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1971 Charger Repaint

Discussion in 'All other classic cars' started by 71Charger_fan, Dec 23, 2017.

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  1. dana44

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    Instead of poking a hole and grommet into the firewall, given the way you have so far shown your intent to stock looking and original, a bit of a hassle to take apart if needed later, but take the bulkhead connector and simply open up the hole the male and female connectors go through and open them up a little bit so the plugs will not stay in place, so you can push the whole wire through one way or the other, and solder them together and keep them in the proper location. You can shrink wrap if you want, but then push it back into place and if there is a problem in the future, you'll probably end up cutting the wire anyway, but not have an extra questionable wire going through the bulkhead. I have done this so the female wire is still intact so it can be clicked into the bulkhead connector, the male connector the "free moving" connector that floats in its holder.
     
    #61 dana44, Jul 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
  2. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    Since I have concealed headlamps, I already have a hole and grommet in the firewall for the headlamp door motor harness which has plenty of room for two more wires. I figured that by going through there, the fuse block wouldn't have to be pulled if the main power wires need to be cut and spliced in the future.
     
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  3. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I pulled the dash side of the black wire that's fed from the alternator from the bulkhead disconnect and fed the engine side of the alternator feed wire I removed from the harness through the firewall grommet. I also fed an red extra ammeter to bulkhead disconnect wire through the grommet into the engine compartment and bolted it to the ammeter's black wire and taped it up. I'll connect this red wire to the battery feed through the grommet. I'm just leaving the pre-existing red ammeter to bulkhead disconnect in the car as I don't want to have to unwrap the underdash harness. Since the new 10 gauge wire from the alternator will carry the load, I'm wondering if I just replace the male Packard 56 terminal with a more conventional .25 male terminal, if I can avoid cutting the black wire that I removed from the bulkhead disconnect. It has a larger cross section than the Packard 25. That would leave the underdash wiring changes completely reversible. php2KlFY4AM.jpg phpHla470AM.jpg phppjJshdAM.jpg phpzjDkGaAM.jpg
     
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  4. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    USPS dropped off some supplies, so I guess I need to get back to work. Advertised as USA-made, so I was willing to wait. phpsvjWmnPM.jpg
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  5. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I robbed a wire with the correct plug from a spare harness to make the 12V feed for the voltmeter and terminated the new 10 ga. wire at the alternator. I also reattached the bulkhead disconnect and continued re-wrapping the engine harness. I also got a spray out from the body shop for color approval.
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  6. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I was doing final checks on the circuits in the dashboard and realized my rear defogger switch was missing its "title lamp." So, again, I dug through my wiring graveyard and found one that had its wiring cut. So, I found a length of the correct size wire (wrong color though) with the proper plug molded onto it and spliced them together. I just had to clean some corrosion off the bulb base and it works good as new. I also gave up on figuring out where and orphan black-with-white tracer wire coming out of the wiper switch bundle is supposed to go and called M&H. Their tech line told me it was power to the heat. I checked it with a test light and it wasn't a live wire (I verified the fuses were good). The black-with-white tracer wire that provides power to the heater/AC fan is where it should be in the molded plug to the AC controls. It appears it's for cars without AC, so I just taped it off.
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  7. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I picked up an AMD dual exhaust-cutout rear valance and a heater-A/C vacuum switch with no broken nipples at Carlisle.
     
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  8. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    Since I still had most of the dash pulled apart, I decided today to install the new heater-A/C harness I had provided to the shop that worked on my car, but had not been installed. I had to pull the bulkhead disconnect to remove two leads and replace them with leads from the new harness. Overall, it wasn't a bad job at all.
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  9. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    Today, I got the dash bezel back in and the steering column back up only to find the turn signal switch stalk flopping around. So, off with the wheel to see what the problem was. With a Grant wheel and adapter, there are a lot of extra fasteners to take out to get to the switch. Once I got down to it, it was simply the screw holding the stalk to the switch had come loose. That was a lot of disassembly to tighten a screw, but it had to be done.
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  10. dodgeismycar

    dodgeismycar Well-Known Member

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    You are one very ambitious guy.
    Good luck with everything!
     
