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86 Laser automatic transmission issue - locked in low ?

Discussion in 'Daytona and Laser' started by Laser86, Apr 27, 2019.

  1. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    ok, so it appears that, maybe, my low speed band is slightly sticking or something ... linkage seems to be adjusted properly, downshift linkage does not appear to be sticking

    this is what the car does .... without knowing anything about transmissions I am going to try and describe this the best I can

    park - transmission actually ' locks ' the car in place, so to me this verifies that the linkage is adjusted properly, however, there seems to be a slight strain on the engine when applying pressure to the throttle, acts as if the car is in drive with the brakes on and applying throttle

    reverse - will not go into reverse, car seems to be ' stuck ' in place and will not move one direction or the other, as if both forward and reverse are engaging at the same time, but that is just a guess

    neutral - car WILL start in neutral, this again, to me, verifies the linkage is adjusted properly .... however, the car will start in neutral and also drive forward in neutral, but it will not shift gears while driving in neutral

    drive - car seems to operate and shift somewhat normal, hitting all three gears

    second - car seems to operate somewhat normal, did verify if it shifts from 1 st to 2 nd

    low - car seems to operate somewhat normal, stays in low

    roughly 103,000 miles on transmission, believe it is original to car, but then again, that is just a guess

    any ideas ? are transmissions even available for this car ? really do not want to drop a transmission is this car and not sure if I would : ( ..... but it is what it is I suppose ...
     
    #1 Laser86, Apr 27, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2019
  2. 85lebaront2

    Level 2 Supporter

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    It sounds to me as if your forward clutch pack is stuck in the engaged position. This will give you all forward gears and the other symptoms you describe (engine load in Park, moves forward in Neutral, locked up in Reverse). Only solution is a rebuild or replacement with either used or remanufactured unit.

    Most transmission shops should be able to work on it, it is a pretty simple transaxle to repair.
     
  3. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    if anything I would probably replace the transmission myself, how do I go about identifying the transmission ?

    any suggestions on where to look for a replacement or is that just something I will have to check out locally ?
     
  4. 85lebaront2

    Level 2 Supporter

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    To my knowledge there are only 2 possibilities turbo or non-turbo. If you have the XE model with all the bells and whistles, it will have a pressure switch on the transmission that you will need to keep. Other than the turbo/non-turbo there are different final drive ratios, a different one would only effect performance and fuel economy as the speedometer gets it's information from the right axle inboard end. Transaxle is an A413, as far a physically fitting they were used for a number of years, yours will have a 4 bolt torque converter as the number of bolts changed in either 1984 or 1985.

    Changing it can be a pain, the transaxle case sits at an angle in the vehicle making it difficult to remove/replace without a good transmission jack and a way to have the car high enough for everything to clear. You also need a way to support the engine as two of the three mounts are either on or through bolted to the transaxle. When you change it, be sure to flush the cooler as it will probably have some crap in it. FCA is now recommending their new ATF+4 for even older vehicles as it has a friction enhancing additive.
     
  5. GLHS60

    GLHS60 Well-Known Member

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    Any 3 speed automatic from a 1986-1995 2.2 or 2.5 will work. (Omni-Horizon 1988-90)

    Ones with an electrical plug beside the dipstick are lockup convertor models.

    Most, but not all lockup were behind TBI Engines, Turbo Engines were non lockup until 1990-91.

    Lockup and non lockup transaxles interchange but the converter must march the transaxle.

    Thanks
    Randy
     
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  6. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    called a local bone yard ...... nothing local, apparently they are hooked into a network with other bone yards out of state, gave me a few options ...

