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2.7 Engine clatter

Discussion in 'LH: Large Cars, 1993-2004' started by movinyou, Sep 11, 2016.

  1. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    What I do know is that after the 1st water pump was installed it was as quiet as a new engine. After p.o.s. new pump was replaced again, is when the clattering started. The idiot light is going out so, I can only assume (we all know about that) that it is at normal pressure. And, if I look in the oil fill hole I can see some fresh oil in that neighborhood. All I am sure I can hear is lifters. Any further thoughts. And, checking the chain tensioner will involve pulling at least the right side valve cover correct? If it isn't full of oil, suspicion would fall to the oil pump pick up correct? I just want to get this thing done and over with. Give me a 3.5 any time!
     
  2. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Pulled the plenum and r/side valve cover off, disabled all the coils and cranked it over to make sure there was oil getting to the lifters and there was. Also, the tensioner was tight against the chain guide which of course was tight against the chain. Changed oil and filter again. Slowly getting quieter. I still wish this thing had a 3.5! Any words of encouragement would be appreciated. And everybody, thank you for all your help.
     
  3. GLHS60

    GLHS60 Well-Known Member

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    There is an oil passage core plug with a vent or bleeder hole in each cylinder head. mopar # 4792108.

    Normally when cranking the Engine over with the valve cover off oil squirts out of the hole.

    It squirts a jet of oil about 5 ft. , curious if you noticed this??

    Thanks
    Randy
     
  4. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Yep. My son said their was a pretty good stream coming out when I cranked it. Gonna try and drive it this weekend and see if I can't cook some of the moisture out of it.
     
  5. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    Got a weird one for you all. Seems I'm getting oil to the block but, very little to the heads. is their any way to flush the oil passages w/o pulling the head or am I stuck?
     
  6. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    ok folks, took it out for a test drive yesterday, got about 6 miles and it quit. Upon initial tear down today I found the timing chain in place but, the bolts on the drivers side cam shaft sprocket sheared off. What could have caused that and, is that head toast? Is there anyway to tell if it is damaged with out tearing it down? I can tell you that the dimples on the cams are about 180 degrees apart with the right rotating toward TDC and the left about 60 degrees past it. Prayers and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
     
  7. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
    Level III Supporter

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    Did the cam(s) sieze in the journals? It sounds like something froze up and jumped time?
    I wouldn't rotate the engine, but remove the driver's side intake and exhaust rockers. This should relieve valve spring tension and fully close the valves. If some valve springs are still compressed (measure height with a small ruler) then those valves may be bent.
    Then apply moderate air pressure to each cylinder through the left-side bank spark plug holes to see if pressure is held.
    If air comes out the throttle body, the intake valves are bent for that cylinder. If air comes out the tailpipe, then the exhaust valves are bent for that cylinder.
     
  8. movinyou

    movinyou Active Member

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    That's the weird part of this. Granted I waited a day before I went into the top end, but, the cams would rotate. I will pull the rockers and see where it leads. Thanks for the info. I was hoping you would answer.
     
  9. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    Something def locked up. If your timing was off and you didn't check (I think @ImperialCrown suggested doing that), then higher-than-idle RPMs may have caused valve/piston interference, which would have locked the cam while the engine was moving, causing your shearing. If you got no oil to the heads, as you stated in post #25, that would have caused the cam to seize as well, with the same result. The 2.7, like the 3.5 HO, is an interference design, so it's time to look for a new engine. Even if by some miracle the valves & pistons didn't kiss, with the unknown state of your mains due to previous water-in-oil contamination, and the other issues this engine has had, I wouldn't waste any more time on teardown or diagnosis, personally. Good condition 2.7s are plentiful in junkyards from wrecked LHes. You can also consider a 3.2 or 3.5 swap if you want.
     

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