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63 - 64 Chrysler

Discussion in 'Other classic cars' started by saltydog, Jan 28, 2015.

  1. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Online, I only found detailed photos of GM applications. I have a 1964 FSM at home that I can consult, but I won't be there until next week. It shouldn't be complicated.

    BTW, I like how you're sharing written and photographic progress reports. You're putting quality efforts into this restoration.
     
  2. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, that would be most helpful.

    I have been searching and have not found much, but I had no idea how many different types of throttle linkages Chrysler used in the 60's :eek:

    Thanks, I like to share as I too like to see progress of restorations from others. It gives me motivation.:)
     
  3. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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  4. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    The only illustration of the 4-bbl throttle linkage in the 1964 Chrysler FSM is for the Imperial (page 14-37). Since it also used the 413 engine, it should be similar to yours. I don't currently have access to a scanner, nor does my laptop have that software, so I'll try to describe it as best as I can until I can post that drawing.

    It shows a spring hooked into a bracket toward the front of the engine on the driver's side (whether the bracket is on the manifold or block isn't shown). The spring is hooked onto the extension from the throttle where the accelerator cable goes, between the accelerator cable fitting. The adjustable bar going down to the transmission is on the ball at the edge of the throttle extension. There's another bracket toward the rear of the engine on the driver's side where the accelerator cable is connected and the transmission lever goes through; looks like it's bolted to the manifold. The throttle extension has a bolt going through it where the accelerator cable and spring are attached. The bolt is held in place with a nut on the driver's side and a pin on the passenger side, and has the ball for the transmission lever on the nut side. This looks like it for the hardware.

    It also contains instructions for adjustments (I omitted the numbers within the instructions, as they won't make sense without the illustration):

    1. Assemble transmission control linkage parts in place but do not assemble transmission rod ball socket to ball end.

    2. Apply a thin film of MS 3701 lubricant to the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket.

    3. Disconnect choke at carburetor or block choke valve in full open position, open throttle slightly to release fast idle cam, then return carburetor to curb idle.

    4. Hold the transmission lever forward against its stop and adjust the length of the transmission rod by means of the threaded adjustment at the upper end. The ball socket must line up directly with the ball end without exerting any forward force on the rod. The ball socket must be at the same height as the ball end when checking rod length.

    5. Lengthen rod by one turn of the adjustment.

    6. Assemble ball socket to ball end. When the carburetor throttle is opened, the transmission should begin its travel at the same time with no vertical movement of the lever or vertical movement of the rod in the lever.

    7. Assemble remainder of the linkage parts in place. With the cable clamp nut loose, adjust the position of the cable housing ferrule in the clamp so that all slack is removed from the cable with the carburetor at curb idle. To remove slack from the cable, move the ferrule in the clamp in the direction away from the carburetor lever.

    8. Back off ferrule ½”. This provides ½” free play between the rear surface of the accelerator bracket and the front edge of the accelerator shaft lever. Tighten clamp nut.

    9. Route cable so that it does not interfere with the transmission rod throughout its full travel.

    10. Connect choke rod or remove blocking fixture.
     
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  5. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the detail write up! It will be most helpful.
     
  6. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    The bracket you're looking for has a u-shaped opening where the transmission lever goes. It looks like the accelerator cable is bolted on, though I'm not sure if it connects to the bracket or manifold. Either way, it looks like it goes through the bracket and attaches to it somehow. If the trans lever is adjusted properly, the bracket should be more of a guide, as the two should probably never touch. If you don't have it, maybe you can find it at a good vintage junkyard. Perhaps someone else can help you determine what model years it crosses, and if it's also used on the 383 and 361 engines.
     
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  7. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Ok so we could not find a bracket, so we fabricated one using a Ford alternator bracket. We found a nice brass bushing and it all fit just right.

    Here are some pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Your ingenuity is impressive. I was looking at the bracket on the manifold, not the transmission. Have you got it running?
     