  11. LouJC

    LouJC Active Member

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    looking great, I remember when those cars were new. Nice to have a vehicle that you can actually work on!
     
  12. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    The grant wheel adapter was tapped 1/4-28. Of course, my steering wheel puller had 2 of those. Fortunately, being a pack rat, I found a third that I must have salvaged from some old appliance. It was quite a bit longer than the 2 that came with the puller, but a stack of 5/16 nuts made up for that. Today, starting putting the wheel back on, got to the point where I needed the nut and couldn't find it. I knew it had to be within an arms reach of the driver seat, but it just seemed to have disappeared. Eventually, I walked out to the street, fetched the recyling bin, walked back into the garage, looked in the car, and it was sitting right on the shifter. It had been in a perfect blind spot hidden behind the slapstick handle and a roll of electrical tape.
     
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  13. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    Today was a good day. After getting the dash and steering column back in, I hooked up the battery and turned the key. I was very relieved when it started. Next, I think I will make up a new engine harness for an HEI ignition. It would be nice to be as to lose the ballast resistor.
     
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  14. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I dug out a new points engine harness and have started planning out converting the ignition to HEI. I bought the designed-to-drive bracket to mount the HEI to the underside of the distributor. However, I may instead mount the HEI module to the backside of the radiator support to better allow it to cool and make it so I wouldn't have to pull the distributor to replace the module. I found part of a Mopar electronic ignition harness that I think was attached to the junkyard 400 I bought years go to harvest a plug to connect to the distributor. To keep everything consistent, I'm going to buy a roll of blue-with-white-tracer primary wire to extend the ignition run circuit from the firewall to the front of the engine compartment. I just don't know if I should go with the Ford or GM style coil.
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  15. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    Now that I've ordered and received a roll of blue-with-white-tracer wire, I realized that I don't need it. I just have to connect the blue/white ignition run wire at the ballast to the two brown start circuit wires at the ballast. Oh well. Doesn't hurt to have extra wire around. I'll just put a 1/4" spade terminal on each end of a short length of wire, plug one end into the run wire and one end into the start wire and tape them up. That way I don't have to cut a perfectly good engine harness.
     
  16. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I bought the GM part for Chevy/GMC trucks to hold the coil and HEI module. I think it'll fit nicely on the backside of the core support. I'll just need to get a much longer coil wire.
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  17. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    I bought the AC Delco heat sink for mounting the HEI module. Although the mounting screw holes are spaced apart correctly, they're too close to the fins making it impossible to attach the module without drilling new holes. Additionally, the holes for the module's locating pins aren't even close to being correct. I would have thought if anyone knew HEI, it would have been AC Delco.
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  18. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    After some drilling and filing, I have a usable heat sink.
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  19. 71Charger_fan

    71Charger_fan Active Member

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    So, I've thrown up my hands regarding my dash/interior harness. I've spent many hours tracing circuits and fixing weird things. However, every time I turn on the headlights, the instrument lights fuse blows immediately and the dome light refuses to turn off. So, I've spent the money and purchased another new harness and am checking it, circuit by circuit, before it goes in the car. I'm also marking the plugs because I'm going to have the paint shop pull the dash to paint it and have them go ahead and install the harness while the dash is out. Oddly, this harness also has the extra black-with-white-tracer wire popping out of the bundle with the wiper switch plug. However, this time, there's continuity between that terminal and the heater-A/C fuse where there wasn't in the harness that's in the car. I have no idea if the harness that's in the car was incorrectly manufactured or if the shop that had it butchered it. Either way, this time it'll be right.
     
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  20. dana44

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    Happened to me, so, check the connection that goes to the tail lights. My dash harness did a melt-together when a tail lightbulb got taken out and the wire grounded to the tail light housing. The only way I figured it out was when I was installing the new harness in the dash I noticed the connection to the tail light pigtail (behind panel behind emergency brake pedal), was slightly melted, which I knew wasn't right.
    From there, it sounds like the dome light might have something to do with it, also, which is the accessories wiring, and that the melting has something to do with that (pink and yellow wires?), whereas the short is blowing the instrument lights (may also be the tail lights, like on my '68 Charger), and then crossing power to the dome light switch wiring (accessory wiring, bypassing the door jamb switch when it shorts.
     
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