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2015 Chrysler 300 S 36,000 miles ABS Traction Control AWD

Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by jerseyjoe, Aug 15, 2019.

  1. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    6000 miles after replacing right front ABS sensor our AWD, ABS, traction control goes into hard fail while driving straight on the GSP. Gimme FWD again Sam. Bought the code tool mentioned in the previous saga to find that 2013 was its end of usefulness. Best part of the story is got my money back for the tool. Not gonna happen with the 300. Anyhow its like an old dog, can't do what I ask of it but still loved for now. So need a bargain tool that will read All the codes. Can I reset stuff buy pulling a fuse? Maybe that will give me a location.

    Ideas?
     
  2. Best Answer:
    Post #8 by jerseyjoe, Sep 14, 2019
  3. sickboy

    sickboy Well-Known Member

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    Have you pulled all the sensors and cleaned the ends? They are magnetic so if a flake of rust gets on it, it won’t read correctly. Here’s hoping
     
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  4. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    In a case like this where buying a needed tool won't pay for itself and just sit in a box after this repair, it might be worth considering an approx. $100 diagnostic fee (usually the minimum charge) at a trusted FCA dealer service department?
    When they call you with the diagnosis and estimate, you can then decide if you want to DIY or if it is a complex operation, let them handle it. Ask them the best way to go about the repair ("What would you do if this were your car?"). Hopefully this is something simple. You are basically just looking for an answer to the warning lights. Have them write the fault codes on the repair order.
    I like to do my own work whenever possible and have saved myself, friends and family thousands of dollars in parts and labor. Some things, like glass, professional paint, module software updates, wheel alignments and tire mounting/balancing I still have to rely on a well-equipped and competent shop for.
    I'm glad that you got your money back on the obsolete tool. Ask if they have (10%?) discounts for military service, senior citizens, etc. Some savvy service advisors keep a stash of service special and discount coupons under the desk to help make a sale if the shop needs work.
    Their tool can read all 4 wheel speeds in mph on a road test, if this is still a wheel sensor/wiring issue. If a wheel is sending a false, but still believable speed value to the computer, it may not set a code and may actuate a corrective stability control/braking action? I still don't think this is a wheel speed sensor issue though.
     
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  5. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    I thinking about that, nearest dealer charges $120 diag. 240 to install the cable. Vehicle is flakey enough to warrent a tool, just have to find one that works with the 2015 S. Tool should pay for itself.

    When I find one that works will post it here.

    Thanks again.
     
  6. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    Purchased a Foxwell NT510 Scanner billed as 2015 and 2016 Chrysler products. Looked at it on youtube provides information from just about every computer in the vehicle. Best bang for $159, 60 trial. I'll give my review.
     
  7. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    Was on vacation while Foxwell NT510 was held in post office till my return. Communicating via email with office I assume is in China caused a setup delay plus at 73 a gadget that displays dysfunctional items is not easy for me to master. It shows about 5 faults that look logical but I need a flow chart to figure it out. One was console switch that I thought might be an issue. Console switch where?
    Shiftier knob ? Traction control button on panel mixed in with climate and radio controls? I have not figured out how to save these yet for further viewing. It seemed harmless to erase the switch fault but that did nothing, I stopped there. I did similar work when analyzing network issues but without a manual its kinda like shooting with eyes closed. I like the tool, easy to handle but don't know enough about it to move forward yet. The thing names every FCA US product but Chrysler! I chose Dodge and an automatic analysis showed Chrysler.
     
  8. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    I usually record the faults and the freezeframe/snapshot info when the fault occurred before I erase them the first time to see if they come back. The ones that don't erase or come back right away are likely 'active' faults and not 'stored' faults.
    At this level of service, you would want the factory diagnostic manual and wiring diagrams. Service information from TechAuthority may seem expensive, but I have to consider it a 'tool cost'.
    You could try a service manual vendor, but any copyrighted factory info is pirated and could be wrong, incomplete or misleading. Like generic DIY manuals, it's a crapshoot. If you can solve this issue, the tool cost could pay for itself with this one repair.
    What codes are you seeing? The 5 codes may be pointing to one issue. See the Possible Causes list.
     
  9. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    IMG_20190914_154307-1.jpg
    Over whelmed by reader at first then I erased the codes and picked through menu items that would pertain finally came up with left rear wheel sensor out of range. Took a while but now I have a better handle on what this thing can do. I did have to sit in the car for a few hours playing with it. Now it owes me one more repair and I will be ahead of the purchase price. I can use this on my Challenger my sons Ram, neighbors 500 and a bunch of FCA stuff. Lifetime upgrades. Also came with BMW in there too!
     
