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1977 Chrysler LeBaron 4-door base model owner.

Discussion in 'F-J-M: Volare, Diplomat, etc, 1977-89' started by 77LeBaron, Feb 3, 2017.

  1. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I love the 82 -86 5TH Avenue interiors ! The chrome radio , heater controls and headlight controls all chromed. I am looking to swap out those into my 1977. The only feature I hated on those care was the Ford Fairmont type vents on the front quarter panels they turned me off big time. I am shopping for the split bench front seats, the rear window defogger and the cruise control option, A long shot is the power window door panels . For now just get the car up to specs. ! I also kind of like the 90's era 5th Avenues.
     
    Citation84 likes this.
  2. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    I will try to post pics soon after the shake down cruise and vehicle diagnostics.
    1977 LeBaron base model, A/C, AM/FM Radio, Bench Seats , Chronomatic clock, factory green tint windows, Power steering, power brakes , Spinnaker White, with green vinyl top, with green interior.

    My interior color green Bench Seat:
    http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/colorAndTrim/1977/77_LeBaron_0006.jpg
    My Vinyl Roof Green Code F , link
    http://www.hamtramck-historical.com...AndTrim/1977/77_LeBaron_Tops_Stripes_0002.jpg
     
    #42 77LeBaron, Feb 15, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  3. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    It should be between the fuel pump and the carburetor. Look for the hose that connects the two, and either a metal or plastic canister, maybe 2 or 3 inches long. I personally prefer the clear plastic ones, as you can see the condition of the filter. I used to buy them at swap meets for $1 each. They're easy to replace, just remove 2 clamps, remove the old filter from the hose, and reverse for installing the new one. Or at least, they should be easy to replace; sometimes, the filter was located behind the alternator, which complicated the job. If so, you can buy a length of fuel hose at a parts store (it should be 5/16"), and cut it so that the filter is in an easier spot for you to access. Depending on the condition of your hose, you might want to replace it anyway. I'm assuming a rubber hose; older Mopars had metal fuel lines, with 2-inch rubber hose connectors for the filter. Not sure what yours has. There should be an arrow on the filter indicating fuel flow; you'll want to install it with the arrow pointing to the carburetor.

    Another thought; your earlier rough idling might have been due to bad gas. You reported that the car had been sitting for a year, which means that the gas had also been sitting for that long. Driving it around enough and refilling the tank may have cleared it out. You might also remove the gas cap and check the inside of the tube for rust. I hope you don't have it, but if you do, having the tank boiled out at a radiator shop is one option. If you do so, first remove the rubber grommet connecting the tube to the tank, as the acid will disintegrate it. The other option is replacing the tank with a new one, or one from a junkyard that's not rusted. Good luck finding either. Meanwhile, you might consider installing another gas filter before the fuel pump so that the rust doesn't damage the pump. You'll probably want to change the filters more frequently, and definitely use plastic filters so that you can see the condition. But if you don't have rust, none of these steps are necessary.

    Regarding coolant, my Dakota had a slight leak, which I felt just below the hose connecting to the heater core. I tightened the screw clamp, which eliminated that problem. You report no leak at that location on your car, but you're obviously losing coolant somewhere. Is there any evidence of leaking coolant elsewhere? It might help to put a piece of cardboard on the garage floor under the engine when you park for the night (after running the heater), then check it in the morning. If it's dry, then I fear that Bob's right about the heater core needing replacement. If you tackle the job yourself after you receive the shop manual, it will be time-consuming. If you have a repair shop replace it, it will be costly.
     
  4. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    s-l16001.jpg s-l16009.jpg s-l1600.jpg s-l16001.jpg s-l1600TV48BM41.jpg s-l16005.jpg s-l160088.jpg s-l1600.jpg s-l16001.jpg Thank You for the information I am awaiting the arrival of the shop manual and I am reacquainting myself with the lay of the land so to speak on this LeBaron my first car was 1976 Plymouth Volare Premier with the same 318 power plant. I am also awaiting warmer weather to perform most of the tasks needed. If beyond my skill level the professionals will be hired. Here are some very recent pictures of the LeBaron from the previous owners.
     
    Citation84, Scrounge and Bob Lincoln like this.
  5. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Nice car - but finding any green seats to swap in will be difficult. green was only offered a couple of years and probably was one of the lower production colors.

    I believe the LeBaron is one of few cars that did not use a different door panel for power windows. Instead there was a woodgrain panel that covered the area, so you may be able to swap that from any color door panel to yours.
     
