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1977 Chrysler LeBaron 4-door base model owner.

Discussion in 'F-J-M: Volare, Diplomat, etc, 1977-89' started by 77LeBaron, Feb 3, 2017.

  1. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Most likely a 904, very small chance it could be a 727.
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    When I had this problem in a car it was the rheostat (dimmer) in the headlight switch. But it could be anything on the circuit.
     
  3. ImperialCrown

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    The pan shape is the easiest way to tell the difference. The 727 has a 'nub' at the dipstick tube base at the right, front corner:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. geraldg

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    Didn't the police versions have the 727 ?
     
  5. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    There were no police LeBarons in 1977.
     
  6. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Yes it was the blown fuse all interior lights, Break Lights, and the Chonomatic Clock are working .I never messed with the bulb on the drivers side which is now out .
     
  7. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Thankyou I will be under the LeBaron Tomorrow to change the oil and locate the oil leak and now transmission leak location.
     
  8. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I took the LeBaron out for another 100 miles today . The idle was a little rough yesterday and today so I poured in some carburetor /fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank. It seems to have made the idling much better. The Anti-freeze smell is there the A/C is ice cold . What happens is when the A/C is in full cool mode and I moved the lever to warmer a gas vapor cloud comes out of the vents so I know it must be coolant . Any experts on this ? I will go another 100 and then fill up again and post my MPGs a good combo of City / HWY .
     
  9. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Heater core is shot. Fix before it bursts. My truck smelled faintly like this for 2 years, and since it hadn't failed, I had just about decided it wasn't that, when it began fogging the windshield. When I replaced it, there was already a green puddle in the airbox.
     
  10. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    The visible fumes only appear when the A/C is on and I moved the temperature lever to a warmer setting and the visible fumes come out the vents. The heater core job is beyond my skill level so I will be paying out the you know what. I also got the MPG on my first full tank of gas and it was disappointing 13.75 MPG. Maybe a tune up is in order. I do have the shop manual coming in soon and will be able to handle most skill level one tasks.
     
  11. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    If it smells like maple syrup or molasses, it's antifreeze - heater core. If it has a slightly oily smell, it's freon.
     
  12. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Bob it is an antifreeze odor . Well I changed the oil and filter . While underneath the vehicle it appears the transmission leak is coming from as best I could see the top of the transmission where engine and tranny unite, no leaks in the gaskets where I could view, The oil leaks all appear to be from the oil pan seals. Any idea what is causing the tranny leaks. Oh and it is appears to be the 904 Transmission based on the pan shape.
     
  13. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Not sure if they still have this feature, but transmissions used to have a small vent covered by a cap on top of the transmission. If there is foaming of the fluid due to a malfunction or an overfill, it's possible it could come out that vent.
    Antifreeze could also be from a loose hose clamp or other leak, and the smell blowing in. I didn't lose any measurable amount before fogging.
     
  14. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    I think it's called a heater control valve, or maybe a temperature control valve. Is coolant leaking onto your carpet? If so, check this part before tackling the heater core. If not, it's probably leaking under the hood, which should hopefully be easy enough to find. Check the heater hoses where they connect to the heater core along the firewall. Have you checked to see if you're losing coolant? The heater core might just need flushing, which can be done with those hoses off.

    The oil pan bolts could be loose, though they should just be snug, not tight. Or, your pan gasket might need replacing.

    Check the bolts where the trans connects to the engine. They usually don't come loose, but it's possible. They need tighter torquing than the oil pan bolts.
     
  15. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    I believe on the LeBaron of that vintage the temperature control valve may still be under the hood.
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  16. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I am not really mechanically inclined and although when I was a poorer man I did do the work , now that I am older I will most likely have the block and tranny pulled and reconditioned , and the heater core issues dealt with also. My gas mileage is about 14 mpg city 40% , HWY 60% what are 318s in M bodys supposed to get MPG wise ? I just did the oil + filer change , weather permitting I will change the spark plugs, is ther a PCV valve and where is it at ? The Air cleaner is good. I do not mind doing the skill level one tasks . I do enjoy the hell out of this car it is becoming my daily driver ! Let the slobs shell out 25 grand for some new one ! I have a beautiful Honda Odyssey which is my pickup/cargo/travel van American assembled in Huntsville Alabama just to remind you I buy American or as close to American as it comes these days ! My other ride which I donated to a museum was a 1964 Cadillac Fleetwood 60 Special great for show but not for daily driving like the LeBaron !
     