    #8 jerseyjoe, Sep 14, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2019
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  10. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    Dealerships around here are loaded with new people to the industry, help does not go beyond the screen. That said with age my trouble shooting skills are fadeing. Where is the best online place to look up the sensor part number? My hunch is the sensor is cooked because last experiance was intermittent. Is there an easy way to clean the tone wheel?
     
  11. AllanC

    AllanC Well-Known Member

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    Two sites I use to find a Mopar part number: RockAuto.com and any online , discount Mopar parts site.

    At RockAuto you enter your specific model year, make of vehicle and then select brakes. Under brakes select ABS wheel speed sensor. You will see a list of aftermarket and Mopar sensors for your vehicle. The Mopar listing always gives the part #. For your vehicle there are multiple listings and you have to select by drivetrain, etc which is correct for your specific vehicle. Here is a sample listing.

    upload_2019-10-13_11-22-20.png


    For a discount Mopar parts vendor, just do a Google search on "discount Mopar parts" and you will get a list. Select any one and enter year, make and model and then drill down to find your specific part under brakes --> antilock brakes. Typically there will be an exploded diagram of the assembly and you will find your specific part. Item #17. Here is a sample listing from Anti-Lock Brakes for 2015 Chrysler 300 | MOPAR Discounted Parts (at https://www.mopardiscountedparts.com/v-2015-chrysler-300--s--3-6l-v6-gas/brakes--anti-lock-brakes )

    upload_2019-10-13_11-23-43.png

    upload_2019-10-13_11-24-20.png
     
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  12. 85lebaront2

    Level 2 Supporter

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    At least you can still get the parts. I have a neighbor with a 1997 Ram 1500 4WD, his right front sensor is bad and it was a 1 year only part. Haven't even been able to find one in a junkyard.
     
  13. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    I'm experiencing the same with my '06 Ram 1500. The tachometer has a mind of its own some days. The fix is to either re-tin the joints in the cluster ($75-$150) which is a communications module for all the computers and stores the VIN and mileage. Or replace the cluster and have the VIN and mileage programmed in. The cluster ($400) is no longer available from MoPar and up until recently had been available at Rockauto, but is now "out of stock". Used clusters are available but from what I understand the VIN/mileage cannot be reprogrammed.
     
  14. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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  15. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    Glad to see good stuff coming out of this thread, hope people will be able to search it. I am finding Mopargiant and Rockauto good for online help. Hope I can zero in on the part when wife comes back with the car so I can get the VIN.
     
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  16. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    I appreciate everyone's help ordered cable from Moparpartsgiant, $18.08 good price for genuine MOPAR stuff, shipping $10. maybe I could have gotten it for a more reasonable price at the dealer but vehicle is registered at that site so I have a place to search and will be armed with price info.

    Again thank you all for your help and you ain't rid of me till a higher power calls.
     
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  17. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    With winter on the way the wife gave the car downtime long enough to install left rear abs cable. Found I could do it without removing the wheel. Took all of 15 minutes! Hardest part was separating the connector near gas tank, it was easy to access but stuck solid. Squirt of WD 40 did the trick. Blew out the connector with canned air even though it was spotless. This is the second one and no dielectric grease or seal on the connection! Not sure if this caused the failure. The tip of the sensor looked like water could cause an issue as there was a definate line on the face. Anyhow @ 73 I find its easier to work under a vehicle then on top! :D
     
  18. jerseyjoe

    jerseyjoe Plymouth Makes It

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    Right front ABS sensor again! Just replaced it a year ago. Due to previous replacements I sprayed the sensor with WD40 two days before replacement procedure. The sensor would not come out! finally put a pair of vice grips on it and after 30 minutes of twisting it finally came out. Spent another 30 minutes cleaning the hole for the sensor to remove any rust. The new sensor would not go in all the way! Visual inspection showed the old and new were the same but the old one would slide in and out easily, new stuck halfway in. Seems it was stuck on a guide ridge halfway up the side of the sensor. More cleaning and a coating of silicone grease halfway up the sensor it seated! Seems water was getting in the sensor hole! Car feels a lot better than it did except for a bump on the 1-2 shift first time out.

    Hope this helps someone else out.

    C U again Aug 2021!
     
    #17 jerseyjoe, Aug 11, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
  19. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie Valued Member
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    Lots of times pulling the 20 amp IOD fuse for like 30 seconds and then reinstalling cures a lot of these weird problems.
     
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