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2012 Avenger Passenger Side and No heat

Discussion in '1995-2017 FWD Sedans, Coupes' started by chuckt, Jan 3, 2018.

  1. chuckt

    chuckt Well-Known Member

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    My neighbor is trying to solve a problem with an Avenger of which heat comes out of the driver side ducting but the passenger side blows cold (ambient temp). He has checked and tried to burp the coolant of any air pockets and we have watched the vent door actuators opening and closing.
    Googling the problem, it seems that people point toward a clogged heater core but that makes no sense since it is nothing more than a heat exchanger, just like the radiator, with fins, tubing and one tube in and one tube out. If it was clogged, hot coolant would not course through the tubing leading to no heat to either drive or passenger side. And that heater core is not compartmentalized for driver and passenger sides.Therefore, I am inclined to think that there is a mixing door in the large, plastic case under the dash that is not operating.
    It is a common problem from what I see on the internet. As is the case, it is January in the Chicago burbs and even in the garage, life is tough. Wish I could somehow have that duct box in hand or a drawing cutaway of what is inside.
     
  2. Mastertech63

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    Clogged heater core. I did it twice in my 2012 Avenger R/T. No heat passenger side. First time it was covered under warranty. Second time I did it. What happens is that only half of the core gets plugged and doesn't allow hot air flow towards passenger side. It has to do with the layout inside the airbox not the core itself.
     
  3. chuckt

    chuckt Well-Known Member

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    Then, you are saying that even though the core is clogged that coolant can course through the driver's side portion. I would think that the core is one long tube that is in a zig-zag pattern with the inlet at one end and the outlet a the other. If this is so, then coolant could not course and the heater core would not get hot coolant and neither drive nor passenger side would get heat. So, you are saying that the core is like some type of parallel circuit (using electricity for analogy) and the coolant can course through 1/2 the core.
     
  4. Mastertech63

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    Yes, the core has two tanks with parallel tubes between them. Some of the tubes get clogged and reduces flow. Air flows across the entire surface but since a portion is no longer passing hot coolant through it the air does not get heated. I have had success with some partially clogged ones by power flushing the core. The hoses are easily accessible from under hood. Just disconnect them and force water through, alternating from side to side. If the restriction is not too solid it will work loose. This is easier than the 5 hours or so for pulling the instrument panel out! Heacat makes a great tool for power flushing. Works sort of like a sonic clear. The tool pulsates the water flow to vibrate the particles loose. It is a little pricey for a one time use.
     
  5. chuckt

    chuckt Well-Known Member

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    Wow and thanks for your info. That power flush must be pretty forceful since the water can course thru the driver's side and the passenger's side would only get a fraction of the pressure if the purge had the same pressure as the coolant's. I have read that the cause is sand from the block left over from when it was cast so no chemical purge (like CLR) is useful.
     
  6. chuckt

    chuckt Well-Known Member

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    I don't like to leave topics open. I talked with my neighbor and it was a plugged heater core. It took him about 6 hours of labor for the repair (install a new core) but both sides are now blowing hot air. When I see him again (he is pretty busy as an auto mechanic), we're going to cut the core to see its design. Upon removing the old core, he blew into it and felt no resistance so it must be designed like a parallel system.
     
    Doug D likes this.
  7. voiceofstl

    voiceofstl Well-Known Member

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    Did the last year Avenger/200 still have that same core?
     
  8. Don j

    Don j New Member

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    I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with 3.6L and single heater control. The problem for me is the heater core is mounted at about a 30 degree angle with the hoses on the bottom. This allows any air in the system to accumulate at the top, effectively reducing the usable size of the heater core and present symptoms similar to a plugged core. Keep in mind that any time the system is opened or leaking, the symptoms will return until as much of the air is removed from the system again. This is why it works when anything in the cooling system is replaced. It reoccurs quickly for some because not all the air was removed or it has a leak.
     
