AF: 2005 PTC Classic 2.4i automatic - Tailgate/ rear hatch unlock issue. | Allpar Forums
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2005 PTC Classic 2.4i automatic - Tailgate/ rear hatch unlock issue.

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by HOTPIG175, Sep 17, 2020.

  1. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Hi all,

    Today, I have discovered that the remote unlock system is, again, not unlock the rear hatch.

    All four door unlock with a double-click, but I'm back to having to use the key to put stuff in the back. Irritating, but not the end of the world.

    However, this happened before, back in May this year, and just after it started to do this, the car became almost undriveable, even if I could get it to start. The lock bizzo was an intermittent fault, and more tiresome at the time than actually troubling.

    My main man in town was all over it with his $5000 OBD tester, and diagnosed a faulty cam-angle sensor.

    I got the wagon back the same day, and it was running really nicely, AND, the central locking was working on all 5 doors again.

    I'm sincerely hoping that this lock business isn't a precursor to another impending engine control system fault, and am am optimistic that maybe I need to start looking elsewhere, as there is no "Check Engine" light on, and the immobiliser light is behaving normally.

    Any suggestions regarding what I can check out at home?

    E.g.: a fuse for the rear door lock? Although, I find that unlikely, as when I unlock the back door using a key, all the other doors unlock...

    Any and all suggestions would be gratefully received.

    Thanks, Andy
     
  2. Best Answer:
    Post #13 by AllanC, Oct 13, 2020
  3. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    PS - just re-read my post.

    Apologies for all the typos.

    I NEED SLEEP!

    Thanks, people,

    Andy
     
  4. 06PTElectricBlue

    06PTElectricBlue Active Member

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    Looking at the Parts Catalog for your PT, it says that the rear hatch handle assembly includes the touchpad switch.

    So when you press the remote to unlock the doors, that also unlocks the rear hatch, but then when you put your hand under the hatch handle assembly to lift up on the hatch, you should feel a small "bump" and that's the touchpad switch that trips the hatch actuator to open the hatch.

    That membrane touchpad switch can and does fail, it failed on my PT several years ago.

    You can replace the entire outside handle assembly, but they can be difficult to remove as they're held on very well with body tape, and the entire assembly is over $200.

    When mine failed, I got a $5 water proof momentary contact switch and and it works perfectly fine. :)

    Chrysler should have used a replaceable switch instead of that troublesome membrane touchpad, because it will eventually fail. ;)

    The red arrow in this pic is pointing at the membrane touchpad switch, and it's slightly lifting off the surface of the handle assembly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #3 06PTElectricBlue, Sep 17, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2020
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  5. djsamuel

    Level 2 Supporter

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  6. 421 SD Poncho

    421 SD Poncho Active Member

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    I don't think his 2005 has a touch pad, just the key switch on the hatch lid and then pull up on handle, unless he has already used the key fob.;)

    I could be wrong.o_O

    Jerry
     
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  7. djsamuel

    Level 2 Supporter

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    I'm not sure about the touch pad but I know he has the key switch on the back hatch. My wife's 07 PT has the key switch while my daughter's 08 PT did not have it. Made a big difference when they both went bad! :)
     
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  8. 06PTElectricBlue

    06PTElectricBlue Active Member

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    This is from the '05 Parts Catalog, and it says: "Includes Touch Pad Switch"

    [​IMG]


    Yeah, eliminating the key cylinder on the rear hatch on the later PT's was a bright move by some bean counter at Chrysler. :eek::rolleyes:o_O

    So when the touchpad switch fails, and it will fail, you can't even open the hatch. At least with the key cylinder, if the touchpad switch does fail, you can still open the hatch with the key.
     
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  9. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Oh wow!

    Sorry for the delayed response.

    That is an idea that I can both deal and live with.

    Just concerns me that when I lock the car by remote, and leave it overnight, invariably I get the tailgate not shut idiot light on every morning, and the associated audible warnings. Bong, bong bong - you know that tune, I'm sure.

    Switch the car off, tailgate is loose but won't open without keys. Open it that way, shut it, use it all day, and then same #2&! thing next morning.

    I did out a polythene sheet down to protect the carpet, and at looks at though it might have been caught by the latch mechanism - anyone think that this would be playing silly-buggers with the mechanism? Can't see any shredded plastic in the lower latch assembly, but then, I'm old, blind, deaf and crotchety.

    Thanks 06PTElectricBlue
     
  10. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Excellent again.

    car going into panelshop, after a delay of months because of C19.

    They'll have to disconnect and reset everything, so when I get it back, I'll spend some time on this - it's simply annoying, and as I may have mentioned in an earlier, it was a precursor to the cam-angle sensor failing the last time this started happening..

    The old bus is running mighty fine. FINE, as in $80 Infringement Notice from a speed camera at 5;25am on the way to my mate's funeral.

    Empty major road, limited to 80km/h, and apparently I wa doing 93.

    Bum.

    djsamuel, thanks so much.

    I truly appreciate your response.

    Thanks, Andy
     
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  11. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Yup, generally, (well it used to), just open with a double click on the fob.

    I've recently noticed some reluctance when operating the fob from a distance - I used to be able to zap the car before I saw it, and it would be all unlocked by the time I got there.

    I bought a humungous amount of batteries yesterday, but, of course, not 1 CR2016.

    Typical.

    Could a low voltage in the remote be the POSSIBLE cause?

    Thanks people,

    Cheers, Andy
     
  12. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    06PTElectricBlue, I owe you again!

    Yes, Caveman Andy still retains these primitive key skills, socially unacceptable as they are.

    Am I a LOSER!!!???

