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2000 Intrepid A/C compressor

Discussion in 'LH: Large Cars, 1993-2004' started by geraldg, Apr 27, 2017.

  1. geraldg

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    Checking around most replacements say you might have to use OEM wiring harness. Is there any that you don't have to rewire ?
     
  2. ImperialCrown

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    By OEM wire harness, do they mean the harness connectors that are already there?
     
  3. geraldg

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    From what I have read I think so. They really don't say.
     
  4. geraldg

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    Also they say may required splicing factory connector.
     
  5. ImperialCrown

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    Then you have to see what connector the car has and what connector comes with the compressor.
    It sounds more like a 'fitzall' compressor than an OEM if you might have to modify it. Is it returnable if you modify the wiring?
     
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  6. geraldg

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    Trouble with OEM is they think they are made of gold, and twice the price.
     
  7. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    It looks like there may be two styles, one with two pins and one with one pin. The Denso listed on RockAuto, for $168.79, looks to be the right one for my 300M. If you buy one from a McParts store, make sure it has the manifold attached like the one on RockAuto, I see some without it; you'd then need to buy a new manifold gasket and R/R the manifold from the old one to the new one (and I've broken one of those allen-head bolts trying to remove the manifold, it was corroded into the body of the compressor). I just pulled one from the junkyard from a low-mile M, for mine, when I had to do it 7-ish years ago, and it still works fine & I haven't touched the system at all since I did the evap in 2013 (not a single recharge or anything needed).
     
  8. Bob Lincoln

    Bob Lincoln "CHECK FAULT CODES"
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    Having repaired and converted at least 5 A/C systems that were originally R12, I can strongly recommend that anyone buy the OEM brand condenser, NEW, NOT Rebuilt. I have had rebuilt compressors leak, rattle, and as Tomguy says, come without the manifold attached. I have gotten them only partially assembled (screws holding the body together not even seated, screw heads sticking out over an inch), gotten them painted 1/4" thick with gunky black paint, with defective clutches, etc. It's a waste of money IMO not to buy a new one of the OEM brand.
     
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  9. geraldg

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    A update had a guy come over to check out the a/c everything was fine but it was getting no power to the compressor. He put a scan tool on it and it came up with 9 codes, so he cleared them ( no check engine light )After he cleared them the car would not start and when it did start after cranking it ran like crap. His opinion was the PCM was going bad. So right now it is at the dealer to figure out what is wrong. Told the dealer what happened and they said they never heard of anything like that happening. Any ideas ???
     
  10. ImperialCrown

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    What codes? The PCM usually reports what it sees (or saw) and isn't the root cause of a problem.
    If connectors were unplugged during diagnosis while the ign was on, this can set multiple fault codes.
     
  11. geraldg

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    Didn't disconnect any connectors, after checking a/c all we did was clear codes and then engine would run like crap.
     
  12. geraldg

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    It has been at the dealer for 3 days and they are trying to figure what the heck is going on.
     
  13. Tomguy

    Tomguy Well-Known Member

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    Same, this is why I got a good used one @ a junkyard. Pulling one myself was within my budget, rolling the dice on a terrible reman one was not, nor was a new OEM one.

    As for the codes, first off, the only reason clearing them would require a new PCM is if some cheap scanner actually fried the system trying to clear the codes.
    Does your Intepid have ATC or manual controls? There is an ATC diagnosis / reset procedure if it has ATC.
     

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