Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Minivan Repairs and Performance Tips

Dedicated minivan repair pages

• Rear spring bushing replacement, step by step (1991-96 but probably applies to other years)
• EGR valve replacement
• Oxygen sensor replacement
• Water pump replacement
• Alternator replacement
• Power or manual window quick fix: replacing the window tape
• Front door glass replacement
• Automatic transmission issues (four speed)
• Oil pressure sending unit (oil light) repair
• Timing belt and water pump replacement
• Brake light switch replacement (eliminates cruise-control cutouts)
• Drum brakes: fixing the brakes and replacing brake shoes
• Changing the front axles to eliminate “wiggly” steering (1991-1996 but probably applies to other years)
• Cam sensor repair (for 2.4 liter engines; at ptcruizer.com)
• Intermittent wipers / windshield wiper switch (1996-2000 but may apply to later years)

Little bits

On replacing spark plugs: “On the Caravan with the 3.3, take the bolt out of the front engine mount by the radiator and let the engine rotate forward as far as possible and then set the parking brake. Watch for clearance as you push the car in park and it will work. You can then use a socket extension straight down on the plugs and reach them easier.” (from Ervin)

H. Fiedler wrote about the 1996-2000 minivans: ...a body shop said they "usually rust out at the tops of the strut towers under the hood and the door bottoms."

2001-2003 minivans may be covered for a/c compressor failure under an extended warranty.

Some 2005 minivans made before August 25, 2005, without cruise control, may get a rattle from near the steering wheel; there's a service bulletin on this (19-007-05)  which involves adding a wire under the airbag. This is a fast job for them (half an hour or less) but we do not recommend ordinary people do it!

Rich Thomson recommended that the stock rear bump stop can be replaced by an Energy Suspension Jeep Bump Stop part number 9.9137G. "You need two extra 8mm 1.25 pitch bolts but the part is polyurethane and is a direct bolt-on. My stock rubber deteriorated and the polyurethane will last much longer. My Haynes Shop manual show 1984-1995 as having the same bumpstop."

Most minivan repairs seem to center around the automatic transmission so you may want to check that section first.

Nate Dearyan noted that the instructions for his new 1991 Voyager fuel level sensor - as supplied by Chrysler - were wrong. "The polarity in the instructions is reversed! It would NOT run. Disassembled, and checked everything with a voltage tester, and found that the RED wire on the fuel pump is HOT. And, the Green and Black wire from the front end of the minivan is also hot. Black is ground."

On 2005 minivans with the 2.4 liter engine, poor air conditioning performance can be resolved by having the computer updated (TSB 24-009-05) - it should be free. In addition, on these vehicles made before May 4, 2005, there may be a rough idle after the engine has been off for about ten minutes or less, or simply an erratic idle; a computer update is available. (As always, we ask that you only go to dealers with TSB requests if you have had the specific problem; please don't abuse the system by demanding the latest firmware without cause.)

“grandcaravan01” noted a number of common repairs for 2001+ models:

• Transmissions - bad sensors often misdiagnosed as "need new transmission."
• Electrical problems: body computer prone to problems
• Air conditioning / fan failure: the resistor block, a $15 part, seems to be the primarily point of failure. It can be replaced in minutes and results in both front and back fans stopping.
• Power equipment (e.g. power windows): again, the resistor block shows up.
• Suspension: strut bearings and sway bar links are the weak links but they both tend to be cheap to repair. Be on the lookout for mechanics "exaggerating" suspension problems (which to be fair can be real); second or third opinions can be handy, as with automatic transmissions.

Growling noise (by Matilda Patterson)

A 1996 Dodge Caravan was making a growling noise on the passenger side front end, beginning between 30-35 mph and topping out at around 55 mph. It was more pronounced when making a sharp left turn, or on roads cambered to the right. The usual culprits were investigated: power steering pump failure, bad wheel bearing, etc. The source was determined to be the left wheel bearing, not the right, even though the noise was coming from the right.

In researching this problem, I discovered a relevant service bulletin. ImperialCrown wrote that TSB 19-006-05 addresses a 'shudder' when turning the steering wheel on 01-05 minivans, which occurs at a much lower frequency than a 'growl'. The repair involved adding 34 inches of power steering hose in the return side from the rack, and adding a finned-style power steering cooler if the vehicle was not equipped with one. We coiled the hose up and tucked it neatly below the steering rack. The added length of hose changed the natural resonant frequency of the existing plumbing and eliminates the 'shudder'.

Another possible solution, according to Rick Anderson, is switching to a synthetic power steering fluid.

Headlights

Greg M. wrote about headlights: "It helps to re-aim the lights... mine were pointing to much down... the bubble guide makes it a snap." (Be careful not to aim them too high, or you can blind other drivers...which can be bad for you!)

Avoid "blue tinted" or "simulated HID" headlights, which seem brighter but can hurt your night vision. Be careful of overwattage bulbs - they can melt your wiring or lenses. You can get a wiring harness upgrade kit. Some vendors sell European-specification assemblies - expensive but more clearly focused. See Dan Stern’s site.

Erik wrote: "Plastic headlight housings/lenses cloud over as they age....I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner and #10 Plastic Clear Polish on my lenses every few six months or so after I wash the van. It clears them right up but it does take a lot of elbow grease the first time."

Instrument cluster

Joseph Kan wrote about his 1999 Grand Caravan: "I recently had a complete primary instrument cluster failure. The speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temperature, digital odometer and digital shift indicator all stopped working. Secondary instruments all worked including the warning panel above the primary cluster and the trip computer in the overhead. The vehicle drove fine.  I took it to Brown’s Dulles Dodge and they said I need to replace the whole instrument cluster at over $500. I decided to troubleshoot it myself first before dishing out that kind of cash.

"First, I checked all the fuses and did not find a problem. Because the odometer failed I could not get the fault codes. At a loss, I decided that perhaps the problem was a communication glitch between the computer and the instrument panel. So I removed the “IOD’ fuse from the fuse box under the hood. This is the Ignition Off-draw fuse and removes power from all the normal components that stay on when the ignition is off and key removed. I waited about twenty minutes and replaced the fuse. When I tried the ignition, everything worked even my instrument panel!!!!

"When I disconnected and reconnected power to the computer, it must have reset itself and corrected the communication problem automatically."

Stumble/stutter

Matthew Montanari wrote: my 1993 Town & Country started random stutters — a single stumble and at the same time, the digital speedo reading would change dramatically (from say 55 to 12, then back to 55) in an instant. The tach (and engine) remained steady. This became predictable - it would happen any time I stepped on the gas lightly and lock-up was engaged. The dealer road tested with a DBR and found trans codes changed from P-EMCC to F-EMCC at the moment of stutter, associated that with TSB 18-09-97, and quoted me $1400 for a new front pump assembly and torque converter. I discussed this with a reputable independent transmission shop (Messerschmidt Transmissions in Lebanon, PA) and they felt the problem was entirely electrical. On their advice I checked engine tune before taking the car in for evaluation, and found that my ignition wires were arcing all over - especially at the coil which is next to the cable that connects the transmission ECU to the transmission solenoid pack. Considering the possibility that leaking current was sending bogus signals to the trans ECU I changed the ignition wires. Result: problem solved - no more stumbling. Cost: $40 plus 2 hours of my labor.

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