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Repairs / Fixes
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Convertibles: Jason Baker wrote: I found out the hard way that the convertibles have a different passenger-side mount. This mount, fluid filled, only seems to be available through Mopar ($165). Don't ask me why they're different for convertibles, still trying to figure that one out.
Recall: 1991-1994 two-door P-cars (Shadow/Sundance). According to DC, one of the bolts that attaches the recliner mechanism may break, resulting in the seat back reclining w/o warning. - Paul J. Griglock
Poor handling: Replace the awful Invictas with Yokohama Avid MD-H4s or other high-performance all-weather tires.
Rattle from the back of the car: The screws holding the plastic trim onto the top of the hatch may be loose. Do not overtighten them, because it's easy to bend the sheet metal.
Loud buzzing noise from the rear: Ignore this, it's the fuel pump. (Noise may first grab your attention when the rear seat is down).
Hissing from the steering: On post-1992 models, this is due to the redesign of the steering rack.
Water leak inside the car: Most likely the AC condensation tube is blocked. (AC is on when you use the defroster!). There is a rubber tube on the firewall behind and below the power steering pump. Make sure nothing is blocking the tip. Sometimes you can backflush it with a garden hose or fish out the leaves with a wire. If the condensation drain is open and working, and you still have water on the floor, make sure the cowl drains are clear. The last thing would be to check the gasket that seals the blower fan (under and behind the glove box). If this is leaking, loosen the lower screws, force a bit of strip caulk into the seal gap, and retighten. (Courtesy Bob Meyer)
Oil seepage from the valve cover (onto the spark plugs). This is common and the best fix is to ignore Chrysler and your dealer and get a good mechanic (or yourself) to repair it. Use the instructions in part 4 of the FAQ (four cylinder engines).
Oil puddle on the manual transmission casing: There is a TSB on transmission fluid (oil) leaking from the transaxle vent. Chrysler may fix this even if you are out of warranty. See your dealer.
Rattle from the interior: Remove the center console and put window insulating foam tape on all metal-to-plastic surfaces. Do not interfere with the cables. See details in the FAQ, part 4.
Poor idle (2.2/2.5): Try using better gasoline (Amoco and Mobil appear to work well) - a detergent gasoline is necessary (premium is not) - and replace the spark plugs and rotor (possibly the wires - though you can simply turn them around!)
Speedometer stops working: Pre-1993 models lost contact between the speed sensor and the wire that ran to the computer. Ask your dealer or see the FAQ, part 4.
Flapping noise : "flapping" sound at speeds of 30-35 mph and higher. One mechanic said he thought it was a broken cv joint and axle. This took six mechanics to find. A flap or flange that covers the top of the headlight was loose. (Anne)
Creaking noise from the right or left side: this could be from worn or loose sway bar bushings. C-P of Paramus replaced my bushings and a strut before the service manager blamed it on the body shop (the fix was already detailed in a TSB). I fixed it in about two minutes by tightening the bolts which hold on the sway bar bushing mounts to 50 lb-ft of torque, as per Chrysler specs. (You may have to straighten out or replace the bushings first; there are four mounts, one at each end and one about a foot inward. The one to tighten is the inward one. See the TSB for a diagram of how it should look).
Rust on the bottom doors seams. On my car, this took 3 years to appear. It is be covered by the regular warranty; perforation has its own warranty. Check yours and visit a dealer (then call Chrysler if they refuse to fix it) for repairs. They may try to simply paint over it. They may call it "mere surface rust." Never mind - have it fixed before there's a hole.
More rust on the doors. Check the rear door weatherstripping (on the top of the doors and windows) for severe rust and rot.
Rattle from rear suspension, esp. 1990: might be failure of the rear axle assembly. Have it checked by a competent mechanic (don't say what your suspicions are, because this is an expensive job - $875 at one dealership). Both cases reported to me were 1990 models. (Only 2 cases).
Power loss (turbo): Jason Baker reported problems with power loss on a turbocharged engine; after it went past 0 psi it would hiss and blow like crazy and the boost wouldn't increase much past 5. I found the problem to be the rubber air intake hose from the turbo to the throttle body. It had gone soft over time and was sucking itself shut. This hose is only available through good-old Chrysler for $75 (it's only 12" long). I coiled up a coat-hanger and put it inside the hose to enforce it. That fixed it almost perfectly.... I bought the real hose once I made sure this was the problem.
Oil leak: Joe Coffey fixed the oil leak into the air breather on the 2.2/2.5. It comes in from the upper part of the valve cover and goes to the underside of the air breather. Oil collects in the breather and leaks out onto the engine. This can look like a valve cover gasket problem. Joe took a piece of hose that was fit and used two hose clamps at the ends to stop the leak.
Water leaks again: Mike Maroschak wrote: “After getting tired of 3" of standing water on the passenger side of my 1990 Shadow, I took out the seats and carpet and found there is body caulk where the floor pan meets the vertical panel from the lower door sill. This had turned brittle and was allowing water to seep in every time it rained, you didn't even have to drive the car. It wasn't until I removed 1/2 of the interior that I could witness it. Re-caulked yesterday and took the garden hose to it. So far so good! It seems like no 2 pieces actually fit together very well. Caulking everywhere.”
Other problems: see the FAQ or our repairs page.
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