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What Oil Should We Use?


37 replies to this topic

#21 desktop

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Posted February 13, 2007 at 04:16 am

currently on penzoil 10w30 and will switch back to the 5w30 in the next 2500 miles.
got a few fram oil filters laying around for the next few oil changes very good filters in my opinon

#22 mopark

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Posted January 12, 2009 at 12:25 pm

for my K-cars i used motorcraft synthtic blend, since i only drive my K's on occasions i use this stuff, i noticed the oil comes out much cleaner than convctional crap. And its cheap only 2.97 per quart.

#23 blacksea7 (converted)

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Posted January 12, 2009 at 06:41 pm

Never seen so many Castrol fanatics anywhere before... wow.
As for Wix, yeah, they're good until you have applications there's an apparent difference... oil and air... in the diesel trucks, Fleet Guard produces a much higher quality air and oil filter....

#24 135SoHc

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Posted January 13, 2009 at 12:56 am

shadow gets:
10w40 castrol/valvoline from spring through early fall
10w30 castrol/valvoline late fall through winter

Everything else gets 10w30 year round


Whats wrong with Castrol ?

Edited by 135SoHc, January 13, 2009 at 12:57 am.


#25 Chriznat20@msn.com

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Posted January 15, 2009 at 09:22 am

I use Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 in all of my vehicles. I have experimented with Motorcrafts syn-blend, but a 4,000 mile OCI UOA reported a low TBN and some shearing.

Ive run the synthetic Valvoline out to 8,000 miles in my 2002 Envoy (7 quart sump), and the UOA reported a good amount of additives still available not to mention no shearing. Its usually on sale up at Murrays for $.99 after rebate or BOGO at Advance Auto.

#26 DYnastyMan08

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Posted February 6, 2009 at 09:02 am

Castrol GTX 5w30 High Mileage in The BloodClot, 10w30 in my truck. Last few oil changes Ive used Napa high mileage 10w30 in both which from what I understand is the same as Valveoline, could be wrong. Usually try to get a 5 quart bottle since thats abit cheaper at least IMHO, Fram Filters on both as well.

#27 Musikmann

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Posted November 29, 2009 at 04:26 pm

Pennzoil 10W30 regular and Mopar filters since the car was new, 167,000 miles now.

#28 bugmenots

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Posted October 21, 2010 at 06:23 pm

Since I'm the new owner of an 88 Dodge Aries 2.2L with ~30k (less than 30k when I got it) I've been experimenting.

First OCI I just went with the "tried and true" PYB (Pennzoil yellow bottle hehe) 5-30 and a pint (half quart) of Marvel Mystery Oil suggested by a local friend and backyard mechanic, since the vehicle has been sitting for so long, etc.... I do not have the original owner's manual for the vehicle.....but the Chilton and Hayne's manuals I've referenced note that 5-30 10-30 and even SAE30! will work no problems in the vehicle.

More astonishing, was the fact that Chilton's referenced a 12 month/9000 mile OCI for the "K Cars" (ya know how their manuals are, they're extremely general and broad/wide spread)..


I'd be interested to know if anyone had the original owner's manual for the 88 Dodge Aries....I've looked online and all I can find is the "sales brochures" for download, which market the seating demensions, wheel dimensions and other statistics...

After a couple runs of conventional motor oil, I intend to switch to a synthetic, most likely 5W-30 Royal Purple, since I got about 6 quarts of it in my garage.

#29 Musikmann

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Posted November 3, 2012 at 08:19 am

I realize this is an 2 year old post but I found some missing owner's manuals for a car on ebay.

#30 raymondo112

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Posted January 7, 2013 at 10:19 pm

I never really used name brand oil, the house brand is always made by somebody like pennzoil, valvoline etc, personally your car doesn't give a crap what you pour in the crankcase won't run any better or worse either, Synthetic oils have proven in all tests to be better than conventional all the way around, yes it is beneficial to use them for all reasons, they don't change viscosity in cold, they don't breakdown anywhere near as fast so you may not have to add oil in between changes, can be good for up to 10,000 miles have to change the filter every 5,000 though, conventional even generic conventional can still make it to 5,000 miles, 3,000 miles has been put in our heads by oil change giants like Jiffy lube etc...  They lie, not to say it's a bad thing to go every 3,000 but why if you don't have to, don't believe me, next time you change your oil take a sample as it's draining have it analyzed the testing will tell you how your oil held up and most of all will probably tell you it could have went for longer time.

 

Using a good filter is a great idea you are protecting your engine from dirt, metal particles from the moving parts that are naturally wearing inside of it, you don't want this stuff eating your crank and cam bearings period, I recomend wix if you can get it, fram is ok, but the casing is thin and well it's not what it used to be years and years ago put it to you that way, it probably wont hurt your engine, but there's much better quality than what they make out there for around the same price.  A good oil filter should also have a good antidrainback valve built in to keep your car from dry starts every morning, put it to you this way if you first start your car after it sat all night and you can hear a knocking noise until the oil pressure rises then its a piece of junk buy a different brand its no good that will take it's toll on your crank bearings over time. 

