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2015 Dodge Caravan Engine Swap

Discussion in 'Repairs, Maintenance, Help' started by Btrowdy, Mar 25, 2020.

  1. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    I just swapped my dodge caravan engine 3.6l. Before trying to start the new engine, I placed a DB2 reader on the thing only to find 8 messages. That’s a whole lot of codes. I’m pretty sure every wire and plug is connected to the new engine. Any idea why all these codes came up. I tired clearing them but they come right back.

    P0300
    P0123
    P0222
    P0108
    P0340
    P0335
    P0345
    P0365
     
  2. Best Answer:
    Post #17 by ImperialCrown, Mar 28, 2020 at 2:22 PM
  3. voiceofstl

    voiceofstl Well-Known Member

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    a 2015...what happen to the original engine?
     
  4. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    Injector stuck open and filed a cylinder with fuel. Hydro locked which bent a rod.
     
  5. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Maybe the sensors are telling the truth? These are APPS (throttle pedal position sensor), cam and crank position sensor codes. Diagnose for these first. The misfire and MAP codes may be from running poorly?
    Are the plug tips wet or carbon fouled? The injector leakdown issue has been resolved for this new engine, right?
    Was the replacement engine from the same year with the same VIN letter? Would it be possible for left and right bank cam sensor connectors to get swapped by mistake?
     
  6. djsamuel

    Level 2 Supporter

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    I agree with what you state, but how would he get those codes before trying to start the engine? I am assuming the codes from before would have been lost during battery disconnect. Perhaps he should try clearing the codes and see if they return before trying to start?
     
  7. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Some of the cam/crank position codes could appear during cranking.
    The Misfire and MAP codes could only appear while running or while trying to run.
     
  8. djsamuel

    Level 2 Supporter

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    I think some clarification is needed to see if the engine was cranked. I'm just wondering where the codes could have come from since he says he read the codes before trying to start the engine.
     
  9. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    He says that he tried clearing them, but they came right back.
    I don't believe that a battery disconnect will clear codes like on older vehicles. They would need to be cleared with a good OBDII code reader or a scan tool.
     
  10. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    Thanks for all the responses. I suppose it’s possible a sensor got mixed up, although the wiring harness really only paths to certain spots and seems to be connected in the right locations.

    All injectors are from the new motor. I provided the wrecker my VIN, both vehicles are supposed to be from the same year/model. The engines look identical.

    The vehicle I have not cranked. The starter just goes click but does not turn the engine.

    I can turn the engine over at the fly wheel or harmonic balancer.

    yes I cleared the codes but they come straight back. P0300 was there before the engine swap. Outside of the hydro lock and bent rod, car was good up until the injector filled the cylinder with fuel (old engine)
     
  11. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    If P0300 was there before the swap and the vehicle has not been cranked over since, are you able to erase it?
    If you are just getting a click from the starter, recheck the grounds, harnesses and connectors. None of those PCM codes should prevent the engine from cranking over. Perhaps there are other codes in other modules that might prevent cranking?
     
  12. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    VIN on vehicle 2C4RDGDGXFRnnnnnn
    VIN from new engine 2C4RDGDGFRnnnnnn
     
  13. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    Looks like my original was an X and the new one is an G? Does the mean I need a new computer? I can’t imaging having to pull this engine again.
     
  14. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    Regarding VIN, looks like my original was an X and the new one is a G! Does the mean I need a new computer? I can’t imaging having to pull this engine again.
     
  15. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Both are a 2015 'G' engine according to the supplied VIN 8th position. 2015 is 'F' (10th position). 3.6L reman long blocks were the same from 2014-2018.
    The 'new' VIN is wrong. The 9th position 'check digit' is missing in the 2nd VIN. It should be an X or 0-9.

    There is a tech tip in the Mopar reman engine lookup. See the VVT actuator replacement line?:

    Part Number: R8259595AA
    Tech Tip Part Description: Transmission,Trans Oil Pump,Torque Converter, Flexplate, Rear Seal, Engine
    Tech Tip Description:
    NOTE: FOR ALL PROMASTER (VF) 3.6L/62TE EQUIPPED VEHICLES: IF THE TRANSMISSION BRACKET TO THE TRANSMISSION CASE FASTENERS ARE REMOVED DURING SERVICING, THE FASTENERS (Part Number 06511385A$) ARE ONE TIME USEAGE, AND MUST BE REPLACED, AND PROPERLY TORQUED TO 105 NM.

    Vehicles built prior to 10/23/2015 requires Service Kit PN 68461214AA; includes Transmission Isolator PN 68264483AA, and Adaptation Bracket 68264479AA, Fastener Service Kit PN 68329056AA. Vehicles built after on or after 10/23/2015 will require only the Fastener Service Kit PN 68329056AA If the vehicle you are repairing has a crack in the flex plate inspect the transmission dowel pin alignment holes in the transmission. If they are damaged the transmission should be replaced to prevent further damage to the transmission/flexplate due the inability to properly align the engine to the transmission during the repair. If vehicle won�t move and has noise/leaking from transmission bell housing area, check transmission pump bushing. If pump bushing is scored or damaged, replace the pump assembly as opposed to transmission.

    If vehicle is jerking/slipping with MIL code(s) P0740 or P2764, check TCC Solenoid operation. If TCC Solenoid is ok, the codes are indicative of a torque converter failure. Replace the torque converter.

    When replacing the long block engine, the VVT Actuator`s PN 05184101A* must also be replaced.

    Engineering is requesting additional information when the long block engine is replaced due to thrust washer failures. Contact (redacted).

    See 'vehicle fitment' here:
    Long Block Engine, Remanufactured R8259595AB | My Mopar Parts (at https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-long-block-engine-remanufactured-r8259595ab?c=az0x )
     
  16. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    Yes you are right I missed a number in there.

    existing car VIN
    2C4RDGDGXFRnnnnnn
    Replacement VIN
    2C4RDGDG0FRnnnnnn

    let me process the rest of your response. Thanks so much for responding!
     
  17. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    I read the information you provided here and checked the part you advised to replace. The part and bolts don’t look familiar. We pulled the engine out the top, leaving the transmission in place, we just separated at the bell housing. The transmission was never dropped out of the vehicle. We did however replace the Axel seal into the transmission as it started to leak (forgot the engine mount at the back and lifted the axel which damaged the retainer spring)
     
  18. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Is it possible that the flexplate or crankshaft position sensor got damaged maneuvering the engine into place?
    The used engine should be compatible for your vehicle. Check for broken plastic sensors.
     
    valiant67 likes this.
  19. Btrowdy

    Btrowdy New Member

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    I don’t see any broken sensors.
    Starter motor was dead. The sprocket would deploy but not spin. Replaced the starter motor. Engine starts now but runs rough and puts out a lot of exhaust. I only ran it for a few seconds before shutting it off again.
     
  20. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Check some spark plug tips. Are they wet, dry or black, etc?
    Did this donor engine sit for a while in the yard before you got it? Was there a hood on the vehicle?
    Did it run before they pulled it?
     
  21. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

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    A good general rule of thumb when swapping engines is to do a tune-up on the one being installed PRIOR to installing it. I'm guessing you did that , right? New belts are also a good idea, not that a bad belt would cause what you're experiencing.
     
    tomit likes this.

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