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90 Imperial Odo Doesnt show

Discussion in 'EEK! - Every Extended-K Car' started by ddomin2002, Sep 18, 2017.

  1. ddomin2002

    ddomin2002 New Member

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    Hello!

    I just purchased a 90 imperial thats fully loaded. electronics package, air ride suspension etc.

    the two problems i'm having is that the digital cluster works but the gas gauge is always showing empty and the odometer doesn't light up. (the asterisk is lit) when the cluster comes on at start up it does light up and goes through the test but the odo but goes blank after.

    any ideas where to start?

    Thanks!
     
  2. voiceofstl

    voiceofstl Well-Known Member

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    Love the 90's Imperial. I hope that air ride holds up. can't help the digital dash,,sorry.
     
  3. goair99

    goair99 Active Member

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    Congrats! I had a '92 Imperial, but had to junk her due to non existent ABS parts... I hope she holds up.
     
  4. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    Welcome to Allpar. On the early ones, the odometer memory chip (16-pin DIP) was in an IC socket so that it could be serviced at the dealer level. The later ones had the chip soldered into the board.
    If yours is an early one, is the chip even there? The asterisk means that the chip has been replaced or is defective.
    The digit-check at start-up may be handled by the segment driver circuitry and the odo chip may not have to be in place.
    It does have a polarity. The dot is pin # 1.
    Fuel gauge testing is in the service manual. If you briefly ground the tank sender wire, does the dash gauge ramp up to full?
     
  5. Oklahoma Wolf

    Oklahoma Wolf What sanity?

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    Sounds like the cluster isn't registering the CCD bus. This could be an issue with the wiring or connectors, but if the cluster intermittently starts working again, the problem is likely bad solder joints in the cluster. Could also be a BCM issue, as that is where the mileage is stored.

    Had this happen on my '92 Imperial to its new cluster. The fix was to work the cluster PCB over with my hot air solder rework station. Symptoms were gauges dropping to zero on the highway one at a time including speedo, then the mileage going blank with flashing asterisk.

    The BCM may have taken on water - it's in a bad spot behind the passenger kick panel. If the cowl drains plug, I find on these cars water comes in the HVAC opening, runs down the passenger side, and gets right into the BCM causing a bunch of odd issues.
     
  6. ddomin2002

    ddomin2002 New Member

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    opened up the cluster, nothing is missing and all chips are soldered to the board, nothing that is removable.
     
  7. ddomin2002

    ddomin2002 New Member

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    Does anyone have the ability to send me the instructions from the service manual? or at least tell me best location and easiest way to access the sender wire to try grounding it?
     
  8. ImperialCrown

    Level III Supporter

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    I don't have the 1990 service manual, but 1992 may be similar in many (but not all) respects. You might want to get the correct service manual for the year in order to avoid chasing 'wrong' information.
    The free 1992 AC-AY service information is on the oskin.ru website. 8W is the wiring diagram chapter. The AC-AY body wiring section begins on p. 8W-337. The fuel tank sender is on sheet 36 which is p. 8W-381.
    The fuel tank sender is on top at the rear of the tank and is a Dk Blue wire (circuit G4). The connector itself is shown in the dashed-line inset.
    You may need to drop the tank down a bit to access it. This is best done with a nearly empty tank and the tank support hardware as free from rusty threads as possible. It gets frustrating if a stud breaks.
    The 3 volume service manual set cover all domestic 1990 FWD cars and would look like this:
    90_fwd_car_3v__61927.1456343773.450.450.JPG
    There are additional Powertrain, Body and Chassis Diagnostic procedure handbooks that cover the more specialized EFI, BCM and ABS areas of the vehicle:

    1990ChryslerPDP33LEFI.jpg

    __1_thumb200.jpg

    !B2VdJ3g!2k~$(KGrHqQOKkQE)Oi5BMnLBMiDjcuk,w~~_35.JPG

    Binder condition isn't that important if you just want the information within. They can stay with the car and should be considered a 'tool cost'.
    By grounding the wire, the gauge should peg full when you turn the ignition switch to run. Don't leave it pegged for too long, just enough to verify it.
    If it doesn't peg the dash indicator, the problem is in the BCM or the cluster or the wiring in between the components.
     

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