Discussion in 'EEK! - Every Extended-K Car' started by Beowulfcav, Apr 7, 2015.
Hah go figure, thanks for the information on the parking brake return system.
Hello again, I've got some more info I would like to share. Recently I replaced the passenger side and transmission motor mounts in this car. It helped reduce the shaking but I still have to replace the front one before it gets much better it seems. I had a question about the drive shaft and was wondering if I might have done something wrong when I installed the two mounts.
Here is an image of the drive shaft at the transmission/driver's side.
Notice how it's almost touching the drive shaft, when I put the new mount in I had to raise the transmission about an inch or so and it was a little worrying how close to the driveshaft it is. The old mount was undoubtedly bad but this new one didn't fit exactly and I had to shave some rubber off the apex of the triangular shape that faces down to get it in the bracket. Even then it fit pretty snugly in there.
There's the mount itself.
Now here's the driveshaft on the passenger side.
There's a bit of shiny metal showing between the boot and the side of the driveshaft that goes back towards the driver's side. I have a feeling that isn't supposed to happen?
Here's the other mount.
Is it me or is that sagging/buckling there? I get the feeling I need to use a prybar and make some adjustments.
Oh and here is the inside of that airbox. The spongy filter for the crankcase ventilation is clogged up badly, so I'm getting another soon. Cleaned it up and put it back together for now.
I heard making modifications to the air box/intake to increase airflow helps driveability, this airbox and intake seem very restrictive with the flapper and small air intake hole in front of the battery and the long winding path the air has to take to get to the TB. Anyone have experience with that? Even if I did I wouldn't know what to do with that crankcase ventilation.
Here's a shot of my cat and O2 sensor (throwing a code 21)
Looking pretty rough, here's a shot of the cable connector to the O2 sensor and the ground cable to the engine.
Don't know how to get that odd nut/bolt off so I can clean the contact points of the ground so I tightened it back up. The ground cable itself looks to be in very rough condition. I'll be checking the O2 sensor and the cable with a multimeter but I don't have the service manual so I think the best I can do is make sure it's getting voltage and check resistance.
I fixed a vacuum leak I found using some throttle body cleaner, but still working on getting it to look like the vacuum diagram. I'm glad it's so simple for my engine.
I adjusted the kickdown/TV cable for my transmission to try to stop that odd 2-3 shift happening way too early and it seems to have worked after a test drive. Only problem is the part of the cable that sits at the throttle itself seems like it's got a little too much play.
That little gap there. Here's another angle.
Here's a shot of the lever that the cable pulls on, it's dirty like the whole transmission. Covered in black gunk, but it moves freely.
Here's another line on the throttle that goes to the brake booster looking very loose, too much slack.
and my favorite a jerry-rigged PCV elbow, getting a proper one asap
I also have a feeling this check valve is on backwards, diagram has narrow end facing the line that goes to the TB.
The vacuum lines in this car are also missing the orifice that goes from the PCV valve T-connector to the T-connector that goes on the check valve line.
That's all for now, thanks for any tips and wisdom you might impart on me.
When it says inner edge does it mean the part of the boot that faces the other boot or the part of the boot facing the center of the car?
Im assuming i stick a retractable tape measure under the car and measure the gap between the boots of the CV that face each other on the same axle? And that's without lifting the car?
Inner edge means the edge closer to the center of the car, for each boot. Yes, measure with a tape measure or stick, and with the car on the ground, full weight on the wheels.
Alright thanks, I'll go follow that guide
New development on the O2 sensor. I tested the wiring harness that connects directly to it and it's got no power going to it.
The harness that sits next to the TB near the PCV valve does get the 12 volts going through it though. So somewhere along the cable that runs across behind the valve cover connects to the IAC and then to the O2 sensor has gotten messed up badly enough to not transmit the 12 volts to the O2 sensor. It's a pretty short cable but it also connects to the IAC.
I want to replace the whole thing, any ideas where I could get that part?
I'll use google-fu but if my google-fu isn't strong enough or there aren't any I'm guessing I'll have to make a new one myself, a first for me.
Maybe the IAC isn't getting power either, though to test I'll have to take the airbox off, would explain the crappy idle though.
Here's an image of the harness that has power.
and the really ragged one that doesn't, honestly it doesn't surprise me considering the condition it's in but that ground is tricky to get off.
Generally pieces of the wiring harness are not available. You'd have to buy the whole harness from a dealer and if it was still available would be very expensive. The choice is either to patch yours or find one in a junkyard.
I guess I'll learn how to repair or junkyard it.
