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Discussion in 'Other classic cars' started by saltydog, Jan 28, 2015.
Interesting, I will check it out.
I check the cap yesterday and it is a 16psi.
So a few things that I will get working on, getting the timing better set and new cap with 14psi. Hoping that will help. Later I will look into the Stat.
So I back out the timing a bit and drove the car this weekend(105-107temps) and the no over heating. Now she did run how, but boiling over.
Still not a 100% happy with the timing, idle is jumpy but once RPM's are up, runs so smooth. Ugh, I really need to just buy a new distributor.
You still have points in her, don't you? Loose bushings can do that. I'm not real clear on your first two sentences, can you elaborate, please?
Sorry about that! My hands go slower than my brain!
Anyhow the car was pinging badly, so I retarded the timing a bit. Mind you I dont have a timing light, so I was just guessing at this. However the car is no longer pinging.
And yes she she till has points. Many have said to ditch the point and go electronic. I may just do that. I am going end up taking to a shop, as my dad is now working full time and does not have the time mess with this old car.
Without a timing light, you can do the following to get within a degree or two. Rotate the engine manually in the running direction and bring it up to the timing mark. DO NOT PASSENGER or you need to go around again. Back (retard) the distributor until the points are definitely closed, pull coil wire from the distributor cap and place near a ground (don't recommend holding it unless you like a big shock), turn on the ignition and slowly advance the distributor until you have a spark. May need to repeat a couple of times to be sure of the spot. Tighten the clamp and turn off the ignition n. You should be very close to the intended setting.
Finally had some time to do this and the car seems to run a bit better, but idle is still a bit jumpy and WOT it sputters/bogs. Otherwise runs great, been driving it about 2-3 times a week.
Strong stream from accelerator pump? Assuming engine bogging even when hot.
Yes the engine will bog/sputter at WOT no matter the engine temp.
Usually pertains to lean condition but weak spark can do it too. Do you have a good ohmmeter? If so, with all wires including the condenser disconnected from the points, what is the reading across the points? Movable arm to outside of distributor? Both tests with points closed.
So my dad had some time to mess with the car and we have strong ignition, so leaves us with just the carb. It appears to be the accelerator pump, it is very inconsistent. So going to have to rebuild or replace the carb.
You might be able to replace just the accelerator pump without having to rebuild the entire carb, though you'll probably also have to replace the top gasket. It's been a while since I've looked at an AFB, but I had one on a '65 Monaco, and one connection to the accelerator pump had 3 holes where a rod went through. Said rod was supposed to be in the middle hole, but was instead in the bottom one. Moving it to the middle hole fixed its problem.
However, if you're running E10, the entire carb might have to be cleaned and reconditioned. After doing so, you might consider an additive to neutralize the ethanol's corrosive effects. Here are a few recommendations:
What is the Best Ethanol Fuel Treatment? (at http://www.fuelsystemguide.com/what-is-the-best-ethanol-fuel-treatment/ )