  17. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    There's a part called a water valve in one of the heater hoses. This part often failed, and since replacements only lasted a year or so, owners often removed it and inserted a spacer, or replaced it and both hoses with a longer hose. It might be worth checking to see if the water valve is restricting coolant flow. I don't know if this is the same as the temperature control valve; if not, where would he find it? Flushing the heater core is recommended; remove the hoses from the heater core connections on the firewall, attach cut garden hoses to each one, and pour water through each of them until it comes out clean.

    I'm fast approaching geezerhood too, but I try to perform what maintenance, repairs and replacements I can myself. It's much more economical than to employ a repair shop. But too often, I have problems with diagnostics. Here's where the shop manual helps. Has yours arrived yet? If so, you might consult it before taking it to a garage. Hopefully, you've found one locally that you can trust, and that knows Mopars. But don't have them tackle your engine, transmission or heater core unless and until you know that these have major problems. To help prevent transmission problems, keep the trans fluid at its proper level. You already changed the oil and filter, which is good for your engine. Have you examined your coolant level and condition yet?

    According to this site,

    http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/chrysler/le_baron_1gen/le_baron_1gen_coupe/1977.html

    it should return 13.5 mpg, so you're within range. The 318 is a good workhorse engine, and with proper care, it should last you lots of miles, but it's not known for fuel efficiency. During those years, it was also bogged down with smog equipment, which degraded both mileage and performance. The top freeway speed limit was 55 mph, which probably got it a better mileage rating when new. The relatively flat front doesn't help with wind flow. The ethanol in today's gasoline also degrades mileage. I've read of ethanol-free gas stations; if one is near you, you might fill up there, and see if mileage improves. But it won't hurt to tune it up, if that's what it needs. The PCV valve should be on one of the valve covers, with a hose connecting it to the air cleaner housing. If it needs replacing, you're probably better off with an original Mopar PCV valve, if you can find one. Also, check the EGR. It could occasionally clog, and yours might need cleaning. And the gas filter is too often ignored. On older Mopars, I used to change it once per year.
     
  18. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Any pics yet??? Would love to see them...
     
  19. Citation84

    Citation84 Well-Known Member

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    Love these. I always thought they were better looking than the Ms that followed simply because of the tail lights, bumper integration and grilles.

    Of course that didn't stop my lusting for an 86 Fifth Avenue..... And buying a Plymouth Fury M Body 1/24 die cast. There is even a 77-78 LeBaron wagon offered in that format I would also like.

    And yes to the pics !!!!
     
  20. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Hey thank you for the response the shake down cruise continues. I did notice a vapor like fume coming from the firewall on the heater hose side when I popped the hood after 100 MILE CRUISE . The radiatior was low 3/4 of a gallon well the coolant recovery bottle was empty so I poured in a gallon of antifreeze. Now I will drive tomorrow to check the coolant level. The oil and tranny leaks are not that drastic. I have over 500 miles on the ride and it sounds better than ever every time blowing out the crud from the engine., it idles much better and purrs on the road at any speed. Like you I am diagnostics weak. I felt under the heater inlet hose but no leak, but I had the heater off . Thee EGR must be original the car was made in 06/1977 . The EGR itself is a hollow tube the rubber insert into the cover has the mechanics and they still move freely. The MPGs are disappointing but if that is what the rating is so be it ! The car came from a high altitude 5000 ft plus so I thought it might be an adjustment on the carb. Now the fuel filter location is where ? I will change out the sparks next on a nice day. Thanks for the input .
     

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