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2007 Cruizer P0340 / P0522 Combination

Discussion in 'PT Cruiser' started by mjmpiano, Sep 29, 2017.

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  1. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    Howdy! New to me PT, 124k. Last night MIL came on, P0340, Limped home no problem. Replaced Cam position sensor today with Mopar part, now will not start and have a oil pressure code added. Suspect a brittle wiring issue, doubt the sensor just decided to quit sitting in the garage. WIring harness plastic coverings all brittle and crumbling. Cam is turning fine so timing belt is still there. Put old cam sensor back on and still no start.
    I only see one wire to the oil sensor, yellow, assume it goes to PCM? ANything common to these two circuits?

    Thanks troops
     
  2. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Welcome to Allpar. The wiring harness deterioration will have to be addressed first and may be your whole problem. Are you missing spark or fuel?
    Be aware that a defective Crankshaft Position sensor can trigger a Cam sensor code (See possible causes).
    Connector ends may be spliced into the good remaining parts of the harness.
    You may want a good (factory) service manual information and wiring diagrams for this. Diagnosis first. I use quality shrink-wrap splices for secure weather-tight connections:
    Mopar Connection Repair Kit (at http://connectors.dcctools.com/results.htm )

    P0340 Possible Causes:
    5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
    5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
    5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
    CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
    CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
    CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED GROUND
    CMP SIGNAL SHORTED TO (F855) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
    SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
    CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
    CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
    PCM

    P0522 Possible Causes:
    ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
    ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
    OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
    PCM
     
  3. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    THanks for the detailed response! I do NOT appear to have spark, looking up how to check for fuel pressure now but should skip that and diagnose the obvious first. Have good light and visibility and do not see any obvious harness wear / rubbing. Again, running ok last night, shut off, replaced cam sensor, now no spark and P0522.
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Remember that you can have good fuel pressure, but if the injectors aren't squirting, you will still have no fuel getting to the cylinders. A shot of (i.e.-) carb spray into the throttle body should get it to fire briefly if the injectors are staying closed, but only if you have spark. The cam and crank sensors need a 5 volt supply (from the PCM) and a good ground to work.
    The PCM relies on the crank sensor to trigger spark and to keep the ASD/Fuel pump circuits energized.
    The cam sensor basically synchronizes the fuel injector timing. It may start when missing either sensor signal, but it may require a long crank time in order to find the #1 cylinder position.
    This Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures book covers an older 2.0L/2.4L, but may help with troubleshooting. See p. 144 and p. 203:
    http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2004_PL_Neon/18623-pl-powertrain_sgmldiag.pdf
     
  5. CudaPete

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    you may have to replace the oil pressure switch. It is rumored that later PT's were interlocked not to start in the case a no oil pressure condition was detected. This is to prevent engine damage.
     
  6. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    Thank you again! Excellent document
     
  7. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    Howdy,

    FUse 23, 12 amp ASD relay feed 3 is blown and continues to blow. Headed in that direction now, wiring diagram search.
     
  8. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    15 amp
     
  9. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    The wire from fuse # 23 begins as a Br/Gy and turns into DG/Or after splice S102. This goes to power the ignition coil connector and has a noise-suppression capacitor on the line.
    I seem to remember that this wiring harness took a 90° bend around the valve cover and could rest on a metal bracket on or near the cover. After years of vibration, the plastic wiring insulation could wear through and contact ground. Then it begin blowing this fuse.
    Take a close look at the engine wiring harness as it goes around the engine. It should be tie-wrapped securely to its mounting points and not flopping or resting against any sharp edges or grounded brackets.
     
  10. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    Got it. There is a radio noise capacitor attached to the block kinda below the PCV valve, various sources said it is radio only, ignore it, run wire to ground without the cap etc. It was broken, not readily available, grounding that wire without the cap blows fuse 23, no 23 no ASD, no 12v to coil and injectors. I was able to epoxy and solder the cap back together and it reads ok, (.47 uf stamped, reads .51 uf) . Starts fine now.

    New issue if you are interested... idles a bit rough, exhaust smells bad, surging a ton under load. NO codes running it in garage, did not road test. Trying to attach video
     
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  11. ImperialCrown

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    Sounds rich? The spark plugs may be black? I would drive it until fully warmed up. The plugs may be carbon-fouled from the fuel-loading of the past couple of days?
     
  12. mjmpiano

    mjmpiano New Member

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    I drove it hard for 40 minutes trying to get a code to post, no difference. I don't know the history on this beast at all so I will treat it to plugs and wires, maybe a coil pack though it meters ok. As soon as it's running great the timing belt will go! :) Thank you so very much for all the help!!!! Now I can start the brakes, tie-rod ends and such
     
  13. ImperialCrown

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    I recommend the OEM Champion or NGK spark plugs. A premium store brand of plug wires should be OK.
    It may take awhile for a code to happen, if at all. You might see a 1 trip failure or pending code first.
     
  14. mr2tim

    mr2tim Member

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    I've had that Oil Pressure light on and off for the most part of a year now on my 105k 05. The oil pressure part appears to leaking and I suspect that may trigger the oil light on the dash. I'm going to wait till I do the Timing Belt this winter to replace the item which has been in the glove box for months. And, yes it could be heat affected wiring as well.
     
  15. dana44

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    Given you have had shorts, etc., electrically, the computer could be confused, so disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and allow the PCM to reset to factory settings. This may clear up the issues.
     

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