.
cars

Jump to content


Hello, Allpar Forums member or visitor! If you were an active member (more than two posts) or subscriber, you would not see this ad!

Register for a free account or Sign in (see top right of page for Facebook/Open ID login icons).


Photo
- - - - -

P0403 Error Code, EGR circuit malfunction


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
9 replies to this topic

#1 kraigb

kraigb
  • Active Member
  • 12 posts

Posted December 5, 2007 at 05:12 pm

My 2000 Town & Country turned up a P0403 code, "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction," when I took it in today for emissions testing in Oregon. Curiously, my code scanner turns up nothing, and the on-board code readout (from turning the key with trip and reset buttons pushed in) only gives the infamous "23" error code.

Anyway, I'd like some suggestions on where to start correcting this.

The DEQ report says that the catalyst, O2 sensor, and EGR are "unready" meaning, I believe, that no data has been coming from those components into the data collector.

Thanks

#2 Doug D

Doug D

    Virginia Gentleman

  • Active Member
  • 9,055 posts

Posted December 5, 2007 at 08:21 pm

My 2000 Town & Country turned up a P0403 code, "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction," when I took it in today for emissions testing in Oregon. Curiously, my code scanner turns up nothing, and the on-board code readout (from turning the key with trip and reset buttons pushed in) only gives the infamous "23" error code.

Anyway, I'd like some suggestions on where to start correcting this.

The DEQ report says that the catalyst, O2 sensor, and EGR are "unready" meaning, I believe, that no data has been coming from those components into the data collector.

Thanks


P0403 - An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.

I'm guessing the EGR will need to be replaced. Interesting that the CEL did not come on. My CEL came on when I got a P0404 code (Insufficient flow). Ended up having to replace the EGR when I had a major tune up done (overdue).

#3 AllanC

AllanC
  • Active Member
  • 2,303 posts

Posted December 5, 2007 at 08:41 pm

P0403 -- EGR solenoid circuit is not in the expected state when operated by the PCM (powertrain control module).

Possible causes: EGR solenoid defective, fused ignition switch output circuit open, EGR solenoid circuit wiring harness defective, EGR solenoid control circuit open, EGR solenoid control circuit shorted to ground.

Check the wiring to the EGR solenoid. Remove the connector and make sure pins and receptacles are clean and dry. Check the wiring from the EGR solenoid to the PCM.

This diagnostic code isolates the EGR solenoid as the culprit. The EGR solenoid controls vacuum to the EGR valve. It would be separate from the EGR valve. The EGR valve very well might be in satisfactory condition.

#4 Beans

Beans
  • Active Member
  • 1,064 posts

Posted December 6, 2007 at 09:16 am

P0403 -- EGR solenoid circuit is not in the expected state when operated by the PCM (powertrain control module).

Possible causes: EGR solenoid defective, fused ignition switch output circuit open, EGR solenoid circuit wiring harness defective, EGR solenoid control circuit open, EGR solenoid control circuit shorted to ground.

Check the wiring to the EGR solenoid. Remove the connector and make sure pins and receptacles are clean and dry. Check the wiring from the EGR solenoid to the PCM.

This diagnostic code isolates the EGR solenoid as the culprit. The EGR solenoid controls vacuum to the EGR valve. It would be separate from the EGR valve. The EGR valve very well might be in satisfactory condition.


Having spent some time recently with an EGR problem, I fully concur with AllenC's treatment plan.
—beans

#5 Rick Anderson

Rick Anderson
  • Active Member
  • 1,299 posts

Posted December 6, 2007 at 12:58 pm

The problem is, can you purchase just the solenoid? I had a bad valve on my Neon, so I purchased a new EGR that came with a new solenoid. I didn't look for just the solenoid, but I don't remember seeing a part number for just the solenoid.

Don't rule out a shorted wire either. I almost replaced a fuel pump once, but a little extra trouble shooting revealed it was just a shorted wire to one of the fuel injectors. It just costs the solder, shrink wrap and electric tape to fix it.

#6 John Wood

John Wood
  • Active Member
  • 10,650 posts

Posted December 6, 2007 at 01:49 pm

The problem is, can you purchase just the solenoid? I had a bad valve on my Neon, so I purchased a new EGR that came with a new solenoid. I didn't look for just the solenoid, but I don't remember seeing a part number for just the solenoid.