I may have not diagnosed this properly. While the harness connection at the TB has 12v running through it it's at the small pin around the center. According to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual it's the larger pins on the four corners of the harness that connect to the O2 sensor and I wasn't getting power through any of them. The diagram doesn't make it easy in regards to backtracking or finding which is supposed to carry the 12v.
Hayes may not be accurate. You really should look at the wiring diagrams in the factory service manual.
I dont have it sadly
I found a black/green cable that goes directly to the ECU, that one carries .3v when key is turned to on position. The other cables carry none or little voltage when key is in on position.
I tried to test while the car was on too. The black/green was the same but a cable adjacent to ground was carrying 14v, then what I assumed to be the IAC started hissing and the idle got pretty terrible, car was shaking and everything and the hissing got louder. So I turned off the car and waited a bit, then turned it on and everything was back to normal.
I really ought to get that service manual haha, either way that blasted wiring harness is in terrible shape I can only imagine that has something to do with the O2 sensor problem. All the wires leading up to the connector are bare for about 1/4 of an inch or so.
FSM shows that 1992 Spirit has 4 wires to the O2 sensor. One is the heating element (12V), one is the ground for it, one is the signal, and one is the signal ground. The black with dark green stripe is the O2 sensor signal. One of the white wires is ground, and it goes to the black/tan wire that leads to the block ground. The other white wire is the heater element, and it will only have 12V on it with key on and engine stone cold. After about 2 minutes, the heater element shuts off, as the sensor reaches its operating temperature. So you need to check those wires with engine sitting overnight.
I have a problem in that the wires to the harness are in such terrible condition that I can't tell what color they are but this helps a lot anyway. Now I know it has to be stone cold before testing and that it's the connector that goes to one of the white wires. Thanks as always.
Hi I'm also having an issue with my transmission on my 92 spirit V6 3-speed trans. The transmission is taking way too long to switch to the next gear so I assumed my trans was totally gone but with only 102K miles, seemed weird. At the same time I have this gas pedal issue where upon first putting the car into drive, the gas pedal seems to "stick" and I have to apply extra force to get it past a very basic threshold. After I press hard and "pop" it down, it doesn't stick anymore until the next time I start the car and drive. THIS IS WHERE IT GETS CONFUSING: I noticed the gas pedal issue and the transmission issue are related because one time I tried not pressing the pedal down hard past the threshold to see how well it would accelerate. Well, although it accelerated super slowly, the transmission behaved absolutely normal, switching gears at the proper speed and Rpm's. But as soon as I press too hard and pop he gas pedal down, it's back to being messed up. Does anyone have any ideas on what's going on? Thanks so much. -josh
Welcome to Allpar. I have seen this happen. The battery tray is mounted just above the shifter and throttle kickdown linkage and cables on the transaxle.
Battery acid 'mists' onto this area causing corrosion of the moving parts.
You might want to begin with a fresh water rinse of the area followed by freeing up and oiling the linkage. Normally linkages don't get oiled as it attracts dirt, but oil will keep the acid from re-corroding the mechanism.
In serious cases, I have seen the throttle and concentric shift shaft bind together in the transaxle case from corrosion. This may take more work and possible disassembly to correct the binding/sticking condition.
The V6 may have a throttle kickdown rod instead a cable (like the 4-cyls).
Automatic transmission cars have a kickdown cable attached to the throttle body which controls the upshift and downshift of the transmission. Since your problem is tied to the throttle, it's almost certain that the kickdown cable is binding, misadjusted, etc. Look for a cable that goes from the throttle body to the transmission. As you pull the throttle open (engine off), watch that cable for smooth operation. It should start moving just a hair after you open the throttle.
Very, very unlikely that there is anything wrong with the transmission.
I have the same power train. In addition to the previous suggestions, at the top of the tranny, there is a ball and socket which couples the kickdown cable and the kickdown lever on the tranny. I have had that ball and socket freeze up. You can pop it loose and/or spray some PB Blaster on it and under it to free up. You should be able to grasp the cable/linkage at that point and work it back and forth. There is a spring in the cable which will pull the whole mechanism back once you release it. If it does that, your good to go.
To expand on what IC said, the first thing to check is your kick down lever at the trans.
The gear selector lever is the one with detents, that clicks as you change gears.
Inside that hollow shaft, is the kickdown shaft, and it's lever operates independently from the shift shaft/lever.
It should move freely and spring back when pulled by the throttle, even with the trans in park and engine off.
If not, it has become fused, or partially fused to the gear selector shaft.
When totally fused, it will pull the trans from drive to neutral when the accelerator is depressed.
As IC mentioned, a cleaning and lube sometimes frees up the shafts but not always. It can take several cleaning lube cycles to become totally free.
Just read through this, lots of info in this thread!! I wonder if the OP ever got his Spirit straightened out...