 

Lucas isn't really necessary but I have seen it raise oil pressure on cars with low oil pressure and I have seen it reduce oil burning on cars that burn it, my opinion is if you use conventional and you don't mind spending the extra money go for it, not needed with synthetic but who really keeps their car forever now a days most rust out after 15 years or more or full service, on top of that things just break and rust and break, unless its a classic gem or some sports car or rare vehicle probably not worth buying synthetic as no one will spend money to keep it in good shape for years to come, many will throw them away and buy another, so be wise with your decision.  I have had cars with almost 300,000 miles and ran generic conventional all the way, never had internal motor issues or sludging. 

 

The only thing you are doing by purchasing Castrol is putting more money in their pockets, I'd rather keep it in mine, people can think whatever they want, hey its up to you, I really think it is more of a matter of preference, some people believe that a name like Mobil or whatever has more on the line so they will try hard to keep the quality of the product consistent and free from impurities, but I can tell you that there isn't many other ways to make oil or refine it so what difference does it make what brand you pour down there, they have to meet or exceed industry standards and guidelines anyhow to be able to market and sell their product legitmately.  If you want to know a key secret its on the back of your oil bottle, read your owners manual for oil recomendation, it might say use 10w-30 meeting SLor SG standards, then go into your parts store pick up the bottle read the back it will tell you meets industry SG standard or whatever.  Follow this and you wont void your waranty as long as you follow the scheduled interval.



#31 ImperialStyle

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Posted January 9, 2013 at 03:37 pm

wow, interesting choices I must say friends but here's my 2 cents.

 

Never had a NA 2.2/2.5 but after many different trials and tests with my dad's TIII motor, Non-synthetic 15W40 Rotella is the choice for all our cars. After a week every other oil we tried would be broken down quickly or the spirit would be a few quarts low. The price is also right, 13 dollars a gallon and sometimes it's on sale. I'm sure Dello, Vavaline and other heavy duty diesel oils work just as well but no other oil we've tried last 5,000 miles and retains viscosity like Rotella.

 

I know 3.3/3.8's wern't mentioned but we use the same 15W40 with no penalty in mileage. All my 3.8's drink synthtic but are perfectly content with conventonal. I agree with the Wix filters and buy them by the dozen since all our cars use the same size.

 

During the dead of winter,(like right now) we use either Rotella 10W30 or 5W40 to prevent starting issues since I leave my house for work at 4:30 am. Otherwise you can use it 9-10 months a year.

 

As for additives I only agree in two kinds; Marvel's Mystery Oil and MotorKote. Marvel's has a long history of keeping big heavy duty engines in service, like the planes in WWII. twice a year I replace a quart in the 3.8's oil with it and I have one with over 250,000 because of it. Motorkote is one I recently discovered that can be added to oil,transmission,power steering and differentials to promote a longer service life. I also like using premium fuel every few months for the cleaning agents added by many refiners.

 

Beside the first gen 3.5( the cast iron one). I would never reccomend using such thick oil in any newer engine because they are much more precise(read:less beefy). I think that any V8 like the magnum motors or older big blocks would love such oil as well and gain a little more power from it.



#32 Dave

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Posted January 10, 2013 at 09:40 am

On my 2.2 and 2.5, I always used 5W30, year round, in New Jersey. The reason being that with 5W30 it's quiet on startup, with 10W30 it rasped a bit for around ten - twenty seconds, even in summer. I spoke once to someone at Chrysler and they said 5W30 was the ideal in most climates. As you move further South maybe 10W30 is good for summer. I had a '91 and a '93, 2.2 and 2.5 respectively, and later had a turbo that I used synthetic in. 

 

I believe the owner's manual says 5W30 is good for most temps but you really need to check it before choosing a weight.



#33 raymondo112

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Posted January 10, 2013 at 10:15 pm

I also like using premium fuel every few months for the cleaning agents added by many refiners.

 

In all actuallity it may appear as though it would be cleaner, but the factor is it is a waste of your money unless it is required that you use 89 or better octane for your engine, all fuels since sometime around the 90's use a concentration on alcohol(ethanol) already in them for a few reasons 1 is cleaning, 2 to keep it from freezing, 3 cleaner burning.

 

So in a nutshell this means that additives like gumout, heet, etc... will dillute your fuel down with even more alcohol since all octane levels have a 10% concentration of this already in them and 90% gasoline this means since alcohol is corrosive you are asking for more problems down the road with your fuel system, basically by using these so called cleaning additives like bottled injector cleaner and heet at your parts store you are increasing the amount of alcohol in your gas, even though alcohol is a good cleaning agent, it dissolves things like rubber, plastic, fiberglass and more, so what is my point, what are your o-rings on your injectors made from, what is your fuel line made from, what are the hoses going to your fuel tank made from, get my drift, the 90/10 mix at the pump is the safest level you can get period going more than this you are risking damage to your fuel system and it's parts over a period of time on top of that alcohol also corrodes things and eats things getting them stuck in your pump, filter and injectors.