Don't rule out a shorted wire either. I almost replaced a fuel pump once, but a little extra trouble shooting revealed it was just a shorted wire to one of the fuel injectors. It just costs the solder, shrink wrap and electric tape to fix it.


In the event that all testing shows it is the solenoid, visit your local self-serve bone yard (if you have one). This is a perfect opportunity to take advantage of such an establishment. Most are loaded with these mini-vans and the part is very easy to retrieve if you find one. It will probably cost less than $12. A new EGR with solenoid will likely be more than $60.

#7 Doug D

Doug D

    Virginia Gentleman

  • Active Member
  • 9,055 posts

Posted December 6, 2007 at 03:30 pm

The problem is, can you purchase just the solenoid? I had a bad valve on my Neon, so I purchased a new EGR that came with a new solenoid. I didn't look for just the solenoid, but I don't remember seeing a part number for just the solenoid.

Don't rule out a shorted wire either. I almost replaced a fuel pump once, but a little extra trouble shooting revealed it was just a shorted wire to one of the fuel injectors. It just costs the solder, shrink wrap and electric tape to fix it.


Checking with Advance Auto Parts Online and others, the EGR Solenoid comes as part of the EGR so, NO, you cannot get the solenoid seperately (which is why I suggested just getting a new EGR) unless you happen to have a boneyard nearby as John Wood suggests.

And yeah, it could be a bad connection, shorted wire as well. If no short or bad wire is found, I'd recommend R&R the EGR valve unit (with solenoid). At Advance Auto the EGR ranges from ~$59 to ~$77 in price.

#8 Beans

Beans
  • Active Member
  • 1,064 posts

Posted December 6, 2007 at 07:55 pm

Checking with Advance Auto Parts Online and others, the EGR Solenoid comes as part of the EGR so, NO, you cannot get the solenoid seperately (which is why I suggested just getting a new EGR) unless you happen to have a boneyard nearby as John Wood suggests.

And yeah, it could be a bad connection, shorted wire as well. If no short or bad wire is found, I'd recommend R&R the EGR valve unit (with solenoid). At Advance Auto the EGR ranges from ~$59 to ~$77 in price.


It all comes as one assembly
IF you do buy an assembly, the GP/Sorensen made one at Advance for $57.00 (at least the one I got) had the chrysler part number on it - therefore - is OEM for $20.00 less than OEM at the dealer.
My EGR Valve Post

Still, I'd clean that connector and check the hoses before even thinking about replacing the valve...
-beans

Edited by Beans, December 6, 2007 at 08:03 pm.


#9 kraigb

kraigb
  • Active Member
  • 12 posts

Posted December 7, 2007 at 08:59 pm

Thanks everyone, for your input. All the wires and connections turned out, so I replaced the EGR unit and the Check Engine Light turned itself off within the first mile driven. The old EGR was pretty black inside too.

(To answer one of the earlier replies, the CEL was on, but I'd been kinda ignoring it since my code reader hadn't turned up anything except the '23' code. Now I know that if my scanner doesn't say anything, I'll take it to an auto parts store for a second opinion).

Just for future information when someone finds this thread on a search, it was straightforward to remove the old valve assembly after removing the big plastic resonator at the front of the enginer. By my hands and wrists are on the smaller side for a guy, so if you're a bigger fellow you'll probably also want to pull the grill from under the wipers for a little easier access. It also helps to pull the wiring harness off of all three connectors as it liked to get in the way of my socket wrench.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

==Kraig

#10 Beans

Beans
  • Active Member
  • 1,064 posts

Posted December 8, 2007 at 01:57 am

Good Job Kraig — that would have cost a good $150.00 if you took it to a garage

That's one of those jobs where a good selection of extensions come in handy so you can get a ratchet going in a cleared area, I seem to recall twisting extensions through the brake lines leading to the master cylinder there
glad to hear you fixed it!
-beans


.
Allpar

Home · Cars · Engines · Repairs · People
Tool and Car Reviews · News

Please read the terms of use and privacy policy. We are not affiliated with Chrysler Group, makers of cars, minivans, trucks, and Mopar (TM) parts. We make no guarantees regarding validity or applicability of information, opinions, or advice. Posts may be edited and used in other parts of allpar.com and affiliated Mopar (Dodge, Chrysler, etc) car related sites. We have the right to remove or modify any message, and to ban or suspend any user without notice. Logos and site-specific information copyright © 2001-2013 Allpar LLC; Chrysler PR materials remain property of Chrysler Group.