    50,000 miles $ 350 ... ( from Kentucky I believe )

    75,000 miles $300

    comes with torque converter

    but that was just one phone call I made, anyone have any experience trying to track down a transmission for this older car ?
    .... obviously rolling the dice, but the 50,000 one seems the better way to go, if it is 50,000 miles and was taken care of .....

    so what is involved installing a transmission in this car ? can't justify spending the type of money it would cost having someone else do this

    car still has annoying issues I have not had the time to repair ( strut noise, power limited icon showing .. other than that engine is solid with low miles ( around 55,000 ), entire suspension is fairly new to include remanufactured rack ) so I seldom drive it, still has around 102,000 miles on the body ... maybe one of these decades I will get this car drive able ... it drives, just not as nice as it should ... just don't have the heart to junk her ....
     
  7. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Back around 2000 I had to replace the original A413 transmission in my '92 Acclaim (bought new) at 191K miles. Kinda of long story so bear with me. The 2-3 shift failed (worn clutches). Found a used transmission at a local boneyard (30 day warranty). Had a local shop install it. Total cost $500 ($250 for the transmission/ $250 labor), but the first one they put in had the same failure two days after I had it installed. Back to the shop. Got another one from the same boneyard. This one was bad before they ever lowered the lift - was going backwards in drive. Shop had a '86 LeBaron GTS with a blown engine sitting out back, but the transmission (A413 non-lockup) was known to be good. Third times the charm! That A413 was still working perfectly when I parked the car at 302K miles due to a leaky heater core.

    Boneyards don't necessarily check to see if the transmission is working so make sure you get some sort of warranty even if it is only 30 days.

    I wouldn't want to venture changing out a FWD transmission. I've dropped a RWD transmission to change out the clutch back in the day ('79 Monza), but that was relatively simple compared to a FWD transmission. It only cost me $250 labor to have the transmission changed out in the Acclaim almost 20 years ago. Today it would probably be $400+.

    At a minimum you will have to raise the front end, remove wheels, brakes (?), CV shafts, linkage, and then unbolt and lower the transmission. May need to mark where the engine is centered. Then its a matter of installing the replacement and reconnecting everything. Unless you are well versed and have the necessary tools I would have a shop do the work.
     
  8. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    As usual the car is just sitting again, bright side is it does not rust just sitting I suppose. Never followed through with the transmission, but thinking of putting her in the back yard and swapping the transmission out myself, roll of the dice getting a transmission from a bone yard and you are right imagine it would be a bit of work. On the brighter side at least I got the wiper arm / bushings fixed right this past year.
     
  9. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    The car will definitely rust while it is sitting, especially if it is sitting over bare ground like in a yard.

    You might find that if you do the removal and installation a transmission rebuild might be fairly inexpensive.
     
  10. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    Rust has been very minor over the last many years sitting in drive.

    What is involved in removing and installing a transmission in this car ?
     
  11. valiant67

    valiant67 ...

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    General description:
    1) Remove axle shafts
    2) Disconnect transmission linkage
    3) Support transmission
    4) Unbolt transmission from engine and mounts.
    5) Lower transmission to ground.
    6) If needed, raise the car body some to have clearance to pull the transmission out from under the car.
     
  12. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    Sounds fairly simple.

    My thoughts too were that the car would / could rust if on / above grass. Maybe I will look into this further, have a good friend who used to rebuild transmissions, thinking this might be a fairly easy transmission to rebuild.
     
  13. Doug D

    Doug D Virginia Gentleman

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    Rust will form no matter where a vehicle "sits". Granted it may rust faster sitting outside, but even garaged, corrosion may still take place albeit at a slower pace.
     
  14. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Rust never sleeps. :D
     
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  15. Laser86

    Laser86 Member

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    I think everybody understands what causes steel to rust, vehicle has shown very little increase in rust while not being driven, if the vehicle was being driven I imagine the vehicle would show significantly more signs of rusting, which was the point.
     
    #15 Laser86, Oct 23, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2019
  16. chuzz

    chuzz Well-Known Member

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    Careful, IC. Neil Young may accuse you of plagiarism.
     
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  17. ImperialCrown

    ImperialCrown Moderator
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    Ooops. I forgot to add this:
    DISCLAIMER: I hereby declare that I do not own the rights to this music/song.
    All rights belong to the owner. No Copyright Infringement Intended.
     
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