Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by The Batman, Jun 27, 2020.
You said that there was wetness on the outside of the transaxle, like a leak? Fix any leaks.
No, I didn’t see any leaks. The oil pan is starting to rise out, so that’s going to need to be changed the next time I change the oil.
If fluid in any automotive system ( power steering, braking, air conditioning, transmission, cooling, etc) becomes low then there is a leak somewhere in the system. Over a long period of time a small drip adds up to substantial volume lost.
Your post #43 dated July 15, 2020 shows 2 transmission cooler lines wet with fluid. So this is the first place to look for a leak. Another place for leaks on a front wheel drive transaxle is the opening on each side where the splined axle shaft inserts.
So I was still losing fluid and I looked and saw that there was a cluster of two hoses and a wiring harness that were wet with fluid. It looks like the hose on the right side has a leak from where the rubber enters the pressure fitting. I'm used a tube of Water Weld to hopefully seal those so that I don't have to change the hoses. I'm going to let it sit and see if it leaks.
The leak you describe is caused by a crimped fitting that leaks only under pressure. You will need to thoroughly clean all residual oil from the area and then drive the vehicle. Sometimes a crimped hose fitting will only leak under heat and pressure.
So what's the remedy for this? Replacing the whole hose?
You could replace the hose but this is an easier solution that may work. I believe in some previous posts on this ongoing thread that it was determined that this is NOT the CVT transmission. It is the Hyundai designed 6F24 transmission that Jeep used in various vehicles with the 2.4 liter 4 cylinder engine.
Clean the area around the leaky hose. Open a worm drive hose clamp and secure it around the end of the hose where the crimped fitting exists. That may add additional pressure and stop the leak. See attached image.
The JB Weld seems to be working so far. I drove it to work this morning and I'm going to let it sit on a level surface and see what happens.
I think I have everything JB Welded to a no-leak condition, but to be sure I'd have to look at the hoses while the car is running. However, the battery is directly in the way of where I need to look. Is there a way I can have the car running while the battery is out of the way? Can I use jumper cables or some kind of extension to have the car run while the battery is up out of the way?
One could remove the battery and have it sit on a surface near the car. Connect jumper cables from positive and negative battery posts to the corresponding cable ends and start and run the engine. Danger with that approach is shorting the positive cable to a metal surface or a cable becomes disconnected. Then the alternator would probably go to full field strength, system voltage could rise to 18 - 20 volts and that would damage all sensitive vehicle electronic modules. So don't take that approach.
Thoroughly clean the suspect area with hot, soapy water such that touching a paper towel to the area results in no stain to the paper towel. Wrap and secure a paper towel to the hose area with with a cable tie. Reinstall the battery and drive the vehicle for a few days. Remove the battery and check the paper towel. No red stain and you have the leak fixed. Some stained area and you still have a small leak.
Copy all, thank you.
Is there a part number for those two hoses that come off of the transmission?
When I need a Mopar part number I use an online search and look for vendors for discount Mopar parts. That will give you a list and you drill down and find the part with the schematic diagram. This is a result I found for the transmission cooler lines.
Transmission Oil Cooler, and Lines for 2014 Jeep Compass | MOPAR Discounted Parts (at https://www.mopardiscountedparts.com/v-2014-jeep-compass--latitude--2-4l-l4-gas/cooling--transmission-oil-cooler-and-lines )
When you scroll down the list it appears that the 2 flexible hose lines are N/A; part # 68193560AD. So I am thinking a dealership parts department cannot get this hose assembly. But there are other vendors such as RockAuto that carry it.
You do NOT want item #1. That is the 2 metal lines that connect to the flexible hoses and carry fluid flow through the thermostatic valve and onto the cooler heat exchanger.
The Mopar hoses have crimped fittings at one end so that makes the hoses very expensive.
I was driving today and the check engine light came on. Looks like 4th gear slipped but the light is still on. Is there a certain number of fault-free miles I would have to drive or can I disconnect the battery for half an hour to get the light to go away?
The check engine light extinguishes after completing drive cycles without the fault reoccurring. it's not numbers of starts or miles driven. You can Google drive cycles for an idea of what is involved.
You can also get rid of the light by disconnecting the battery. However, the computer will report "not ready" for some time (until the completion of drive cycles) which only really matters if you have an emission inspection coming ip.
For how long should I disconnect the battery? And is it both sides, or just the negative?
How do you know that the 4th gear is slipping? Did you retrieve a specific fault code indicating 4th gear incorrect ratio?
On July 19, 2020 post #49 you indicate code P0729 appeared. This was 6th gear incorrect ratio. Did this code appear again or is there a new, unique diagnostic code?
In the time frame of 2005 - 2007 Chrysler changed the storage protocol for powertrain diagnostic codes. Disconnecting the battery / interrupting 12 volt power to the appropriate module will NOT erase any stored diagnostic codes. The only way to clear / erase diagnostic codes is to use that feature on a scan tool or drive the vehicle through sufficient drive cycles such that the offending condition does not repeat and the codes will self clear.
Did you follow the procedure outlined in post #57 dated July 17, 2020 for establishing the correct fluid level? Incorrect fluid level (too high, too low) can cause clutches to slip and generate incorrect gear ratio codes. It is very important to determine fluid temperature and then use a chart to set the proper fluid level at that temperature in the transmission.
Affirmative. I pulled the codes with an OBD-II and it confirmed 4th gear incorrect ratio. I found a spot on the cooler hose I missed with the JB Weld so I'm patching that now. Does anyone know what size the connectors on the hoses are by any chance? If I can replace them with generic hoses I'd rather do that than wait for the OEM ones to come in.
Hydraulic pressure hose is noted by its inside diameter. So you could measure the OD / outside diameter of the existing hose and take that measurement to an auto parts retailer and match against the bulk supply of hose and get the closest match. I would guess that generic hose is in the range of 8 mm, 9mm, or 10 mm inside diameter.
Make sure you get high pressure hose for the transmission lines. If someone accidentally sells you normal fuel hose, it will split shortly down the road. Don't ask me how I know.