  9. Stan Niedzwiki

    Stan Niedzwiki New Member

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    I have a 2011 dodge avenger 3.6 same issue with heat on drivers side and very little on passenger side ,,heater core was replaced last year and just did a thermostat for winter seemed to have burped out the system ,,,,all the hoses are hot and appears to be flowing into overflow bottle correctly ,,,and I played with the actuators ,,,,when I disconnected the temp one on the drivers side of the box and pushed the blend door over manually I got heat ,,,,110 degrees on middle left vent and 90 on right middle vent but only 75 on far right vent and floor vent is cool when switched ,,,,,I reinstalled everything and seemed to be working ok,,,then went out on a trip and temp in left middle vent dropped to 85 degrees ,,,all right side vents were cold and left side vent was hot as heck ,,,cant understand it needing another heater core since one wads done within last year so im stumped unless its an air pocket in the core ?
     
  10. Stan Niedzwiki

    Stan Niedzwiki New Member

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    one additional all hoses leading to and from heater core including both tubes under the dash are hot
     
  11. Stan Niedzwiki

    Stan Niedzwiki New Member

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    Just an Update ,,,after bleeding out he cooling system extensively I now have heat across all the a/c vents but if I switch to heater or defroster the right side blows cold ,,,weird
     
  12. Don j

    Don j New Member

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    The problem is the heater core is mounted at about a 30 degree angle with the hoses on the bottom. This allows any air in the system to accumulate at the top, effectively reducing the usable size of the heater core, making it present like a plugged heat core and causing that water rushing noise some mention. It also explains why the problem returns very shortly after ANY service to the coolant system.

    The way I solved the problem was to thoroughly remove any air from the system, starting by jacking the drivers side as high as possible and removed the upper (as they come through the firewall) heater hose and inserted a funnel. Then I removed the air bleed screw on the thermostat housing. I refilled the coolant system through the heater hose/funnel. Once coolant began to flow from the air bleed without air I replaced that screw. I started the engine and continued to fill until coolant flowed from the heater pipe where I had removed the hose and then capped the pipe with my thumb. I continued to attempt to fill the heater hose, holding it as high as possible. When I could not fill any more, I reinstalled the hose as quickly as possible to allow as little air as possible from reentering the system. I filled the coolant reservoir, and continued to get the engine to normal operating temperature and ensured the reservoir was appropriately filled.

    KEEP IN MIND ANY TIME THE SYSTEM IS OPENED OR LEAKING, THE SYMPTOMS WILL RETURN UNTIL THE AIR IS REMOVED FROM THE SYSTEM ONCE AGAIN. I did this 4 months ago and still have heat.
     
  13. andybuzz2u

    andybuzz2u Active Member

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    To save space behind the dash the Avenger/Sebring models have split ducting supplying driver and passenger air off of the A/C evaporator and heater core in the housing. The heater core is a constant loop design, meaning no matter how much it is clogged up coolant will flow through it. Liquid likes to flow the path with the least resistance. I also don't care for any of the HOAT antifreeze formulas as the so-called 5 or 10-year life is misleading and looks good on paper but fails in the real world. I had the same issue with two different vehicles. I also prefer to remove the cap off the coolant tank and visually inspect the level versus trying to see it through the translucent plastic and I noticed particles that had separated from the HOAT laying in the rear chamber of the coolant tank. The 5-year HOAT formula Chrysler filled it with made it 2 3/4 years and began to break down. So I flushed the system out and put back some good old silicate free green antifreeze. Zero issues since. These small particles, as well as others, will start to clog the heater core. The heater core is in a horizontal position at a 30-degree slant with the inlet and outlet pipes off center towards the drivers' side, just like a radiator works, hot coolant comes into the top tank, spills down through coils into the bottom tank and returns to the engine. When these heater cores start to get plugged up, it is the furthest coil tubes, the side of the heater core delivering heat to the passenger, until finally it becomes so plugged up coolant heats up only one, two or three coils. If they are plugged up that bad then it is time to replace the heater core. 37dd2387-699c-4829-b8ae-2ed200da1ea8.jpg .
     
  14. andybuzz2u

    andybuzz2u Active Member

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    That sounds like either the blend door actuator is failing or the blend door is not properly closing. With the floor vent selected no air should be blowing from either the defroster or face vents. When defrost is selected air should only be blowing from the defroster dash vents and the two small vents on each side of the dash that direct air across the front door glass.
     

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