  9. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Not yet, it seems that once you touch one thing, something else has an issue. The wiring was a mess, the PO had an unnecessary ground wire to the alternator. For every 4 bolts, there was one Metric...you can see the pattern.

    We need a few small things: Stud for the intake manifold/carb, stud for the kick down linage on the trans, engine ground strap, battery hold down and the correct bolt for the trans mount.

    Then get it started and tuned. Slowly getting there!
     
  10. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    dog; nice job on the bracket.

    For the steering wheel: I have used a 2 part epoxy that is milky when mixed and turns clear when it sets. Different setting times available. Experimenting with "flakes" and dyes might get your wheel lookin' good.
     
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  11. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    She lives! Well sort of, on the test drive the fuel pump died...ugh!! This car is out to kill me!!


    [​IMG]
     
  12. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Long ago, I had a '66 Fury that had some rust in the gas tank. I installed a second fuel filter just before the fuel pump to keep the rust from getting into the pump. Something you might consider. Ideally, the tank and lines should have been replaced (or at least cleaned), but I didn't plan to keep the car for long (and I didn't).
     
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  13. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    We did blow the lines and it all seemed clean. We did have a hard time getting the pump to prime. Just would not get the fuel moving, so we pressurized the tank to get fuel moving, once the fuel was moving all seemed good, no debris. We started the car several times throughout the day with no issues.
     
  14. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    So the few issues I need to resolve:
    1. Fuel
    2. Transmission will not shift into 3rd
    3. Odd electrical issues(brake lights only work with the ignition "on")

    Otherwise, I think she can be driven. Brakes well, suspension is smooth. So this should be fun!
     
  15. pt006

    pt006 Active Member

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    fuel; it could be a porous or cracked rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump. Or a weak spring.

    trans; I,d check to verify that the shift linkage is adjusted properly.

    brake light; somebody messed with the wiring.

    good luck! It sounds like your almost home.
     
  16. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, sometimes the fuel pump will just give up. It reads like you did what you could.

    Though I agree with pt about checking the linkage first, the trans problem could be internal. I had the same problem with a Chevy truck; it would shift ok when cold, but would never find Drive after it was warmed up. It had a cracked pressure plate. I had a similar problem with the Fury; it would always miss 2nd. Its neutral safety switch was loose; after tightening it, no more trans problem. When checking the linkage, you might also check that all of the switches and bolts on the trans are torqued properly.
     
  17. 68RT

    68RT Well-Known Member

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    Disconnect both lines on the fuel pump. Hold finger over the intake port and just crank the engine a couple of times. you should feel a vacuum and hold it there for maybe 20 seconds and you still should have that vacuum when you take your finger away. If you have vacuum, then check the outlet port the same way, you should have 3-4 psi that holds for the same time. that will check out the two check valves in the pump and will show that the diaphragm is not SEVERELY RUPTURED. if it passes the test, you may have a pinhole between the tank and the pump that lets air in and allows the fuel to drain back to the tank.
     
  18. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    Got the car running! New fuel pump did the trick, just to be safe we pulled the tank, it was surprisingly clean.

    Got the kick down linkage adjusted, trans is now shifting into 3rd, however we noticed that the drive line was not centered. Turned out to be the ball & trunnion, lucky we had another one.

    I am hopeful that we can drive the car to the car show in Nan Nuys on Saturday. Will post updates.
     
  19. Scrounge

    Scrounge Well-Known Member

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    Good work! After everything you've been through, just test-driving it and returning home without incident probably gave you a sense of accomplishment.

    Your car might be the only one of its body style at the car show. Too often, they're forgotten Mopars, and they should be remembered.
     
  20. saltydog

    saltydog Well-Known Member

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    So we are still having issues with the Trans not shifting into 3rd gear, we have adjusted the shift cable and the kick down linkage and so far no change.

    Thoughts?
     

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