  6. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Took the LeBaron on another 100 mile cruise and Today was the day indeed 60 miles from the house the HEATER CORE GAVE OUT ! I thought if the heater was not on I would exempt from that . Great thanks to God , a chance of fate ,or dumb luck happened I took the wrong turn to a Walmart when the temp gauge started towards the red . I pulled into this rural of the road home I thought abandoned, and a nice elderly gentleman came out and started to admire the car and said his dad worked the Chrysler dealership as a mechanic and knew those cars well he had a 1966 Charger in the back . He immediately cooled down the engine by hosing down the radiator and quickly bypassed the heater ! I was back on the road in 5 minutes ! The heater core box I presume has a drainage hole in the firewall and all the radiator fluid was shooting out of this rubber hose, I onle had a small amount in the driver/passenger side below the dash probably because I ran the heater hoping to shoot all the excess coolant out the now disconnected hoses. I will bide my time and find the best qualified place to do the repairs I heard that the A/C has to be disconnected for the heater box so it will be more complicated that I thought or am equipped to handle. The engine and tranny are getting stronger every drive hit the 600 mile mark this day , leaks are minimal the tranny leak is somewhere from the top area and the axle to transmission connection. Will keep my fellow M body fanatic's updated.
     
    Citation84 likes this.
  7. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Yes I did notice that in photos of the electric vs roller widow pictures and wondered if I could just find those electric window trim pieces the motors are so easy to come by at around $30-40 each. Is there much more modifications on the window channel ?
     
  8. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    I've never converted one, but the difference internally is the whole regulator assembly and motor. You'd have to swap the internals of the power window door into yours.
     
  9. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    The drainage hose from the airbox is for the A/C condensate, but a leaky heater core will drain out there.
    The classic quick-fix for a leaking heater core is to bypass it by connecting the two heater hoses to each other.
     
  10. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Now that my LeBaron is in heater bypass mode I am going to flush the system until clean and replace all hoses . I am not using a radiator flush , I have heard they can cause gasket leaks . Any mild solutions to use,I have heard people say vinegar, baking soda, CLR , etc.
     
    Bob Lincoln likes this.
  11. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    On more minor problem a screw which goes into the base of the mirror to keep the mirror from shaking is missing from my mirror, anyone know the size , or part number. I would hate to Gorilla glue the mirror to the metal base .
     
    #51 77LeBaron, Feb 18, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2017
  12. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    I find a Mopar part # of 6031094 for that screw (since discontinued). You can use that part # as a reference in your search. It is described as a pan-head tapping 0.19-16x0.375" screw.
    I see it listed in Arizonaparts inventory:
    Search Parts List
    Make sure that the threads are still OK in the mirror base and that they haven't been stripped out before buying the screw.
     
    Citation84 likes this.
  13. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Nice car -- I see why you love it.

    Sorry to read of your heater core going out while driving. Agreed, you were lucky to have found a Mopar enthusiast to help you. When you have the heater core replaced, you might ask the mechanic to trace the trans fluid leak. I don't think radiator flush is a problem, though you probably don't need it if you're going to thoroughly flush the system; clear water alone should work. The stop-leak additives are what should be avoided. But if your radiator is clogged, take it to a radiator shop to have it rodded out. Or replace it with a new one.

    Regarding the seats, you might consider a seat cover to reduce wear. There's supposed to be a good Mopar junkyard in northern Alabama; if it still exists, you might make that destination one of your road trips. You might find your mirror screw there.

    This is where Mopars go to dieā€¦ | Roadtrippers
     
  14. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Thanks ImperialCrown For the help. Just put 1000 miles on the LeBaron all sounds well minus the noted problems!
     
  15. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Thankyou again Imperial Crown for all the parts numbers and expertise I have gotten all my needed parts minus my windshield which can wait for now until the repaint ! Good to be among M body friends !
     
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  16. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Are not the regular window assembly functional on the roll up or power motor setup with minor modifications?
     
  17. valiant67

    valiant67 Rich Corinthian Leather
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    Not usually.
     
  18. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I've never had an issue using any cooling system chemical flush.
     
  19. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    With a car that old, the solder/braze joints are more vulnerable to chemical flushes than a newer car. I would only use gentle water pressure.
     
  20. 77LeBaron

    77LeBaron Member

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    Thankyou Bob Lincoln that is what I shall do I had a car before I used a flush on and my water pump seals went . Good news on all fronts I have found all my missing or damaged trim pieces , and have the complete 1977 Shop Manuel and Supplemental manual.
     

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