    Would like to fix it, as recent life events mean I'll probably have to put the PT on the market - I SO don't want to let it go, but , as they say, money to tight to mention.

    Issues with landlord have come to explosion point, so I've ended up having to borrow money, and trying to get an early release on my pension on medical grounds.

    Plan is to but a fully self-contained Nissan motorhome, with only 10,000km more than the Chrysler on the clock.

    Can't see, short of a dolly or a trailer, how I'd be able to tow the PTC, given that it's an auto trans.

    Like, I'm not hysterical about the tailgate issue, but it's a nice car, and I'd like the next owner to feel the same way.

    Thanks again, my friend.
     
  13. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Ok.

    Long story short.

    Nissan motorhome deal started to get a bit suspect, (well, the dealer, really - "No, you can't test drive it again, because there's no diesel in it". Highly professional. On yer bike, son.

    Just bought an '03 Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 HO, for a pretty good price, as there is a ding in the tailgate. Now I have a great tow vehicle, and it's pretty honest.

    Runs beautifully. Does the same to gas - eats heaps, but nice table manners.

    Issues with unlocking took replacing remote batteries twice, (?), but all good now.

    The '05 Cruiser Classic 2.4i auto is still doing the half unlock tailgate thing with the remote - open the car with the remote, start it, then idiot-light comes on saying tailgate not shut. I switch off, go and check, and it's loose but I cant open it without putting the key in, and then shutting it again.

    Would it be worth it worth stripping out the tailgate and doing a lube on the control rods, or whatever?

    There's no moving part on the exterior handle, nor does their appear to be any sort of pressure switch/sensor - not a major, but annoying...


    Thanks for your comprehensive advice on all my issues.

    Andy
     
    #12 HOTPIG175, Oct 13, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2020
  14. AllanC

    AllanC Well-Known Member

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    All the lock motors in the 4 doors and the rear liftgate are wired together in parallel circuitry and are controlled by the remote keyless entry module in the vehicle. The keyless entry module receives the signal to unlock all doors and liftgate either from the remote key fob, interior lock/unlock switches or the rear liftgate key switch. Electrical power is applied to all lock motors and they are expected to unlock the associated mechanical mechanism.

    What is happening is that the liftgate latch is dragging due to age and dirt accumulation and grease that probably has solidified to some extent. Since 4 other lock motors are taking electrical current to operate, there is no EXTRA electrical current to get that liftgate motor to unlock properly. Now when you use the key to unlock at the rear hatch / liftgate, you are sending a unique voltage signal to the keyless entry module to unlock all doors. Since 4 doors are now unlocked their motors take very little electrical current to operate so there is slightly more electrical power in the circuit to provide an extra boost so the rear liftgate motor can complete its unlock operation.

    When you first use the remote key fob to unlock all doors with a double push of the unlock button, wait and pause and then push the unlock button twice again. I am thinking a second activation will unlock the rear liftgate.

    So you are on the proper solution to gain access to the rear liftgate latch mechanism and provide lubrication to all moving parts. This should fix this issue.
     
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  15. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Wow, Sir Allan C!

    That's a comprehensive and comprehensible explanation.

    Thank you.

    Yeah, I suspect age and moisture are fooling with the mechanism, but here's a weird question, (again): My '03 Grand Cherokee unlocks all doors with one click -except when it does nothing at all- and the fob is identical in appearance.Occasionally, it won't go, and then I use the key to open it, and all hell breaks loose and wakes everyone within a 2 mile radius when the alarm goes off.

    Shuts up once the engine is started - I'm just curious why one fob one one vehicle opens the doors with a single push, yet the other one needs 2 pushes??? Maybe updated security system, but PTC doesn't do the alarm thing when I open it with the key. Go figure.

    Just did another 700km plus round trip to Auckland today, with no issues in the JGC, until it developed some sort of death wobble that wouldn't allow me to drive at over 70km/h, (40 mph).

    Nothing vibrating on the trip south, but heading home, I had to pull off the side of the expressway, and I thought I was about to lose the front driveshaft, or at least a wheel. Seriously brutal shaking.

    Nothing obviously wrong, except r/h front wheel much hotter to touch. I thought maybe jammed brake caliper, stuffed wheel-bearing or some hideous CV/Cardan joint thing - on the one time I only had a 3/8" drive socket set in the car.

    Given the weekend traffic, and no exit ramps for a hell of a distance, I nursed it until I could get onto a back road, and kept it under 50km/h.

    Eventually had no choice but to speed up because even on the back roads, I was holding everyone up.

    80, 90, !00 - eventually 120km/h.

    What the hell?

    It's sweet-as again, so I think I need an align and balance, and go from there.

    Any constructive comments would be greatly appreciated, on either of these issues.

    Cheers, and have a terrific and safe weekend.

    Andy
     
  16. 06PTElectricBlue

    06PTElectricBlue Active Member

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    From the Owner's Manual:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    On my PT, I have it set to unlock only the driver's door on 1 press of the remote button, no need to put unnecessary wear and tear on all of the other lock cylinder actuators, if I don't need to unlock any of the other doors. ;)

    But if I do need to unlock any of the other doors, just press again and all doors are unlocked. :)

    Over the years, only 1 lock cylinder actuator has had to be replaced, and that was done while it was still under the factory warranty.
     
    #15 06PTElectricBlue, Oct 16, 2020 at 7:22 AM
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2020 at 7:38 AM
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  17. HOTPIG175

    HOTPIG175 Active Member

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    Oh cool.

    Thanks man.

    I might reset the Cherokee to do the same - if it will let me.

    Sitting down here on the bottom of the world awaiting election results, so won't attack it tonight, but, as always, your help and advice is very much appreciated.

    Cheers, Andy
     
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