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Timing Belt For Cirrus 2.5 V6

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12 replies to this topic

#1 AllanC

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Posted June 30, 2006 at 11:23 pm

I have offered to help a relative replace a timing belt on a 1999 Cirrus with 2.5 L V6 engine. I have never worked on this engine but I am thinking that timing belt replacement should be similar to the timing belt on the 3.0 L V6 engine. Is there a consensus about the best belt to buy? Autozone has Dayco-Duralast for $45.99 and Gatorback for $28.99. Who is the manufacturer of Gatorback? O'Reilly auto has a Gates belt for $45.99. Will I encounter any surprises when replacing the timing belt on this 2.5 V6? All ideas appreciated.

#2 RHancheck

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Posted July 1, 2006 at 12:14 am

gatorback is a goodyear brand, I havent done a 2.5 myself yet,, but have one looming on the horizon

#3 radiate

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Posted July 1, 2006 at 01:11 am

The 2.5 v6 is an interference engine so getting the timing right is more important. The tensioner is not as simple as the 3.0. You may need a special Mitsubishi tool to set the tensioner by the book. Room is in short supply under the hood in the Cirrus. Mark the old belt at the timing marks with the timing marks all lined up correctly. Transfer these markings to the new belt before installing. Check out that funky cam sprocket holder.
Check these Chilton instruction on Dodge timing belts.

Edited by radiate, July 1, 2006 at 01:13 am.

#4 timcasbolt

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Posted July 1, 2006 at 06:56 am

I only buy Gates belts.

#5 hamer

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Posted July 1, 2006 at 03:29 pm

I did my daughter's last fall, before I took of the old belt I marked the belt on each pully and counted the teeth on the belt between pulleys so I knew it was dead on. The new belt should have the exact same number of teeth as the old belt. I'd replace the tensioner as well.

If you're keeping the car, change the water pump and the crossover tube as well.

#6 AllanC

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Posted July 1, 2006 at 05:56 pm

The tensioner is not as simple as the 3.0. You may need a special Mitsubishi tool to set the tensioner by the book.

Thanks all for the responses. I looked at the Autozone diagram and that tensioner is different from the 3.0L V6. Is it a spring tensioner or is hydraulic and uses engine oil pressure to keep tension on the belt? I am not too worried about needing the proper belt tensioning tool. In the past I have always set the tension such that I am just barely able to twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest travel between sprockets. That has always worked for me.

#7 radiate

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Posted July 2, 2006 at 05:12 pm

It is hydraulic. Here is some info on recommended tools for setting the tensioner

From Autozone instructions:

Reinstall the tensioner to the block, but do not tighten.
Using special tool No. MD998767 and a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley, apply 39 inch lbs. (4.4 Nm) of torque to the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner bracket and tighten the fasteners to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.

Here is a link to a substitute tool for MD998767. The pics will give you an idea how this tool is used. You still need and inch pound torque wrench to use with this 1/4 inch drive tool. http://www.3sxperfor...e.com/tools.asp

Here is a link to a TB change on a Dohc Mitsubishi V6. Similar procedure but not identical. It does describe use of MD998767 and a torque wrench. http://www.team3s.com/60k.htm

Here is Mitsubishi document describing how to set the tensioner on a 4 cylinder engine using MD998767 or MD998752. The principles are the same as on the Chrysler 2.5. See step 29. http://www.dsm.org/t...tbelt/tbelt.htm

You might be able to judge when the tensioner plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily and skip the special tools.

#8 bill4253

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Posted July 3, 2006 at 10:32 am

You don't need the special tools to set the tensioner pin. Remove the tensioner and put it in a bench vise. VERY SLOOOOWLY squeeze the rod back into the cylinder until you can insert a pin (you can use a drill bit if you like). If you squeeze the rod back too quickly, then you'll see oil leak out. This means you get to spend $100+ at the dealer for a new tensioner. Should you have oil leak out and then reinstall the tensioner, you will eventually end up disassembling the belt to change the tensioner. A friend of mine changed his belt and didn't retract the tensioner correctly. The car sounded like it had a playing card rubbing against the belt. The loss of oil from the tensioner caused the tensioner to occasionally vibrate back and forth against the belt. This job is NOT FUN, so do it right and do it once.

You may want to change the water pump while you're in there.

#9 dno36

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Posted July 5, 2006 at 09:54 am

Lost of good posts here.
If your litlte 6 is the same one as in our Sebring the belt change is no fun.
The pin advise and your ideas are all good ones.
Yes, definately change the water pump while you are in there.
Mark all the bolt for replacement there are different lengths to deal with.
Make sure you get a chance to diagram your entire job and let us know how you do.
Good Luck,

#10 AllanC

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Posted July 8, 2006 at 07:54 pm

Started the tear down to replace the timing belt. Boy, I have met my match on this engine. I can't figure out how to get the engine mount bracket at crankshaft pulley end to separate from engine. I have supported the engine underneath the oil pan with a jack. Three bolts that hold body mount to bracket removed and body mount removed. Three bolts that attach bracket to engine removed. But the bracket will wiggle slightly but will not move horizontally. I have removed upper cam timing belt covers. Are there other bolts holding bracket to engine? Any ideas appreciated.

#11 moose_aa

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Posted August 31, 2006 at 08:18 pm

I too am fighting with a 2.5 timing belt, but I managed to get the belt on and set, it just runs like it is out of time. I backburnered my job to take care of a few others first, but I'll have a look at it tomorrow to see if I can help with the mount. I also saw someone say the 2.5 is an interference motor. Is that true? I've not found any note of it in the manuals, but it would save me from tearing this down to find out for sure!

#12 AllanC

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Posted August 31, 2006 at 10:14 pm

Yes, the 2.5 V6 is an interference engine. This link to a timing belt for this engine indicates it.

http://www.partsamer.....r=Timing Belt

#13 Gerry G

Gerry G
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Posted September 1, 2006 at 10:54 am

Yes, I can vouch for the fact the 2.5l is an interference motor. My daughters a/c compressor locked up and
shredded the serpentine belt. The serpentine belt got under the timing belt cover and wrapped itself around
timing belt crankshaft pulley causing it to slip a number of teeth (it was 5 off when pulled). The timing belt
was intact but all 12 exhaust valves and 2 intake valves were trashed. Fortunately there was no damage to the
pistons but one of the valve guides had to be repaired.


Gerry G.

Edited by Gerry G, September 1, 2006 at 10:56 am.


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