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2004 Pacifica 3.5L Crank No start

Discussion in 'Minivans · Pacifica' started by JimmyJoe, Sep 2, 2016.

  1. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Hi everyone. I am a long time lurker and posted a long time ago but not for years.

    My wife parked the Pacifica the other day and that was it. She was having stalling problems but finally parked it and now it cranks but no start anymore.

    Things I've done.

    1)Reseated all of the relays in the fuse box under the hood. All dash lights and radio works (except for HVAC lights - they need a good whack to get working again)

    2)Fully charged the battery - but did find out while trying to crank the motor we have the grounding issue other Pacifica's have. I need to wire a new ground to neg battery terminal. In the meantime, a jumper cable works fine for troubleshooting no start condition.

    3) Fuel pump hums and primes. I can hear it (was going to replace it first before I realized it turned on). Sprayed ether into engine and car didn't even try to start (wanted to be sure problem wasn't fuel pump)

    4)Found an unrelated issue mechanically - perhaps it's related? I don't know. Coolant was low - reservoir empty. And I did see coolant on the "rear" (drivers side) of the engine. Manifold leak? Don't know. Checked the oil and it was fine so I assume it's not a cylinder head gasket.

    5)Have not checked plugs yet for spark. Or....gulp...timing belt....

    6)No codes but they cleared of course (DOH!) when I took out battery to charge.

    Does anyone have any tips or suggestions where to begin next?

    Thank you!!!

    Jimmy
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Welcome to Allpar. If it doesn't try to fire up with ether into the throttle body, then that leaves the possibility of 'no spark' or 'mechanical' for the reason.
    The 3.5L does have a 102K mile timing belt replacement interval and it is an interference engine which makes this service an important consideration. I would also do the water pump replacement during this service.
    I would check spark plugs and check for spark next.
    Does the compression sound different when cranking than it did before?
    Do you have access to an OBDII scan tool to watch the sensors (cam/crank signal) while cranking or view any pending fault codes?
    If you are aware of wiring/ground issues, those also need attending to.
     
  3. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Thanks for the welcome and reply ImperialCrown!

    Yes, compression sounds the same so I am guessing the timing belt is still ok. But it's the original, and has 79000 miles on it. That needs to be replaced just based on age (we bought it new in August of 2003)

    OBDII scans repeatedly show nothing. No codes or pending codes. Haven't tried to read it tho while I was cranking.
    Saw a video on YouTube that has me going in the electrical direction - not related to the non start but I found it when searching for fixing the grounding issue I'm fixing () . I swapped the Auto Shutdown Relay with anther relay ( Relay layout here - http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/BOBCAT5544/2010-12-25_213059_2005_chry_pic_asd_relay.jpg ).
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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  5. Oklahoma Wolf

    Oklahoma Wolf What sanity?

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    Near the main 4 gauge battery ground where it bolts to the transmission on the lower front, the main wiring harness runs over a large metal bracket - check that the harness hasn't rubbed through on the underside there. If the front motor mount goes bad, I could easily see there being enough movement in that harness to do some damage.

    Also, if yours is like mine, there's another harness that runs up below the dog bone strut in that same area to check as well. Mine was pretty well rubbed through but with no wiring damage yet.
     
  6. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    ImperialCrown - thank you for the link. Those files are exactly what I needed. Can't say thanks enough!
     
  7. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Thank you Oklahoma Wolf. Funny I do remember talking to myself about the wiring harness when I changed the "right?" (front? I get turned around with transverse mounted motors - I'm slow I guess) - I was concerned about breaking something as I jacked the moter up with the engine lift and things got taught. Nothing crazy but I wanted to be sure I didn't make things worse - fix one problem, create more.
     
  8. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    So I haven't looked yet at the problem too deep since there's no rush (wife got a new car that we were looking at before the Pacifica went Kaput)

    I think I may have found the source of the bad ground. What do you think? This may not still fix the no start but I bet that issue is also in the same general area.

    2004 Pacifica - Ground Wire Corroded and disconnected
     
  9. Oklahoma Wolf

    Oklahoma Wolf What sanity?

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    That's your main 4 gauge battery ground, and I'll wager it's a big part of your problem. Mine wasn't that bad, but it was bad enough. I just left it there disconnected and ran a new 1 gauge ground to bypass it. There are no splices off that wire, so no need to worry about that.