 

Why do they sell it to you then you might ask because people will still buy additives like this, reason it seems to work because the higher concentration of alcohol might appear to unclog in their mind but is really deteriorating more things internally, so for the xtra clean feeling you think you get you are rewarded with more breakdown and deterioration and rot inside which will clog things again, since most systems also have a fuel return you are inviting this stuff to come back and float in your tank as well.

 

I say this also to mention 87 has the same alcohol as 89, 92 etc...  There is no additional cleaning agents, the cleaning agent they advertise is a gimmick  to get you to stick with BP, or Shell gasoline, the alcohol cleans but too much and it becomes bad for your fuel system components, even further can damage your engine possibly, point is unless it calls for you to use higher octane, don't bother, and most of all don't use fuel additives or cleaners.

 

If you suspect your fuel system is dirty, 1 change the filter, 2 have a shop professionally clean the injectors with their system.  If they offer seafoam or anything else don't bother. 


Edited by raymondo112, January 10, 2013 at 10:16 pm.


#34 Rickorino

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Posted January 11, 2013 at 05:28 am

Everyone has an opinion on this. I would read your manual, use the weight for your temperature encountered and use any name brand oil with the API rating SN. Do not waste your money on additives. Change your oil as recommended for your driving style. I have had my oil examined at a lab several times after running for 5000 miles, 6 months and was told I could go longer. Changing oil at 3k and 3 months I feel is a waste of money.


Edited by Rickorino, January 11, 2013 at 05:29 am.


#35 Kevin1990

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Posted February 23, 2013 at 05:19 pm

I´d be concerned about usind a 5W 30 oil...

 

I dont know how road / driving conditions are in the US, but we got some mountains around here, the oil temperature could easily climb up to 250° F. I wont go on a -W 30 oil there...

If i would use a thin oil on my 3.0, i´d go with a Mobil 5W 50.

 

I use some Shell Helix 10W 40 in my Saratoga and the famous Valvoline MaxLife 10W 40 in my Voyager.

 

BUT.....i always have some lifter noise in cold condition....would a 5W oil cure that? I can´t imagine....



#36 capev86

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Posted April 6, 2013 at 07:09 pm

you can buy synthetic oil (even Mobil ) at Walmart real cheap.  I use (walmart) Supertech Synthetic 5w-30 in my daily drivers and Mobil 1 10w-30 in my 72 Suburban with original 307.  I'd rather do the job myself and put the $$$ I save towards better oil.  I only use conventional dino juice in a vehicle that is one step away from the grave or the engine is burning oil like crazy.  i don't bother with that Lucas oil, but i recommend a bottle of ZDDP additive in older engines running a slider cam (that includes all 2.2/2.5's before 1988) because modern oils don't have the quantity of zinc they once did since roller cams have so much less friction.  a good idea long term would be to upgrade your camshaft.


Edited by capev86, April 6, 2013 at 07:18 pm.


#37 Kevin1990

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Posted April 12, 2013 at 05:12 pm

I also have to say....my engine has never been put apart.

 

I´ll overhaul it this summer, including all gaskets and maybe the hydros.

If i use a 5W 30 now, it uses about 2 quarts every 1000 KM.

 

After the overhaul, i´ll use some 5W 40 or 5W 50, the oil get´s a manly temperature if you travel across the mountains, i´m not sure about a *30 oil in this case...



#38 John Wood

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Posted April 24, 2013 at 09:45 am

you can buy synthetic oil (even Mobil ) at Walmart real cheap.  I use (walmart) Supertech Synthetic 5w-30 in my daily drivers and Mobil 1 10w-30 in my 72 Suburban with original 307.  I'd rather do the job myself and put the $$$ I save towards better oil.  I only use conventional dino juice in a vehicle that is one step away from the grave or the engine is burning oil like crazy.  i don't bother with that Lucas oil, but i recommend a bottle of ZDDP additive in older engines running a slider cam (that includes all 2.2/2.5's before 1988) because modern oils don't have the quantity of zinc they once did since roller cams have so much less friction.  a good idea long term would be to upgrade your camshaft.

 

NAPA autoparts stores is running a special on their brand of synthetic oil until the end of April 2013.  You get 5 quarts of syntheic oil (you name the weight) plus an oil filter for $19.99 + tax.  It is a pretty good deal.  I had them order some 0W-20 for my RAV4 (factory spec) and some 10W-30 for the 96 mini, 3.0 with 218,000 on it.


Edited by John Wood, April 24, 2013 at 09:46 am.



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