres, August 21, 2004 at 10:40 pm.


#8 John Wood

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Posted August 22, 2004 at 08:01 am

Great info Dan and Gene! This will help a lot of folks. :)

#9 teebee (converted)

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Posted August 24, 2004 at 07:52 pm

Pardon the repeat, but this is a post I did on this procedure a few months ago, if you are interested.
This is my 4th pump replacement on this type of minivan ('96, 3.3 liter). I figure I'm getting pretty good at this difficult job and have some advice if anyone is interested.

The Chilton manual advises you to remove the exhaust pipe to make room to remove it, but for me, I found it easier to pull the passenger side drive axle out. If anyone has fought the exhaust manifold bolts, you know what a pain that can be. The pump can then be removed through a hole in the cradle plate near the area where the axle was.

Unless you buy a pump from your Chrysler dealer, the reman unit you get from the typical auto parts store comes without the rear shell (reservoir) on the pump. You will need to transfer the pulley and the shell from your old pump to the new one.

There are two bolts in addition to the high pressure outlet fitting which hold the back shell onto the pump body. There are no washers under these bolts (at least there were not any on my pump), and after I reinstalled the shell on my pump the second time, I noticed the shell was leaking around these bolts after I went to the trouble of putting the whole vehicle back together. 

#1- Install flat washers under your bolts to keep them from chewing through the thin steel shell. This part is not available separately from Chrysler.

I have a friend with a Caravan who was recently stranded when his power steering pulley fractured. Having a serpentine belt means everything else is shut down when that happens. Thinking this was an isolated incident, I nevertheless took a good look at mine. It had several hairline cracks in it, and was ready to scatter!

#2- Take a good look at your pulley and replace it if in doubt.

A puller made for removing the pulley from the shaft (it's pressed on) is mandatory. It's well worth the small investment. If you try to hammer a pulley onto your pump shaft, you will ruin the pump.

#3- Take a good look at your hoses. They are close to the catalytic converter (who did that??). My return hose was in bad shape, and if it had sprung a leak, my new pump would have been ruined. Again.

Hope this helps anyone faced with this exquisitely pleasant job.  Regards.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

B) B) B) B)

#10 teebee (converted)

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Posted August 24, 2004 at 08:02 pm

Dan, went with your suggestion to remove the p.s. pump via the passenger side drive axle area. I agree it was easier than #^%^%^& around with exhaust system. On the downside, when I tried to remove the pass. side rotor, I was picking up little silver BB's off the garage floor. Seems I pulled the right front wheel bearing apart! I guess with 107000 miles on my "99G. Voyager it won't hurt to replace. Thanks so much for the advice.

#11 Dan R.

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Posted August 24, 2004 at 08:34 pm

Wow! How did that happen? I guess it was about ready to die anyway. Or, if you moved your van with the axle removed or without any torque on the axle nut, that could ruin the bearing.

#12 A. Murphy

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Posted August 25, 2004 at 12:24 am

If u want to move or roll any FWD vehicle with the hafts removed. use a large Nut/bolt through the hub to keep the bearing halves together.

#13 teebee (converted)

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Posted August 26, 2004 at 10:55 pm

Wow!  How did that happen?  I guess it was about ready to die anyway.  Or, if you moved your van with the axle removed or without any torque on the axle nut, that could ruin the bearing.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>



#14 teebee (converted)

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Posted August 26, 2004 at 10:56 pm

Wow!  How did that happen?  I guess it was about ready to die anyway.  Or, if you moved your van with the axle removed or without any torque on the axle nut, that could ruin the bearing.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>




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