    The 8 and 10 gauge ground wires do need to be left intact though. The 10 gauge is the ground to the PCM, while the 8 gauge is the body ground and has a few splices coming off it.
     
  10. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Thanks OW - After a few weeks hiatus I FINALLY got around to installing a 2 gauge cable going to a bolt right by where the dipstick attaches to the motor. I don't like where I put it so will probably reattach it to the original location by the left front wheel.

    Wired up everything and now I am back to the ORIGINAL problem. Cranks great. Sounds like it;s almost going to catch too. Saw the CEL flash and I thought "perfect! Codes!" But I misplaced my code reader and called it a night.

    Going to play with it again today. Will update if anything changes and if/when I make progress.
     
  11. Oklahoma Wolf

    Oklahoma Wolf What sanity?

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    Is the security light staying on by any chance? If the SKREEM module isn't detecting a valid key, it's not going to let the car start. I have seen sentry key modules go down due to bad solder joints in the vans of this era.

    Although, in this case, if there's something going on with the SKREEM module's ability to receive signals it shouldn't pick up the tire pressure sensors or remote keyless entry, either.
     
  12. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Finally got a code!!!

    While trying to crank and generate a code, I also tried bypassing the ASU relay. That didn't help..but I did get a code.

    P0685 was the code I finally saw on my scanner. 2 times? 2 codes same thing.

    Now....not sure if I got the code because I removed it to bypass the relay or what. Of course P0685 is the ASD

    Checked the ASD fuse and fuel pump fuse (right next to it) just for the hell of it and they're good.

    So....now have to prove I'm getting a spark and gas. My gut says no spark because I can hear the fuel pump prime.

    Could anyone help me with the following? Is there a Schrader valve doohickey anywhere I can test for fuel pressure? And easiest way to check for spark? Have never touched the spark plugs since we purcahced the car in 2003!

    Thank you!
     
  13. ImperialCrown

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    At 80K miles, the platinum plugs should still be OK. They may however tell us a story if they are wet or dry of fuel or carbon fouled.
    Wet or fouled plug tips can cause a 'no start'.
    If the ign key was in the run position while you were removing or jumping the ASD relay, that could cause your P0685.
    If you could erase and see if the fault code came back without disturbing the relay, that would be something to look into.
    Before erasing, see if your fault code tool can read the Freeze-Frame or Snapshot data to see what else the PCM was seeing when the fault code was set. It may provide important diagnostic clues.
    You might swap a similar nearby relay with the ASD relay. Choose a non-critical relay to do this with.
    P0685 is covered on p. 249 here:
    http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/..._CS_Pacifica/18635-cs-powertrain_sgmldiag.pdf
    Rule out the 'Possible Causes' one-by-one as best you can. Connector pinouts and wire colors are shown towards the end of the manual.
    Just because you can hear the fuel pump prime, doesn't mean that the injectors are opening and spraying fuel.
    If you do have a fuel pressure test port, it would be along the fuel rails or rail interconnecting tube.
     
    Ray Green likes this.
  14. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Folks sorry for the terribly late reply (Don't like doing that but life gets in the way sometimes...)

    Good news though...SHE LIVES. After taking my sweet time trying to get it started, checking wires and finding no problems I gave up. Let another set of eyes take a look at it. They went over my work (which I expected) and were unable to find the issue either until it became obvious that the issue was the computer. No broken wires. Not the BCM. Not the ignition or keys. No info either via OBD II codes. Nothing. It was old fashioned deduction and only logical explanation was computer.

    Computer replaced and reprogrammed (used one) and she runs great. It's been a while, but wanted to say thank to those that offered help and guidance.
     
    chuzz, somber and ImperialCrown like this.
  15. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

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    Better late than never, jimmyjoe. Thanks for letting everyone know the cure. What are your plans for it since your wife bought a new car last year?
     
  16. JimmyJoe

    JimmyJoe Member

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    Chuzz - Just plant to keep driving it. It's paid for so that works for me...whether i's a few months from now or years...I don't know.
     
  17. Oklahoma Wolf

    Oklahoma Wolf What sanity?

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    I'm starting to think the ground issues that develop on these cars sometimes fries their PCMs. Since the last post in '16, I did the same thing to mine to finally get my cruise control, trans range sensor, and autostick working again.
     

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