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1994 LHS inner tie rod bushing replacement

Discussion in 'LH: Large Cars, 1993-2004' started by JerCrest01, Apr 7, 2017.

  1. JerCrest01

    JerCrest01 New Member

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    Hello,

    I am looking for the quickest way to replace the inner tie rod bushings on my 1994 LHS.

    any help please.
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Removing the wiper 'bucket' assembly will give easier access to the rear of the engine. It is still very tight in this area. Follow the service manual procedures.
     
  3. Bearhawke

    Bearhawke Things happen for a reason

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    As IC stated. Been there, done that on several LH cars.
     
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  4. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    IDK about first-gen cars but on the 300M and 2nd gens, it helps a LOT to turn the wheel all the way to the right. It's much easier to get at.
    Only remove ONE BOLT AT A TIME from the rack! Leave the other in. There's a sliding block inside the rack that's very hard to get back in position if you mess up!
    It helps to have at least one front wheel off the ground, if not both, especially if your old bushings are worn because re-aligning with new tight bushings will mean you need to move the wheel a bit to get it back in.

    Done the job twice. Both with 2 piece replacements (2 diff 300Ms). It's straightforward. Allpar has a writeup on it if you want more detail.
     
  5. MoPar~Man

    MoPar~Man Member

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    I replaced my inner's last year. I posted it here on allpar somewhere. I thought they were responsible for a clunking on the driver's side but they weren't. The originals turned out to be in great shape ('00 300m with 135k miles). I bought them from Rock Auto (ridiculously low price). New inner rods with new bushings pre-installed. Also got new tie-rod ends and adjuster sleeves. Took the old ones out, assembled the new ones and lined them up with the old ones and adjusted to match the length of the old ones. I remember reading about turning the wheels to the right but if I recall it didn't make that much difference. I did take I think a 15 mm socket (or what-ever size the inner bolts are) and grind it down to make it shallow to give me more room for the ratchet. I bought several different inner bushing kits (with plate and bolts) because again ridiculously cheap but I think I re-used the original bolts. I think I still had to adjust the rod length (put a straight-edge against the tires to see how they lined up). Still driving with them like that - never brought it into a shop for a alignment. On a straight-flat stretch of highway I can let go the wheel and car drives straight as an arrow. I did take both bolts out and don't recall having a problem putting the new rods on. I think I had the front on stands with both wheels off.
     

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