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1994 Duster 3.0l - not starting after accident

Discussion in 'EEK! - Every Extended-K Car' started by gtrdave, Apr 21, 2018.

  1. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    Long story-short: my daughter's Sundance Duster rear-ended a Camry last year. Airbag deployed. My kid is fine, but the Duster was not.
    Because the car only had 32k miles on it and is practically new, we opted to tackle the repair ourselves w/ the help of a local body shop who straightened the frame and replaced the core support and a $350 donor car for most everything else.
    I have not yet replaced the clock spring or airbag, but I do have both ready to go in. I also have the donor crash sensors, but haven't put those in yet.

    Anyway, just this morning I'm at a point where I can try and start the car for the first time since the accident.
    Turn the key and I don't hear the fuel pump.
    The car cranks, but does not start. Everything appears to be wired in properly. I've checked a few times.

    Is there anything obvious that I'm overlooking when dealing with a post-crash vehicle?
     
  2. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    There is no inertia switch like on a Ford. It'd possible the fuel pump has just went bad sitting. That happened to my neighbor's car (she drove it once a year, to be inspected and the rest of the year her daughter drover her around). The pump just gummed up from the old gas.
     
  3. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Check underhood electrical. Something pinched or unplugged?
     
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  4. neon98rt

    neon98rt Well-Known Member

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    was that battery in the crash?
     
  5. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    I've checked the wiring 3 times today and found nothing out of the ordinary, but I'll look around again.
    Yes, the battery was in the crash, but the car is cranking just fine.
    I'm suspicious of the ECU. The case it was in was cracked up, but the board seemed to survive the crash.
    I did happen to pick up another 3.0l ECU from another '94 Duster today, so I'm going to give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens.
     
  6. neon98rt

    neon98rt Well-Known Member

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    did you unhook the fuel line at the engine and put on a pressure test or just unhook it and see if you have pressure?
    I would drop the tank and check the pump.
     
  7. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    There's your prime suspect.
     
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  8. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

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    Does that car have an IOD fuse in the box? If so, check it. Just another suggestion.
     
  9. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    A used ECU to test should be fairly inexpensive at a junkyard or on eBay if tht turns out to be the case. These are simple - no VINs to program.
     
  10. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    Update: I installed the new ECU and now I've got a running fuel pump, but still no starting.
    I checked for spark at a plug wire and then at the coil wire into the dist. cap - nothing, no spark.

    Today I guess I'm checking the coil and...?
     
  11. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Have you checked for fault codes yet?
     
  12. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    12 11 55 in that order.
     
  13. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Aha.

    Code 11 The engine has not cranked since the battery was disconnected.

    This is based on not seeing a signal from the distributor pickup. It may be damaged, or its connector not fully or tightly mated.
     
  14. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    I just checked and everything appears to be connected at both sides of the coil and from the distributor and the dist. rotor is spinning while cranking.
     
  15. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Could be left over stored code from the collision, when engine stalled.
     
  16. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    Well, this is from the other ECU I got the other day.
    The former/original ECU got damaged in the crash.
    I'm going to check the rest of the left side harness and connectors to make sure there's nothing broken that I might have missed.
     
  17. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    Okay I'm back with an update: sadly, no news. I've checked all of the wiring and everything looks good.
    I've still got no spark at the coil wire, so where do I trace from there?
    A relay? If so, which one?
    The coil pack?

    I'm at a loss and I'd really like to get this thing running soon.
     
  18. AllanC

    AllanC Well-Known Member

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    Try this test. It must be as quiet as possible in the area of the vehicle. Engage the starter for a few seconds and then return the ignition key to the RUN / ON position. Do you hear the electric fuel pump continue to run for 1 - 2 seconds and then stop? If YES then the PCM (powertrain control module) is receiving a pulsing signal from the crankshaft position sensor. If NO then you need to check the wiring at this sensor and determine why it is not producing the expected signal.

    If you are getting a crankshaft position sensor signal then you need to check for a valid camshaft position sensor signal. Here is a link that outlines how to test the camshaft position sensor. You already have verified that the distributor rotor is turning.

    Part 1 -How To Test The Cam Sensor (1996-2000 3.0L V6 Chrysler) (at http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.0L/cam-sensor-test-1 )
     
  19. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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  20. 85lebaront2

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    The Mitsubishi distributor uses a pair of optical pickups, and if it is like my 1989 Grand Caravan, the distributor is on the front right very close to the front end. It may be bad. If you can borrow one or find a used one, you should be able to simply plug it in without actually installing it, rotate the shaft with the key on and see if everything comes to life (fuel pump and spark) I would take the coil wire out of the cap and locate it close to a good ground where you can see if you get spark.
     
  21. gtrdave

    gtrdave Jesus lovin', guitar playin', Dodge drivin' dude..

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    Thanks for the advice, folks. I hope to get some time this Saturday and check everything mentioned. I'm certain it's got to be a fairly easy issue to rectify.

    To be clear, I have removed the coil wire from the cap and I'm getting no spark there.
     

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